Looking at your video with the 2-3 adjustment cranked all the way retarded, it looks like the typical Daichi points situation. Read Hondaman's report
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=59886.0 for details.
Using TEC or other points with correct geometry is your best fix if these are Daichi.
The other common problem is a points backing plate that doesn't fit tight between the support flanges. This makes setting timing a challenge because the plate shifts axially changing the points gap on both sets. Shimming out the flanges so the plate can rotate but not otherwise move is the answer. It isn't so much of an issue if you only do static timing but using a timing light is an exercise in futility if the plate moves around while adjusting 1-4.
If your points are good (essentially this means NOT Daichi) then set the points gaps to the wide side of spec, and once you have 1-4 timing set and the plate clamped down check both again: if the plate's shifted both will be changed, probably oppositely. You can open the 2-3 gap a bit to retard ignition. The dwell time is generous at redline with the spec gap, still almost certainly sufficient even with the gap considerably wider than spec. This only becomes an issue at high RPM.
