Topic: -75 honda cb500 cafe/brat build

[b.linden]

I used VHT engine enamel, with primer! I think I used 4 paint cans and 2 primer..
 Im happy with the results so far, baked the paint in the oven and no bubbling or anything like that. The only thing is that it is'nt super hard, it scratches pretty easy.. not from a fingernail but anything metal will scratch. also the paint under the bolts gets torn of when the bolts are tightened.

[b.linden]

So trying to get started with the electrics!
 Im gonna use AlBundys (thanks for letting me!) wiring diagram, might make one more specific to my build soon though since I use the M-button, no starter and the wire-colors might be a bit different.
 This is the diagram


Im trying to understand how to wire the reg/rec, and i can't seem to really do it..
 from the alternator comes five wires, three YELLOW, one GREEN and one WHITE. my understanding, and as seen in the diagram, is that all these connects to the reg/rec. The thing is that from the reg/rec, the five wires that are bundled together in a white connector is three YELLOW one RED and one GREEN. other than those wires there are three "loose" ones, one BLACK one GREEN and one WHITE.
 So i guess my question is, which wires from the reg/rec connects to which wires from the alternator? The sane way this should be done, at least in my mind, is that the five wires bundled togehter goes to the five wires that comes from the alternator. Is it just that the RED from reg/rec goes to WHITE from the alternator? or is it the loose WHITE that connects to WHITE from the alternator, which is what the diagram says. And in wich case the WHITE should switch places with the RED in the connector.
 This way makes more sense to me, and is how i think it should be! did ricks f** up and put the wrong wire in the connector?

[calj737]

The reason the diagram differs from the way Ricks ships his Reg/Rec is because his plugs are configured for a "stock" panel.

So simply swap the RED from the plastic plug with the loose WHITE. Then abide the diagram from Al. And ditch the m-button...

[b.linden]

The reason the diagram differs from the way Ricks ships his Reg/Rec is because his plugs are configured for a "stock" panel.

So simply swap the RED from the plastic plug with the loose WHITE. Then abide the diagram from Al. And ditch the m-button...

Had a second look at the instructions that came with the reg/rec and figured that was the reason its set up as it is.. thanks!
 
 Haha, yeah might as well right? wish I never bought the thing, but since I did I'm thinking i might as well use it.
 

[b.linden]

Just want to double check one thing, the only effect not having a starter has on the wiring-diagram is to ditch the starter, the solenoid and all the wiring to it, i.e. the wire from the solenoid to the battery +, and the wire from solenoid to M-unit start, right?
 Actually, just now realising that this probably will affekt how I wire the kill/switch.. Allknowing Calj, can the killswitch button(only killswitch and not start/killswitch in my case) still be connected to START input on the M-unit and work as it should?

[calj737]

How you wire the KILL switch depends upon what you are using for handlebar controls. If you are using the Motor M-switches, then the same button that you would wire to START and press once, you press twice to KILL the motor. This is a built-in feature of the M-Unit.

If you are using the stock controls, then you can wire a BLACK to RH STOP/RUN, then come off that with a BLK/WHT to the coils. This is exactly how the stock bike is wired. Moving the switch to STOP, severs power to the coils. Move it to RUN and you have 12v on BLK/WHT and the coils are powered.

As for deleting the starter motor, you don't gain much overall. You need to plug the case so oil doesn't leak out. You can delete the solenoid, and that eliminates the Y/R wire from START output, the Y/R to START input, and you run the RED wire from M-Unit power directly to the battery POS terminal.

The M-button is pointless. And it MUST be installed within steel bars to function properly. If you are using clip ons, they are made from aluminum and the M-Button will produce erroneous functions. It's far easier to wire your bike eliminating the M-Button by simply running the wires from your LH and RH bar directly to the input side of the M-Unit. These are purely "ground signals" that trigger that circuit. The output side runs directly to the component.

Another benefit of not using the M-Button is that you can simply move the wire at the M-Unit input side and change the behavior of that button. For instance, if you are using momentary switches, and decide that on your LH bar, you want a button to be HI/LO and you previously wired it for HORN, simply move the wire at the M-Unit. Now its function is different. Make that change with the M-Button, and you must cut the connection (2 wires) and re-solder it, shrink wrap it, and undo a fair bit of sheathing. Not worth the effort and you avoid any anomalies in function behavior.

Send it back. Trust me. I've only wired up dozens of these things and helped dozens more do the same. And there has not been a single person with an SOHC that has used the thing long term. In fact, I think I have 3 of them sitting on my parts shelves from folks abandoning them.

[b.linden]

Okey, you convinced me.. ditching the M-button! probably bought it too long ago to send it back though, too bad.

 Regarding the KILL, I will be using "homemade" switches, 3d-printed housing with momentary buttons. And a flip switch for blinkers. It should work exaktly as the motogadget switches, so will probably wire it like the first option!

[calj737]

If you remove the START function because you remove the starter/solenoid, then your ignition key will be your "KILL" switch.

[b.linden]

So the M-unit double click function on START/KILL button doesent work if theres no starter motor?

[calj737]

It does, but your button designated for "START" would do what when pressed once? Your coils will be powered off AUX, not START. So to disrupt power to them, you'd have a button assigned to START input just so you can push button kill?

It might be smarter to indicate exactly what you are building, what components you are using, and what functions you will use so I can generate a wiring diagram exactly for your bike. Too many unanswered questions thus far-

[b.linden]

The law in Sweden says you have to have a kill button on the handlebars, the ignition key isn't enough.. so just figured it be an easier way of doing it than having the power wire to the coils going up to the handlebars and back!

