Author Topic: cb350 four cylinders 1(most left) and 4(most right) not firing (Read 10221 times)

calj737 · « **Reply #100 on:** October 15, 2014, 02:52:12 PM »

There is no "box". That BLUE wire goes to your coil, should be the 1/4 coil.

Can you take a clearer picture of the entire timing plate? Your earlier one was quite blurry. Close as you can but get the whole thing.

Dos · « **Reply #101 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:17:19 PM »

What I'm getting is that there is no power there with 1.4

Dos · « **Reply #102 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:36:21 PM »

Here is the overview.

Spark test:
1 and 4 spark
2 and 3 no spark

When the bike is running:
Cylinders 1 and 4 are not running
Cylinders 2 and 3 are running

Connection point at 1.4 by the points shows nothing
Connection point at 3.4 shows about 10 volts

I have a feeling the guy before me may have switched around some cords

calj737 · « **Reply #103 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:42:41 PM »

Quote from: Dos on October 15, 2014, 03:36:21 PM

Here is the overview.

Spark test:
1 and 4 spark
2 and 3 no spark

When the bike is running:
Cylinders 1 and 4 are not running
Cylinders 2 and 3 are running

Connection point at 1.4 by the points shows nothing
Connection point at 3.4 shows about 10 volts

I have a feeling the guy before me may have switched around some cords

Do you mean 2/3? Exactly where are you taking this measurement?

Dos · « **Reply #104 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:45:29 PM »

Sorry meant to say 2.3 I've been using my phone for this and the numbers are squished next to each other..

Part of the reason I feel 2 and 3 failed spark test is because my gap was to big

calj737 · « **Reply #105 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:48:06 PM »

Not concerned about "spark" test at the points, only voltage. Where is the "connection point" you measured the voltage?

Dos · « **Reply #106 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:50:37 PM »

I'm taking the test right at the blblue prong and also the metal strip to the point

Dos · « **Reply #107 on:** October 15, 2014, 04:14:44 PM »

Sorry I'm silly. The ppoint was closed on that side when I was testing. I opened it and it reads the same as the right.. Thought I was going somewhere haha

calj737 · « **Reply #108 on:** October 15, 2014, 04:22:06 PM »

So to recap,

- You have 12v at both coils
- you have 12v at both sets of points when open
- you have 0 volts at both points when closed
- you got resistance in both coils in the 10-15k range without caps

Is all this correct? Or did you ever get a final resistance reading on the plug wires with caps removed and hands off?

Dos · « **Reply #109 on:** October 15, 2014, 04:40:26 PM »

Correct

calj737 · « **Reply #110 on:** October 15, 2014, 05:03:19 PM »

And the final resistance numbers for each coil?

Dos · « **Reply #111 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:00:29 PM »

For the right coil going to cylinders 1 and 4 I have 10.43 ohms as a resistance

Dos · « **Reply #112 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:03:37 PM »

For the left coil going to 2 and 3 I have a resistance of 11.03

Dos · « **Reply #113 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:15:20 PM »

I got her up and running and I'm looking at the points and 1.4 is really sparking I mean I see a really nice white blue spark.. I look at 2.3 and it barely does and when it does its orangey and crapy. I was revving the bike and by the exhause connections it was smokey a little bit

Dos · « **Reply #114 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:30:34 PM »

I also want to mention from before .. Before the bike died it sounded like keys were rattling in the engine.. So I Tightened the can chain adjuster bolt.. I ended up snapping the end off and its stuck in the frame I rode it around while that was like that and had no problems until the night it just stopped working.

calj737 · « **Reply #115 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:26:30 PM »

Quote from: Dos on October 16, 2014, 01:30:34 PM

I also want to mention from before .. Before the bike died it sounded like keys were rattling in the engine.. So I Tightened the can chain adjuster bolt.. I ended up snapping the end off and its stuck in the frame I rode it around while that was like that and had no problems until the night it just stopped working.

The "rattling" could be 1 of 3 things commonly: carburetors that need to be synchronized (vacuum is the best method); cam chain (generally dealt with during a 3k service) or exhaust leaks at the head.

So you've metoned 2 of 3 possible symptoms; smoky at the exhaust and a snapped adjuster bolt.... Let's come back to this in a moment.

You got the bike running, on all 4 cylinders? Did you notice that all 4 pipes were getting equally hot?

Can you snap a picture of the snapped adjuster bolt?
Where is the smoke emanating for in the exhaust? At the head or the tailpipe? Color?

Davidov · « **Reply #116 on:** October 16, 2014, 02:43:01 PM »

Dos · « **Reply #117 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:47:24 PM »

hey guys so about 3 hours ago i fixed the bike!.. ended up being a bad condenser for the 1.4 side all along.. I just want to thank EVERYONE that contributed to help me I GREATLY appreciate it. This was a huge learning experience for me and I will now be able to help anyone else with electric issues with their bike.. My cam chain is messed up and i will post a dif thread about that. But thank you guys again seriously

Dos · « **Reply #118 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:49:59 PM »

I cannot say how grateful I am for the guys on here that were very patient with me and my antics lol.. seriously going over step by step helped me and it was an extremely nice thing to do. SOHC4.net for the win!

calj737 · « **Reply #119 on:** October 16, 2014, 03:58:06 PM »

See post #89

Delighted you located the real problem and saved the $ from buying coils. Sounds as though you'll need it now to repair the cam chain adjuster

News:

Author Topic: cb350 four cylinders 1(most left) and 4(most right) not firing (Read 10221 times)