Author Topic: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off  (Read 13507 times)

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Offline calj737

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #25 on: February 19, 2016, 08:38:25 AM »
Do you have a link to the wires? I'm on mcmasters and doesn't look like they separate by copper, but by "type" of wire such as chem resist, harsh enviro, radiation etc http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=116zsq4

Assuming the 24awg is for controls and 18awg for power and 25-50 ft should be more than sufficient right? Yes, if you're using momentary switches. If you use stock controls, use 18AWG everywhere.

Is this that flat bar where the back of the seat cover? No, I was referring to within the lateral tubes where the coils get mounted, above the carbs.

Had it not been for the M-Unit detecting the short and shutting off that circuit, I would have melted that battery terminal for sure if not started an electrical fire!!  The M-Unit saved me from this disaster, I tightened the terminal up and went on my way.
Hard to out a price on safety, but I definitely agree it is a nice feature. Some might say, "That's a newbie mistake and you will learn next time..." But I'll take some creative thinking over human error to offer some protection any day. After all, I'm only human.  :)
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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline thirstforspeed

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #26 on: February 19, 2016, 12:00:18 PM »
i put one on my Virago, custom wiring and the whole bit. didnt use any stock components except for the TCI box.

I can't say enough good things about it. it is very easy to wire (for a noob - it was the first time i did any custom fab work at all). i like how straight-forward the wiring layout is. one side to the switch, one side to the load, ground through the frame. and lots of customizability for different switches and such. I think it is a great upgrade to any TCI/points bike if its at the point where the harness needs to be redone or the electrics are being relocated. integrated fused relays are the future.


Offline fodzilla

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #27 on: February 23, 2016, 03:17:37 PM »
Hard to out a price on safety, but I definitely agree it is a nice feature. Some might say, "That's a newbie mistake and you will learn next time..." But I'll take some creative thinking over human error to offer some protection any day. After all, I'm only human.  :)

Hi calj,

I'd like to thank you for the help on this, I think I almost ready to begin the wiring stage, but wondered if you had a wiring diagram you'd used.  I've had a look about on the forum and thought I'd seen one you'd posted before but for the life of me I can't find it now I'm after it.

I now get the charging system not being part of the M-unit and understand it runs of the auxiliary as detailed in this partial wiring diagram I found online. But I'm a little confused with the indicator warning lights, full bean warning light, neutral light and oil light positions in the wiring.

Doe's the indicator warning light share a connection with both "Turn L & Turn R Out's" on the M-unit? Such as "Turn L & Turn R Out's" -> Indicator Warning Light -> Ground

And do the neutral light and oil light share the "Aux out"? If so in which order?  "Aux out" -> Switch -> Light -> Ground

Sorry, I'm a little confused here at this point, I get the attached diagram but can't find much on warning lights with the M-Unit installs.
CB500 Four K1 '75

Offline calj737

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #28 on: February 23, 2016, 04:55:13 PM »
... but wondered if you had a wiring diagram you'd used. I generally do them up for each specific member's configuration then shoot them directly. If you need one, PM the exact details of your switches, key, lighting etc... I have 3 to do by the end of the week, so tweaking one for you will be little effort I'm sure.

But I'm a little confused with the indicator warning lights, full bean warning light, neutral light and oil light positions in the wiring. To answer this, I'd need to know exactly your gauges and instrument cluster. But, essentially, the power for the OIL, NEU lights is fed from AUX. HI an TURNs is fed from the output of right side of the m-unit, or an inline tap of the component's wire.

For instance, from m-unit, HI, I use a BLUE wire (like stock) run to an H4 plug in the headlight bucket. At the H4 plug, I take a small BLUE wire length to the HI indicator light. (This is it's powered source as the HI wire is carrying current when active). The HI indicator also needs a GROUND to chassis. This same scheme is used for TURN L and TURN R.


Sorry, I'm a little confused here at this point, I get the attached diagram but can't find much on warning lights with the M-Unit installs.
On the m-unit, there is a single input on the left side for BRAKE. You need to run a wire from the FRONT brake switch to it, and also from the REAR brake pedal to it. The output side is a single wire run to the tail light/brake light. For AUX, TURN L, TURN R, you need multiple "output taps" if you will. Here's why:

AUX is used to power gauge backlight, Ignition, coils, TAIL light, and license plate lights (if separated). You can splice into some of these runs, but you have at least 1 run to the rear, and at least 1 to the front. I use a small gadget from MotoG (only recently introduced) called the "AUX Clamp". http://cognitomoto.com/collections/motogadget/products/m-unit-aux-clamp) This allows a single connection to the output port, but multiple taps for different components. I find it very helpful for a clean and easy install. Also, I can continue to separate colors for each circuit (using BROWN for tail light) but still coming from the AUX port.

