Topic: Points Problem

[mrfish2]

So after getting the top end back together from new rings I went to fire up my 550 today. She struggled tremendously to fire, and wouldn't idle. It didn't take me long to discover the #2 and #3 headers were completely cold while #1 and #4 were very hot. I thought to myself "ok, no big deal, maybe a coil went bad, let's check the timing and points first." Rotated the crank around to check the points gap and lo and behold the 2/3 points won't open at all.

In the first pic the 1/4 points are completely closed, and you can see how the 2/3 points won't open. I also noticed they were a bit crooked too, I'm thinking i might have kicked them somehow during my rebuild. I'm afriad to go bending stuff around to hopefully make them open, so what should i do?

[rb550four]

Restet them, the spark advance still has a cam in it, your points aren't riding the cam enough to open them. Use a test light , a  feelerguage and your manual and get both points spot on.

[mkoski]

Here you go: http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/timing/Static_and_Strobe_Timing.pdf

This will get everything set up to get her started, I just used it yesterday!

[flybox1]

Here you go: http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/timing/Static_and_Strobe_Timing.pdf

This will get everything set up to get her started, I just used it yesterday!

+1
as easy as it gets right there!

[mrfish2]

Here you go: http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/timing/Static_and_Strobe_Timing.pdf

This will get everything set up to get her started, I just used it yesterday!

Haha I actually found that article a few months ago, it's a great tool. I just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong with the points. So yall are saying I just need to reset the gap?

[mkoski]

Yeah, you have to make sure that it is opening and closing at the appropriate times. Make sure you set the gap at the max-open position and that it closes at the "F" mark (as per the document).

From there you should be in good shape.

One more note: be very careful if you turn the crank with the nut that sticks out, its only attached to a thin bolt and you can easily bugger it.

[HondaMan]

One more note: be very careful if you turn the crank with the nut that sticks out, its only attached to a thin bolt and you can easily bugger it.

+1!
Remove the sparkplugs (or at least loosen them) first, it helps a lot. Honda used to have this in the earliest 750 manuals, but it disappeared over time.

[mrfish2]

Reset the gap and timing and she lept to life. Thanks guys!

[reddyvv]

I strongly recommend contacting Hondaman (on this thread) and getting his ignition setup. Easy to install and I love how much smoother the bike idles and runs. The points and adjustment intervals will last a lot longer too.

[reddyvv]

One more note: be very careful if you turn the crank with the nut that sticks out, its only attached to a thin bolt and you can easily bugger it.

Actually the big nut has two ridges in it that mate with slots in the crankshaft. The thin bolt only holds the nut against the crank. So the two ridges are taking the load, not the thin bolt.

[flybox1]

One more note: be very careful if you turn the crank with the nut that sticks out, its only attached to a thin bolt and you can easily bugger it.

Actually the big nut has two ridges in it that mate with slots in the crankshaft. The thin bolt only holds the nut against the crank. So the two ridges are taking the load, not the thin bolt.

Well, to be exact, it's the small pin between the end of the crank and the advanced unit  that takes all the load...

[reddyvv]

Sir, you are correct!!