Topic: CB350F oil pressure gauge

[Calumjs]

Hey, i'm wondering where i can hook up an oil pressure gauge to my cb350F, doesnt have to be a permanent one just so i can see whats going on!

thanks

[robvangulik]

There is an outlet of the main oil gallery dirctly under the ignition cover, you can screw a pressure gauge inthere..

[strynboen]

or take aut the  elektric oil pressure indikator..and use the 1/8" thred..to take" messeuries " aut..just use a manometer from a kompressor/air tool...2-5 bar pressure are fine...most at kold/heigh rpm

[Bodi]

For temporary you can remove the pressure switch for the oil light, as strynboen says. The switch is on the oil pump, you will probably need an elbow setup to get a gauge to connect.
The other way is to drill and tap a 1/8 NPT thread in the right side oil gallery plug as Calumjs suggests. You can just get a 1/8 NPT plug and put that in when you're done. Some oil will come out of the gallery when the gallery plug is removed, but it pretty much drains dry in a few hours with the engine shut off - if you remove the plug immediately on shutdown quite a bit will pour out.

[Deltarider]

so i can see whats going on

Why, do you expect anything bad?

[Calumjs]

thanks for all the advice!

so i can see whats going on

Why, do you expect anything bad?

i purchased the bike from someone who had recently done a 'top end rebuild', but when going over the bike most of it was either loose or the wrong way around so i suspected the engine work wasn't going to be great. so i have done 400kms and it has drank over 1 liter of oil. My oil pressure light is coming on at idle, and the last time i took it out it was coming on when it wasn't just sitting at the lights so i have stopped riding it, id like to hook up a gauge and see whats pressure i'm actually getting.

[Deltarider]

Kind of a stupid question, don't you think? For an oil-cooled bike, knowing the oil pressure and temp is not only relevant, it's a very good idea. I have changed my gauges and indicators to include an electronic temp and pressure gauge for this very reason. Low pressure is nearly as bad too high temp, perhaps worse. Enough pressure to extinguish the light isn't necessarily enough pressure to support the engine at prime health.

Don't you think your reaction is a bit over the top? If you'd done a search you would have found that I long time ago did a well ment suggestion for an engineguard, one that is safe and will allow you to keep your eyes on the road. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44306.msg463126#msg463126
Maybe you like to share with us what kind of temp and pressure gauge you have. Pics are welcome too and... believe me there are no stupid questions. Stupid answers plenty.

[Bodi]

A third of the oil in 400kms is a lot. Is there smoke? Is it dripping out?
Check top end oiling, there should be oil visibly flying around at idle if you look in the valve adjusting caps at the 1 and 4 exhaust valves. There's a restrictor orifice at each end of the head to limit oil flow to the valvegear (to keep main the oil pressure up) and if either is blocked by debris you will fry that end of the cam is short order. If either orifice was left out on reassembly you will have a lot of oil up top but not enough pressure below to properly lubricate the bearings.
The orifice valves go through a fairly narrow bit of head gasket and having oil leaking either out to drip down the fins or in to the 1 or 4 cylinder is not so uncommon.

[strynboen]

the elektric oil indikator goes often bad...even the extern gauges,are not bullet proof...so the best /safest thing to do,,are hook a extern gauge on...test............and pull it....it overkill to drive vith to many instruments. they give false safty feeling..this lights for oil pressure are fine...but thek the pressure kontakt(feeler)  for funktion..once..now you have some failfunktion..light at idel..

[Deltarider]

Is that it? No pics? No nothing? Some wonderful contribution!

[Deltarider]

I like the word 'sage' coming from your mouth.

As for responding to your request for documentation on my particular setup, I chose to ignore it as Ive done with your obtuse question.

Sure wonder what you will do, if somebody else asks.
Oh and if you forgot, here is the obtuse question I asked:

Why, do you expect anything bad?

Others may judge.

[strynboen]

hope you got the right pressure in the 350 engine...the pressure in this thread...are gone ;)have a goood sleep its now 22,12..gooodnight from denmark

[Calumjs]

A third of the oil in 400kms is a lot. Is there smoke? Is it dripping out?
Check top end oiling, there should be oil visibly flying around at idle if you look in the valve adjusting caps at the 1 and 4 exhaust valves. There's a restrictor orifice at each end of the head to limit oil flow to the valvegear (to keep main the oil pressure up) and if either is blocked by debris you will fry that end of the cam is short order. If either orifice was left out on reassembly you will have a lot of oil up top but not enough pressure below to properly lubricate the bearings.
The orifice valves go through a fairly narrow bit of head gasket and having oil leaking either out to drip down the fins or in to the 1 or 4 cylinder is not so uncommon.

Thanks buddy that's great info, I'll see if it's oiling uptop, if there is expensive oil when inspections those little orifices could be missing. Any other ideas as to why I am getting low oil pressure? I know it could be a number of things but what could be the main perpetrators?


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[Calumjs]

Is that the number 3 part you're talking about?


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[Deltarider]

There is an outlet of the main oil gallery dirctly under the ignition cover, you can screw a pressure gauge inthere..
Here's one ment for the workshop and not for permanent use (Think safety)
http://shop.honda4.nl/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2259

[Bodi]

Yes #3. Low oil pressure can be:
- worn out oil pump. Unobtainable new, a good one may be found used.
- worn main bearings. Should be available but engine has to be disassembled.
- missing oil restrictor(s).
- cam chain really loose and cut through case inside to oil gallery
- plugged oil pickup screen
probably other things as well.
The oil pump has two rotor sections, a small one for transmission lube and a bigger one for the crank and valvegear. It's relatively easy to remove, disassemble, and inspect. The larger one will show some damage (they all do) but unless it's really gouged to crap it should still work reasonably well. The end clearance is "adjustable" by machining the case or cover to make it tighter. The rotor internal and external clearances are not reworkable. No internal parts are available, the pump has been out of stock for 10-15 years. There was a member here from South Africa I think doing rebuilds with non-stock rotors that increased the flow but I don't think he's still doing that.
You can remove the sump and check the pickup screen. They can get so clogged with gunge that the pump is starved.

[strynboen]

i have made this setup..a old greese pump line...some fittings1/8 and 1/4. and m 10 #1 so it fits most engines...the adapters just schrevs in the end..