Topic: POR-15 Tank Treatment tips/pics

[Tim.]

Don't know how many of you have done this, or are thinking about it.  Thought I'd share my experience here.

Overall I'm VERY happy with the kit and result.  The instructions could have been more explicit, but with a little searching on the web you'll find a few more detailed versions and stories.

Step 1: Marine Clean - super degreaser.  Removes gum/varnish etc.  Basically you mix this with boiling hot water 1:1 ratio (makes 2 litres total) and dump into your tank.  You can use your petcock on this step.  I didn't have one, so I sealed my petcock with a chemical-proof rubber glove I bought years ago.  Cut the pinky finger off and then cinched it tight around the petcock mount by twisting wire around it.  Don't know what I would do on a different tank with the hole for a petcock to bolt to.

You swish it around and let it sit in different positions for 24+ hours.  I did mine for 30 hours.  Don't neglect the top of the tank.  Let it sit upside down (seal the filler hole) for a good long time too.

Drain and flush out with water.  Get it pretty dry after this.

Step 2: Metal Prep - acid.  Rust remover / zinc coater.  This step is quicker - 30-45 minutes.  Seal up the petcock again.  Dump the stuff in full-strength.  Swish it around and let sit like in step 1 but for less time.  Some people put nuts and bolts in to knock rust loose.  I didn't.  If you have a long magnetic tool used to fish parts out of engine blocks, then you'll be in good shape to remove stubborn nuts and bolts.

Dump the stuff.  It says you can use it again.  For the $10 the bottle costs, I wouldn't bother.  What came out of my tank resembled coffee.

Rinse rinse rinse.  Then DRY DRY DRY.  Lots of moving air.  I used my shop vac on blow for a while, and then my wife's hair dryer on and off for a couple of hours.  At times the tank was hot.  You don't want ANY moisture in there at all.  Don't trust your eyes.  If you think it's dry enough, put the hair dryer on for another 30 minutes.

Step 3: Liner - Tiny little tin of what looks like silver metallic paint.  Again, seal the petcock.  Dump in the liner - make a paper funnel for this out of construction paper or something.  Snip a hole in a coffee filter if you have one.  Whatever the paint touches will have it on it forever.  Seal the filler hole.  Rotate the tank slowly to cover all areas.  Keep doing this over a 40 minute or so period at least.  You'll have to drain the excess.  This isn't easy on some tanks (including my 550) because the floor of the tank is flat, and the petcock has a raised area around it.

One thing.  I wrapped my entire tank in plastic before doing Step 3.  The tank was well sealed off except the filler hole and the petcock.  Masking tape is good for the liner sealing.  No rubber gloves needed to seal here.  Don't put masking tape on your tank directly - you're likely to peel your paint, especially candy top coats that are 30 years old.

This was important as you will invariably end up with the liner on your fingers, and you have to handle the tank a lot.  If you get the liner on anything, including the exterior of your tank, it will be there FOREVER.  I painted the lip of my filler hole with the stuff as you can see in the pics.

Here's a couple of pics of the finished liner.  Sorry I didn't get more 'during' pics, but Steps 2 and 3 are constant activity type things.

Allow 3-5 days for the liner to cure before putting fuel in it.

Do this in a WELL ventilated area (Step 3).  The stuff emits some serious fumes for days.

[cben750f0]

am using the por-15 glisten coat for the side covers... ment to be pretty tough, have used it on the transimmion cover,chaincover, and clutch cover..... seems like its gonna stay on....peace

[lassenc]

I also came across these products!

http://www.tankcure.com/Engels/voorbehandeluk.html

[MikeDeB]

Thanks Tintin, for the excellent write-up and for sharing your experience.  I'll be doing some tanks this next spring and have been giving a lot of consideration to the POR-15 kit.  Your article makes the decision that much easier.

Thanks again,
Mike

[Bob Wessner]

Tintin,

Good write-up. I used 2/3d's of the POR-15 kit last year, degreasing and acid etching. I stopped there because the tank looked brand new inside and I was hesitant to use the liner because it seemed like such a small amount and I didn't think I would be able to get it evenly distributed around the entire interior. Looking at your results, I may just have to try it again. Thanks for taking the time and pics for the posting.

Maybe this should go into the FAQ's.

[Gordon]

Maybe this should go into the FAQ's.

I second the FAQ nomination! 

I did the same thing with my tank, Bob.  Did the first two steps and then liked the way it looked so much, just stopped at that. 

Thanks for the write-up, Tintin!!

[R. Hykawy]

Hi, I used  the por 15 kit three years ago no problems to date.

[jsimon]

I have been reading with interest the various posts on removing rust from gas tanks. I recently purchased a '74 cb750 which had sat outside for 4 years.  The tank was very badly rusted however no leaks were evident.  I did not try the 'creme', por-15, or the 'safestrustremover', however used a chemical most every one of us have in our house;this product made the inside of my tank look like new, as well as removed rust from external parts; buy it at your local supermarket and give it a try.  It is called vinegar.

[L.A. Nomad........]

I think alot people screw up using that stuff. I've seen more than one bike with that stuff in it clogging the breather hole on the cap!  Or heard from other people having it plug up the fuel tap. I guess if you have to use it, but I normally would stay clear of it. I'd just clean the tank, then mix a little two-stroke oil for good measure. Then just drain it. I also try storing my bike in the garage, to keep it away from moisture. Just my two cents..

The write up is good though! I'm use to seeing a differemt kind coating, the silver color makes it look nicer? I'm sure people who want to go the extra mile, will find it very informative.

Nomad

[SteveD CB500F]

It's now in the FAQs http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=2893.msg16467#msg16467

[bike54]

I think alot people screw up using that stuff. I've seen more than one bike with that stuff in it clogging the breather hole on the cap!  Or heard from other people having it plug up the fuel tap. I guess if you have to use it, but I normally would stay clear of it. I'd just clean the tank, then mix a little two-stroke oil for good measure. Then just drain it. I also try storing my bike in the garage, to keep it away from moisture. Just my two cents..

The write up is good though! I'm use to seeing a differemt kind coating, the silver color makes it look nicer? I'm sure people who want to go the extra mile, will find it very informative.

Nomad

main problem with these type of coatings is the curing time at the end if its cool or very humid it takes a lot longer me i would cure it for at least twice the recomended time (10 days) and swill the tank out afterwards with a bit of petrol to make sure

merv   

[Pawsoff]

just got my POR-15 kit today, planning on using it tomarrow, will let you know how it goes, I will try to take pics of the process

[Wayne Meuir]

If you apply POR15 correctly, the way Tintin did, it will not come off or clog the petcock.  What it WILL do is prevent rust from returning--EVER.  I have heard horror stories about Kreme, but have never tried it myself.  You must keep turning the tank for 45 minutes or so during coating so that the stuff does not puddle anywhere in the tank but instead spreads a thin layer over the entire inside.

If you do not get the tank CLEAN and DRY before applying the sealer, it will not adhere.
I leave a hair dryer running on cool air (no heat) for 8 hours with the cap and petcock both open to let air circulate, and I keep the tank in my house during that step to prevent the changes in outdoor humidity from affecting it.

One other thing, if you buy the 8 oz. cans of POR 15, it is enough to coat at least two tanks, so if you have two, get them both ready and apply at the same time.  Once the contents have been exposed to air, it will harden within a day or two anyway, and when you pour the excess back out, there is more than half a can left, more than enough to do a second tank, maybe enough to do three if two of them are realtively small.

Wayne