For the TURNs, 1 wire forward, 1 rearward. You can pull 2 wires from an output port, but not 3 due to the size of the port. So it adds a tiny expense, but I think it makes for super easy service, repair (our bikes tend to fall down and brake lights etc...) and replacement.

Hope that helps clarify some questions?
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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline fodzilla

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #29 on: February 23, 2016, 05:21:30 PM »
Thanks Calj,

That's absolutely terrific!  It's just clicked perfectly in my head for me!  Your comments and the diagram I found on the Motogadet site helped it all go together!   Looking forward to fitting the thing now, and that new part they do is nice, expensive but for the sake of £15 it will save a lot to time and hassle.

For anyone else, here is the link...worth the read, by the time you get to the end of reading, it starts to fit together!
http://motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf

I'll map out the switches, key, lighting and other bit you might want and drop you a PM sometime tomorrow. 

Thanks again for your help here.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2016, 05:26:46 PM by fodzilla »
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Offline greenjeans

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #30 on: February 23, 2016, 06:26:45 PM »
Thanks for the input guys.   The bike I'm building is for me, until somebody gives me a silly number for it.  It has an aluminum oil tank and will not run side covers.  Was thinking of an m-unit coupled with a rectifier/voltage regulator combo unit.  That way I could put them where they wouldn't be seen.  I could do pretty much the same thing without an m-unit, but I like the idea of eliminating the stock handlebar controls.  There are 2 things that get me - priceif I were to get the m-unit, 2 3-button handlebar controls and, the actual look of the buttons.  Ideally, I'd like something less modern.  Could be just as easy as smoothing out the tooling marks and rounding things a bit.

Yep, I'm the kid that figured out how to put things back together...eventually.

Offline QWERTYMage

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #31 on: September 07, 2016, 02:48:34 PM »
Yes yes yes... I'm in the process of rewiring my M-Unit... I made a few mistakes worth noting.

(This is being wired into a 75 XS650 FWIW)

I used the Motogadget wiring harness the first time. It's good stuff, but a bit too heavy gauge than necessary. The Revival Cycles kit is made for the M-Unit  specifically, it's smaller guage wire, there's more of it, and it comes with a main fuse and holder... it's worth a look.

I had a short in the M-Switches (Handlebar buttons) because I ran too much wire through the terminal and it jumped to the bars... womp womp. Also, I failed to read the instructions, and it advised to turn the tuerminal in the button to make sure the angle in the housing is correct.

PRO TIP: The black m-switches have plastic threads. The polished m-switches have aluminum threads. BUY THE POLISHED M-SWITCHES. Just kidding. I'm not a pro. But seriously, buy the polished switches. they are much nicer than the black ones.

I am having a bit of a problem grounding everything cleanly - but that s being sorted out. It's fitting in a box under the seat between the frame struts. Look up the XS650 if you need a visual (I will post the box once I get this done.)


NOW I HAVE A QUESTION: Has anyone wired theirs up with LED brake lights with the single wire running/brake option: I'm runnign X-Arc duos and I would love to get notes for this option.

Cheers.

QWERTY


Offline calj737

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #32 on: September 07, 2016, 03:24:00 PM »
Yes yes yes... I'm in the process of rewiring my M-Unit... I made a few mistakes worth noting.

(This is being wired into a 75 XS650 FWIW)

I used the Motogadget wiring harness the first time. It's good stuff, but a bit too heavy gauge than necessary. The Revival Cycles kit is made for the M-Unit  specifically, it's smaller guage wire, there's more of it, and it comes with a main fuse and holder... it's worth a look.

I had a short in the M-Switches (Handlebar buttons) because I ran too much wire through the terminal and it jumped to the bars... womp womp. Also, I failed to read the instructions, and it advised to turn the tuerminal in the button to make sure the angle in the housing is correct.

