Topic: All Balls steering head bearing spacer without original to measure?

[Mule169]

Hello,

I'm putting together a 78 CB750K that I bought that was in parts.  I decided to go with the All Balls tapered steering head bearings instead of factory replacements, as the bearings/races had been popped out before I purchased the bike.

My question is does anyone know how I would determine which spacer in the All Balls kit to use without having the original bearing stack to measure and compare against?

My first thought was to just start with the thinnest and go up, but I haven't been able to find any measurement, or spec of how I would determine correct spacing once the steering head has been assembled (like bottom of the steering head tube on the frame to top of the bottom triple or something like that).

I've my best google-fu and have come up empty handed.  I did email All Balls, but it's been a bit and haven't had a response.  I'm sure they have better things to do (like ship product) than answer knucklehead questions like mine.

Any insight anyone could lend? 

Cheers,

[mystic_1]

IIRC the different spacers are to ensure that the bottom tree doesn't contact the bottom of the steering tube.

You can probably get a feel for things by just holding the bottom bearing and spacer up to the race and see how far the surface of the spacer protrudes from the steering tube.

mystic_1

[cuz]

I installed the all balls bearings in my k7 and used the thin spacer.   Still had clearance with the bottom of the triple tree.   

[seanbarney41]

I've have never myself, or heard of anyone else, using anything but the thinner spacer on an sohc4.  I have lost count on how many times I have installed all ballz in an sohc4.

[Mule169]

I've have never myself, or heard of anyone else, using anything but the thinner spacer on an sohc4.  I have lost count on how many times I have installed all ballz in an sohc4.

Kind of where I was headed, most all of my research has been the same.  Everyone seems to use the thin spacer.  I'll give it a crack this weekend and reply to close out the thread.

Thanks to you folks for the quick response.

Cheers

[Don R]

Thin, yup, yessir, afirmative. Just check the turn radius so it clears the stops and still locks properly.

[754]

If you notch the spacers a bit you can get the bearing off later without wrecking it.

[Pan1cReaper]

Im getting ready to do mine, this is the second time Ive read you say to notch the spacer. Could you elaborate?

[mystic_1]

Ordinarily the spacer's edge is even with the bearing race's edge, so if you want to remove the bearing there's no way to pry it from underneath, so you're forced to drive it off and only one side can be accessed from below, so you end up damaging the bearing as you drive it off.

If you notch the spacer in a couple of places, then after installation you'll be able to get some flathead screwdrives under the bearing race and pry it back up, without damaging it. 

mystic_1

[XJRMAN]

Hi I think I had the same issue on my 400 four and as it seed a common problem I posted a youtube vid how I did mine if its of any use.

Graham
link below

I also found a vid of someone installing your kit on a 750

[Pan1cReaper]

Ordinarily the spacer's edge is even with the bearing race's edge, so if you want to remove the bearing there's no way to pry it from underneath, so you're forced to drive it off and only one side can be accessed from below, so you end up damaging the bearing as you drive it off.

If you notch the spacer in a couple of places, then after installation you'll be able to get some flathead screwdrives under the bearing race and pry it back up, without damaging it. 

mystic_1

Ahhh, that makes perfect sense. I was trying to picture it in my head but couldnt. Thanks a lot!