Okey, sorry! will try do give you an overlook on my planned system and components!
 So as i said, the diagram is pretty accurate. exept no starter motor.
the battery is a antigravity 4-cell. Im using ricks motorsport reg/rec and a M-unit. Stock coils and some kind of aftermarket ignition timing. Handlebar controls are as in the diagram.
The headlight is a aftermarket, normal headlight, 60/55W 12V. No "running" light or what its calld though, just hi/lo beam.
Led blinkers front and back.
 Hope that answered at least some of what you were missing

[calj737]

And what about ignition? Is it stock key?

Why no starter motor?

[b.linden]

Not stock ignition, but i think OEM replacement. same wires as stock anyway.

 Well, I have to admit I think its mostly vanity, I want it to be kick only. retro bike, retro start. Also i wanted to keep the electrics to a minimum. And its a weight saving, wich at least sounds good to say.
 the hole for the starter is soon to be plugged. made a plug from aluminium and will stick it in place with epoxy.

[b.linden]

any tips on how to get the gound wire as tidy as possible?
 If i run one ground from m-unit mount up to the front of the bike, in to the headlight, it then has to split up into 8(if i counted right) new connectors.. is the best way to do this really with bullet connectors?

[b.linden]

A lot of questions now hehe..
 wire-sizes! this is what im following right now, as per motogadget instruction;
2.5mm² - power and ground
0.5mm² - m-unit inputs
1.5mm² - basically everything else

Battery POS to m-unit not included.

 Is this the right way to do it? can I use 0.5mm for led blinkers and brakelight? does all ground really have to be 2.5mm?

[calj737]

any tips on how to get the gound wire as tidy as possible?
 If i run one ground from m-unit mount up to the front of the bike, in to the headlight, it then has to split up into 8(if i counted right) new connectors.. is the best way to do this really with bullet connectors?

Battery NEG straight to right rear motor hangar, pinched between frame and motor. M-unit ground to frame. Do NOT run a ground from battery to headlight. Ground the components to the frame individually.

[calj737]

A lot of questions now hehe..
 wire-sizes! this is what im following right now, as per motogadget instruction;
2.5mm² - power and ground
0.5mm² - m-unit inputs
1.5mm² - basically everything else

Battery POS to m-unit not included.

 Is this the right way to do it? can I use 0.5mm for led blinkers and brakelight? does all ground really have to be 2.5mm?

M-unit to battery POS should be at least a 10AWG wire. All input wires to m-unit can be 22AWG. All switched power (outputs from M-Unit) should be 18AWG.

[b.linden]

any tips on how to get the gound wire as tidy as possible?
 If i run one ground from m-unit mount up to the front of the bike, in to the headlight, it then has to split up into 8(if i counted right) new connectors.. is the best way to do this really with bullet connectors?

Battery NEG straight to right rear motor hangar, pinched between frame and motor. M-unit ground to frame. Do NOT run a ground from battery to headlight. Ground the components to the frame individually.

 The way i see it (from the diagram and varios sources) the components should not be grounded induvidually to the frame, instead wired to a "mainline" collecting the grounds to the M-unit mount, wich is grounded to the frame.

[b.linden]

wondering about the ignition key and how to connect it. It has BROWN, BROWN/WHITE, RED and BLACK wires.
 In the diagram RED goes to m-unit POS (the battery POS cable) and the BROWN to m-unit "lock" input. Where does BROWN/WHITE and BLACK go?

[calj737]

Ground the components to the frame individually.

The way i see it (from the diagram and varios sources) the components should not be grounded induvidually to the frame, instead wired to a "mainline" collecting the grounds to the M-unit mount, wich is grounded to the frame.

Diagrams are "theoretical" in their representation. It's true that essentially all the grounds end up in common, but that common denominator is the frame, working its way back to battery NEG, not the M-Unit. The battery NEG MUST find a connection to the motor/frame. After that, a "mainline" or common ground is purely personal approach.

For the greatest ease and reliability, wire each component to the main frame, bare metal connection for their respective grounds. I do find it puzzling that for someone with limited experience you would debate how to wire a bike, especially an M-Unit with someone who has wired dozens of them, and assisted in nearly a hundred others. But its your bike, and you should do as you wish.

[b.linden]

Ground the components to the frame individually.

The way i see it (from the diagram and varios sources) the components should not be grounded induvidually to the frame, instead wired to a "mainline" collecting the grounds to the M-unit mount, wich is grounded to the frame.

Diagrams are "theoretical" in their representation. It's true that essentially all the grounds end up in common, but that common denominator is the frame, working its way back to battery NEG, not the M-Unit. The battery NEG MUST find a connection to the motor/frame. After that, a "mainline" or common ground is purely personal approach.

For the greatest ease and reliability, wire each component to the main frame, bare metal connection for their respective grounds. I do find it puzzling that for someone with limited experience you would debate how to wire a bike, especially an M-Unit with someone who has wired dozens of them, and assisted in nearly a hundred others. But its your bike, and you should do as you wish.

Sorry Cal, not at all debating you or your knowledge and experience! just making sure I fully understand what you mean:) Sorry if i seamed blunt! Rather ask and seem stupid, than dont ask and stay stupid, you know!

[b.linden]

laid all the wire out on the bike, to get the right lenght and routing, then made the connections to the m-unit and such. Just a few things and a bunch of doublechecks and then I will start bundling the wires together!