Author Topic: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong  (Read 1299 times)

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Offline kranta

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cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« on: June 04, 2015, 11:03:16 AM »
so my cb 500 fours 2# cylinder doesnt run so hot as all 3 other cylinders when it idle but when i put some gas it run as it should run. there gome spark to 2# and it get gasoline, but it doesnt run at so hot than other cylinders. so what is the problem???

sorry about bad english :-\

Offline flybox1

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2015, 11:07:35 AM »
so my cb 500 fours 2# cylinder doesnt run so hot as all 3 other cylinders when it idle but when i put some gas it run as it should run. there gome spark to 2# and it get gasoline, but it doesnt run at so hot than other cylinders. so what is the problem???

sorry about bad english :-\
its gotta be one of the following....
Air - check that the choke butterfly is operational and not hanging closed when the choke goes 'off'
Fuel - check that the bowl is filling with an adequate volume of fuel (read:perform the clear tube test)
Spark - check plug cap for resistance, check the plug is gapped correctly and providing a good spark.
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

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Offline Deltarider

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2015, 11:15:43 AM »
What does the #2 plug look like? What about higher rpms?
Make sure spark is not intermittent but constant. Check plug cap for a good connection and resistance.
Make sure #2 slow jet is not clogged. The 500/550K3 serie with PD carbs was notorious for having clogged slow jets.
Are carbs synched within 3 cm Hg of eachother?
« Last Edit: June 04, 2015, 11:17:48 AM by Deltarider »
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Offline kranta

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2015, 11:17:00 AM »
i have checked all of those. the problem wasnt in there :-[ :-\  do i got bad cam shaft or valves or bad piston/rings???

Offline Deltarider

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2015, 11:18:56 AM »
Test compression or have it tested.
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Offline kranta

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2015, 11:19:36 AM »
in higher rpms it run good. but when its idling and i take 2# spark plug cap the idling doesnt actually change but when i give some gas it doesnt run like if spark plug cap is on.

Offline kranta

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2015, 11:20:03 AM »
compression havent been tested.

Offline kranta

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2015, 11:27:23 AM »
and the spark plug get wet but i dont want open the engine. i checked that the valves are good(there arent broken valve or spring)

Offline flybox1

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2015, 11:31:23 AM »
my money is on a carb issue. 
fuel level, clogged jet, etc....
if it runs better at higher rpm, you're pulling fuel now from the main jet.

recheck your carbs.
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

Past Bikes
1974 550K0 (stock), 1973 CB350F (stock), 1983 Yamaha XS400K (POS)
77/78 cool 2 member #3
"Knowledge without mileage equals bullsh!t" - Henry Rollins

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Offline mcswny

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2015, 11:35:13 AM »
Clogged Idle Jet?

once you get up to higher RPMS it switches over to your main jet.

Pull your carbs, or if you can just the bowl on #2 an unscrew your idle jet (its the smaller one) and make sure you can see a circular hole of ligh (tiny) and if not, thats your problem (hopefully) clean it with carb brushes or guitar string.
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Offline Deltarider

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2015, 11:26:38 PM »
Yours has the PD carbs, I don't know if you can remove the slow jet without removing the carbs. (With the old Kei-hin carbs you can.) Anyway slow jet has to be checked
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Offline mcswny

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2015, 06:58:56 AM »
Yours has the PD carbs, I don't know if you can remove the slow jet without removing the carbs. (With the old Kei-hin carbs you can.) Anyway slow jet has to be checked


interesting, i only have had Kei-hin carbs so i didnt know this. (i can get my slow jets out while installed, #2 and #3 are a bit harder, but do-able.)
1972 CB750 K2
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1975 XL250
198 XR80

Offline Deltarider

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Re: cb 500 four 2# CYLINDER DOESNT run idle. whats wrong
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2015, 07:37:55 AM »
Quote
interesting, i only have had Kei-hin carbs so i didnt know this. (i can get my slow jets out while installed, #2 and #3 are a bit harder, but do-able.)
Here is how to do it without removing the oldstyle Kei-hins like: 022A, 087A, 627B, 649A and 069A (I'm sorry Kranta):
1. unscrew the 4 floatbowl screws (later to be replaced by same size allen screws)
2. Pull floatbowl carefully downwards in a straight line. If you number the floatbowls 1,2,3 and 4 you can use them as containers for all the brass parts of that particular carb.
3. Remove springleaf
4. remove float by carefully extracting it's swingpin. Do not exercise force. Some manage to break their whatever it is called (towers?). If the swingpin is hard to extract, spray some WD-40. Caution: whilst removing the float, have your free hand cupped under it to collect the tiny floatneedle that will fall down. Don't loose it! They are expensive.
5. Pull the main jet using your thumb and finger. Some wiggling does it.
6. After removing the main jets twist the throttle wide open in order to raise the needles and with your free hand insert from below a match or wooden toothpick into the needle jets (aka emulsion tubes). When that is snug in the needle jet, cant or turn the wooden toothpick a mm or so and you can wiggle the emulsion tube out easily. Some WD-40 at forehand can help. Essential in this procedure is that you open the throttle to raise the needles. BTW, sometimes the needle jets just drop by themselves after the main jets are removed
7. use a small screwdriver 'slid in sideways (horizontally)' to unscrew the slow jet. Think first and make sure you turn it in the right direction. Gently!
8. All parts go in 1,2,3,4, numbered floatbowls or little containers
9. Now all parts can be inspected and cleaned. Also inspect the tiny O-rings that seal the main jets.
10. The airscrews can be removed at all times. Caution: do not loose the little spring under them. On these carbs they don't have tiny O-rings.
11. Back to the carbbodies. Use a can carbcleaner with a straw and spray from below the carbbodies upwards in all it's orifices. Don't forget the openings where the airscrews sat.
12. Install in reverse order. Do not overtighten the slow jets!
13. Install floatbowl using new little allen screws instead of the old dreadful crosshead screws. Much easier for future removals.

You need to be at ease and well concentrated. On a CB500 carb #1 and #2 are a bit harder due to the presence of the clutchcable. Make it a Zen exercise (that's how Soichiro designed motorcycles, with Zen). I can do it blindfolded and after the first time so can you.

« Last Edit: June 05, 2015, 01:52:55 PM by Deltarider »
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