Author Topic: 400F Rattle/grinding/knocking sound. [VIDEO]  (Read 1059 times)

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Offline cbparakeet

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400F Rattle/grinding/knocking sound. [VIDEO]
« on: November 12, 2014, 11:44:40 AM »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcfj3SSmCQw&feature=youtu.be

Hello all,

Above is a link to my beloved 400F, my first bike. I'm very concerned for her, and I don't know what's wrong. The bike has been making a rattle noise for a while, now it's absolutely terrible, very loud. I attempted a cam chain adjustment, adjusted the nut a little bit beyond resistance and no improvement (could the plunger be stuck?). I changed the oil, though I suspect the bike is burning/losing oil somewhere since I ran out of oil in a month. The rattle sound is mostly coming from the top of the engine (valves?) and the knocking is from the middle of the engine (it was cold, I hadn't ran it since last month.)


I hope the video helps! Thank you !
« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 11:46:12 AM by cbparakeet »

Online Bodi

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Re: 400F Rattle/grinding/knocking sound. [VIDEO]
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2014, 04:10:16 PM »
Certainly a dizzying video. The sound is difficult to guess at: I don't know what yours should sound like, and don't trust the microphone much. It just sounds like a motor running, to me.
Your cam chain question does not make sense. What does "adjusted the nut a little bit beyond resistance" refer to, it doesn't describe any part of any 400F cam chain adjustment procedure I know of. The usual issue with cam chain adjustment is that the procedure in the manual does not work (it really doesn't). The original adjuster springs are now all old and weak. You can try a non-running adjustment which might work if the horseshoe is free and the springs have enough push left. You can reliably get a decent adjustment by "helping" the springs via a tool pressing on the top of the plunger rod, through the hole above the adjuster locking bolt (capped with a 6mm bolt). This is done with the engine running: you press the rod down until the chain just goes quiet, and then tighten the locking bolt.
Loud knocking can be a bad thing like loose pistons or worn bearings... but could also be an exhaust or head gasket leak. Worn plain bearings that knock will get worse very quickly until the sound is tremendous and the shocks can be felt through the pegs, seat, and bars... soon the engine starts throwing pieces through its case if you don't stop. A loose piston (worn cylinder and/or piston) is less dramatic and just makes noise, loses power, and burns oil until you fix it. Loose tappets make quite a clacking sound but they are easy to fix: I suggest checking the clearances first.

Offline flybox1

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Re: 400F Rattle/grinding/knocking sound. [VIDEO]
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2014, 04:20:32 PM »
you need to complete the major items in a 3000mi tuneup.  This will help quiet 90% of what you are hearing.
Set your valve lash, timing and advance, adjust your cam chain, and then do a good vacuum sync.

...and THEN, get your bike in a quiet place, set the camera on a chair, and start it.  Your video sound is contaminated with a lot of movement and other sounds.  its tough to hear anything.
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

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Offline Tim2005

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Re: 400F Rattle/grinding/knocking sound. [VIDEO]
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2014, 11:41:58 AM »
You are sure it is running on all 4 cylinders? Sounded rather lumpy to me, though admittedly a longer vid would help......