Topic: CB-750K6 Exhaust Pipes Removing

[That 70s Bike]

The K6 rear tube needed changing, so with my prior experience removing the rear wheels from my "modern" bikes, I consulting my Honda CB-750 Factory Manual and found it odd there was no mention of removing any left side exhaust pipe(s), as on my other bikes the axle must slide out of an enclosed "slot" in the swing arm.
After partially disassembling the axle I attempted to loosen #2 head pipe. After being unsuccessful with penetrating fluid & a hand impact wrench, I realized the tire/axle can be slid out the swing arm after removing the "blocks" (as instructed in the manual)
I will some day need to remove the exhaust pipes, so my question is:
Do I need to rig a torque wrench or an air impact wrench to loosen the exhaust Phillips head fasteners at the headpipes?
What have you guys used?
Thanks.

[DH]

The pipe is clamped to a spigot, usually requiring wiggle/twisting/pulling motion to separate the two parts. There is a copper gasket
underneath the spigot which is retained to the head with the screws. Unless there is a black stain and associated exhaust
leak from that area, you can leave the spigot screws alone. They can be a big pain to remove if that becomes necessary tho,
and sometimes it's best to consult a machine shop, unless you are good at drilling/rethreading aluminum and have the correct
tools when they break. An impact driver is usually a must at minimum.

[PeWe]

Remove rear wheel no problem ad you have found out. Lrt pipes sit.
Remove std HM300/341exhaust not a problem either. Release bolt thru the clamps, 12 mm heads. Do one pair 1-2 or 3-4. When clamos are loose remove the bolt holding passanger foot peg and keeping the 2 pipes in place. 17mm head on peg side, 19mm nut other side.when bolt is iff with help if a bar hammer it out unhook pipes from spigots that can sit. No need if removal unless you ned to pull engine or seals are leaking.
Mounting the pipes is tricky first time when you will realise tjat the pioes must be seated all the way in on the spigots until you can get the rear bolt to get thru footpeg, both pipes and get bolt to fit ghru the hole in frame.
It helps with a strap tightenef sround the engibe keeping the pipes on the spigots before attempt to fiy the bolt. DO NOT HAMMER THE PIPES ON SPIGOTS WHEN LOOSEN. Pipes will be destroyed since the spigot angle and pipe will lock-up. Rear bolt will fit perfect when correctly seated on spigots. First time I did my new HM300 4-4; it took 2 hours. 3-4 5 minutes, 1-2 rest of the time since I did the complicated wau with bike on sidestand. Next time 5-10 minutes for each pair.
The rubber hose connecting each pair might beed to be replaced. I used a 1/2" oil/ water hose. Opened abd used 2 together that fit after some cutting. 26 mm hose might fit direct.

[Maurice]

My experience was that the pipes were solidly fastened to the spigots and I found it easier to remove the spigots from the engine, and then remove the pipes from the spigots.

The phillips screws can be stubborn, but a good impact driver and appropriate bit should work. I did not strip any screw on a bike that was left outside for years, east coast. Some heat may help, but persistence and patience does it. Have to remove the front wheel and fender to properly access cylinders 2 and 3.

To remove the pipes from the spigots required some whaling, hitting fingers with a BFH and penetrating oil. I setup the spigots in a vice, loosely so only the ears rested on the sides, and the pipe dangled below, also loosely supported. Then a big socket fitting the inside pipe and some elbow grease and out they go. If the socket is squarely set each blow you will not damage the pipes, but don't be afraid of hitting they can be in there good.

Good luck

[That 70s Bike]

Ok, so I can't rely on my experience with the 500/550 pipes that mount up differently. I hadn't recently looked at a 750 parts diagram. I assumed the round finned "clamp" was not a clamp (holding the pipe on a spigot) but merely a heat diffuser to keep the pipes from bluing, since removing the bolt only allows it to rotate, exposing the countersunk Phillips head fastener(s) of flanges, that I presumed were welded to the pipes. So they are actually spigots that most likely are "stuck" in the pipes.
Thank you all for clarifying this.