So far I've found many ways to not do things and have success/reliability. I've also found some things that seem to work well.
Pin holes in the fuel tank were repaired by drilling them with a #30 bit (1/8") after paint removal and all other prep work, then filling the fresh metal of the enlarged hole with 60/40 rosin-core solder and a propane torch. The tank was "inerted" properly beforehand. Exploding fuel tanks can result. If in doubt, take it to a radiator shop or other professional. All the dents were painstakingly filled with molten wheel weights and solder, then cleaned and the fuel cell was rechecked for leaks. Caution: water that splashes onto molten lead tends to cause the lead to splatter. Don't be a statistic.
The coil pack from a '92 Mazda Miata seems to have favorable primary resistance, ect for use with electronic ignition modules; allows me to use the cloth covered high-tension leads I wanted to use, and they cost me $150. As a benefit I can now replace coils from part stores that are commonly found across the nation if they crap out during a n adventure ride to another state or even on a Monday when the local bike shop is closed.
I'm in the process of machining parts on a homemade lathe to allow me to use automotive igniter and hall effect unit that can be had new for $20 each. 2 are still required. My dodge D50/ mitsu MightyMax was the inspirational nightmare for the new ignition setup. I'll post pics, ect after its actually fitted to my bike. Everything is fastened to a 2*4 with wood screws, using a drill to spin the reluctor for now. My dvom hates me.
I earn about 12k per year, no govt phone or assistance. I believe most of you can budget for any of the repairs/alternative fixes within reason and expect the performance of higher-end, electronics, ect. I'll be happy to pass the info along for anyone who is minding a budget for whatever the reason may be.
Pod filters...sketchy territory.. They work on my bike just fine. I've never had problems from running pods on any bike. I jet as rich as I can, then work down to avoid lean mixtures/burnt valves, ect. Oh. I also adjust timing. Stock timing was set around a particular stochimetric volume moving through the engine. Up from 105 mains to 120, needle at mid position, and pilots up from #40 to #42. That worked for me. I don't equip my bikes with CV carbs. I traded work for a set of carbs original to the '72 model CB750K. 4into1.com had rebuild kits for around $45, and offered the best customer service. Thanks!!
Back in track.. I bench synch carbs. No fancy gadgets here. If a cylinder is running different, I check valve clearance. I've only been doing this for 20 years so I tend to ask experience rather than a doo-dadd.
I'm teaching a young lady how to service and repair her own bike as I go through my own never-ending project. That's for a story for a different day, but the point is: Pass the knowledge on to someone who can use it. Thinking outside the box? Then imagine what more you can do beyond the fuel tank shape and off the shelf motorcycle parts. You might find a special victory in your own right. Thank you for reading
