Topic: rattel in cb 400 four

[strynboen]

my seson starts 15 marts...so today i vent on adjusting the cam chain..so i can race aut in the spring tomorow...i hope...

i loosend the contra bolt...and hoped it vent magig,,and selfadjustet,,just looking at it..but it diddent happend,,i tryed to make a running adjust,,and a static...to find the veak point,,to balance the cam...it diddent help....is there a point at the ignision plate..hvere i are shure to find the perfekt spot(static)

i can feel some movent by running engine, bu use a small schrevdriver as a feeler,so nothing are stuck

can i make a longer end schrev..vith a contra schrev.and make a light press at the end of, the"push bar" nr 7..

or is my problem that the po have made a vrong "hold bolt" vho actuly are 8 mm hole vay inn, i have made a new..just longer,but same desein,,and just have a small 2 mmb end tap to press inn to lock the push bar,,,must it have a thin 6 mm end  tap 10 mm long??..to reatch in to the push bar..i have a idea of,im just schrev it inn,as long it goes...and not aktuly press in and lock...so the mekanism just are hold by the springs ..and move free araund
klick on photo to get it  bigger

[strynboen]

have tryed to make a nev hold bolt..

[Herr Supersport]

Strynboen

Do I understand right - the piece you show us is the part between #7 an #8?

If so, this screw only holds the spanner-bolt in its position - in theory, you loose this screw while the engine is running, the spanner should go in its position automatically, then you block it with that screw.

In real life, the spring often hasn't enough power to move the mechanism. You can fix that when you loosen the top screw [#B], press down the mechanism with a small screwdriver till the rattle is away - an then block with the screw.

Daniel

 

[strynboen]

yes..it betveen 7 and 8..i have pushed  thew adjuster dovn,,by schreving a 8 mm bolt in..in the top..to push the adjuster dovn...but it can not get to push direkt. so scrattel disaperes.think 8 mm are to thik. and seats before it can have kontakt to the push rod.
have then pushed, vith a schdriver,and slovly kickstarted..and find the deppest piont=chain longest..and blocket vith the new schrev..and it vorks better but not perfekt...think i must do a vaccum cyncro..and test my ignision..before make a net test....and have my burnde hand to heal..this exhost got hotter farster then i thourth

this system vorks just like my cd /ss 50..but it have a semi hydralig support.vho takes the last slack...vhy have this cb not a hydralik..or automatic like old cars cam chains..old mazda have  a spiral  vith small clicks...vho turn aut  to a bigger diameter as it veared aut

[Herr Supersport]

Hm - I know that story about burnt hands...

Think, the jap-engineer did this construction under sake or after smoking. The spanner of my bike never was in correct function. Since 30 years.

Enjoy your first ride of this season. I did it two weeks ago. With white fingers and totally frozen - we have still snow here in Switzerland - but it was great fun.

[HondanutRider]

Here's a picture of the bolt I made to replace the top plug bolt (unlabeled under the "B" on your diagram).  I'm not sure but perhaps the end needs to be thinned as I did in order to contact the top of the adjuster rod.

Looks similar to the "hold bolt" that you made, except it's used at a different spot - on top to push the mechanism down more than the springs do, not to lock the rod in place as it can bounce around with the motor running.

According to HondaMan, originally the CB350F came out with a hydraulic tensioner, but it didn't hold up when the oil got hot and thinner, So Honda recalled and fitted the current locking system, which was carried forward to the CB400F.  This never really stood up either, as the springs are weak and it usually can't tension the cam enough without some help...which often leads to some singed fingers.

[strynboen]

yes think i vill make a ekstra adjuster..like you did.

.so i can kontroll the fineadjusting..the long 8 mm thredet bolt i tryed to use...dident fit..it have to be machined dovn to 6 mm to get clerence..(if i can get a o ring inbuild it even can get oil teight.).but that have low preioty nov..