PRO TIP: The black m-switches have plastic threads. The polished m-switches have aluminum threads. BUY THE POLISHED M-SWITCHES. Just kidding. I'm not a pro. But seriously, buy the polished switches. they are much nicer than the black ones.

I am having a bit of a problem grounding everything cleanly - but that s being sorted out. It's fitting in a box under the seat between the frame struts. Look up the XS650 if you need a visual (I will post the box once I get this done.)


NOW I HAVE A QUESTION: Has anyone wired theirs up with LED brake lights with the single wire running/brake option: I'm runnign X-Arc duos and I would love to get notes for this option.

Cheers.

QWERTY
I think you're mistaken about the MG wiring kit. Theirs is separated into switch side gauge wire and power side wire. Perhaps this wasn't understood on your part? Not disparaging the VERY GOOD folks at Revival or their kit, just clarifying.

As for the single wire tail/brake, yup, been there done that. Why don't you PM your question and specifics and I'll see if I can sort you out.
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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline QWERTYMage

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #33 on: September 08, 2016, 08:07:53 AM »
I'm a bit confused.  :-\ Not sure what you mean, but...

Perhaps I should clarify: The MG kit is great. The Revival kit is great - plus it offers benefits the MG kit didn't provide. Either one is recommended (as I used them both) - but the Rev kit wins on small details. all the wire is smaller, there is a fuse, they offer more useful ferrule sizes, it comes with more wire for each input/output.

I had the gauge wire stuff correct (output run from output - input run to input). ALL of the Rev wire is smaller and saves space if needed by their design. Stephan (Rev owner) was a medical device engineer and he knows about vital wiring :) . Use whatever floats your boat. If your boat happens to be really really lacking in wiring space - go with the Rev kit.


BTW, this is the best thread I've found about the M-Unit. Thanks to all who've posted. Even though I've been messing with this bike for a while, I've learned a few things.

Offline 540nova

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #34 on: September 08, 2016, 08:28:01 AM »
I wish Calj737 would post up a cheat sheet   detailing all the little tricks and niggles with the M-unit, such as when and why the horn honks (low battery, etc), parking mode, and how to get out of it, etc. There's so much more to it's operation that is not addressed in the manual, that he's discovered and figured out.
Motogadget really should update and improve the manual.


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Offline calj737

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Re: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #35 on: September 08, 2016, 09:46:06 AM »
All the tips and tricks I learned have come from reading, re-reading, and re-reading the manual. Plus about 100 questions via email and 2 phone calls with MG and Stefan @ Revival. I guess the length of my experience with it and dealing with numerous configs has helped me learn some inside tricks. But I can't really remember what "is or isn't" in the manual much anymore. And I've posted on so many threads by now I think it all is documented somewhere within this Forum already.

Qwerty - the wire used by MG is already 24AWG and metric equivalent of 20AWG. The difference is the shielding. Only downside to using smaller wire than that is frailty. Pamco uses very small trigger wires and connecting them and protecting them becomes tedious. Stefan is very bright and I'm sure their kit is quite good. I use standard 18,22 AWG high quality wire and have hidden all the wires quite successfully on bikes with ZERO space without issue. And o use ferrules I buy thru McMaster. I wire up so many bikes it seems, I just have amassed what I need to be durable and reliable and still ultra discreet.
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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of it's victim may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated, but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." - C.S. Lewis

Offline 540nova

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All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off
« Reply #36 on: September 08, 2016, 09:55:54 AM »
All the tips and tricks I learned have come from reading, re-reading, and re-reading the manual. Plus about 100 questions via email and 2 phone calls with MG and Stefan @ Revival. I guess the length of my experience with it and dealing with numerous configs has helped me learn some inside tricks. But I can't really remember what "is or isn't" in the manual much anymore.

One of the problems I had was how my headlight and tailight were locked in "park" mode, upon shut down, you may recall, and during our discussion, you related how another member you dealt with had a similar issue. The fix was a certain shutdown procedure, with the kill switch and headlight switch. I never would have figured that out without your help!
I've since learned that I have to switch off the high beam, to low before shutting off, otherwise, it will be in park mode, with the tailight remaining on.
That's one of the goofy things I'm referring to, definitely NOT in the manual!
I still think the manual could use an update.


1974 CB450, 2006 CBR1000RR
« Last Edit: September 08, 2016, 09:58:55 AM by 540nova »