Topic: Led turn signals

[MD]

'75 CB550F Super Sport

In order to make power available for some auxiliary lights I switched the turn signals to 1156 & 1157 Sylvania LEDs.  I also replaced the stock flasher with a LED compatible unit.  First I tried an AUDEW 2-Pin.  Turn signals would not flash, adjusting the potenteometer did not help.  I then tried iJDMTOY (1) 2-Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay.  When turning on the signal the light brightens but does not flash.  Turning the signal on originally caused the oppisite running light to go out.  After flipping the flasher leads both running lights remain lit.

This bike does have the original 2 light left & right indicator.

Steps taken,

Check connections and grounds front and rear.
Disconnect the beeper,  no change
Disconnect the rear lights, no change
Flip the running and turn leads for the front lights.  Running lights are brighter but signals still don't flash.

Other than giving up and going back to stock lights,  what should I try?

Thanks.

-MD

[Airborne 82nd]

'75 CB550F Super Sport

In order to make power available for some auxiliary lights I switched the turn signals to 1156 & 1157 Sylvania LEDs.  I also replaced the stock flasher with a LED compatible unit.  First I tried an AUDEW 2-Pin.  Turn signals would not flash, adjusting the potenteometer did not help.  I then tried iJDMTOY (1) 2-Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay.  When turning on the signal the light brightens but does not flash.  Turning the signal on originally caused the oppisite running light to go out.  After flipping the flasher leads both running lights remain lit.

This bike does have the original 2 light left & right indicator.

Steps taken,

Check connections and grounds front and rear.
Disconnect the beeper,  no change
Disconnect the rear lights, no change
Flip the running and turn leads for the front lights.  Running lights are brighter but signals still don't flash.

Other than giving up and going back to stock lights,  what should I try?

Thanks.

-MD

Considering the amount of time the turn signal is on I don't see you gaining much if any additional power

[MD]

Airborne 82nd

The front LEDs are on all the time as running lights.  I also replaced the tail light with an LED.  The stock headlight was swapped out with a halogen 35/50.  All these changes have dropped the running voltage from bike needing 9.6 amps @5000 rpm to 8.8 amps @5000 rpm.  This will give me .8 amps of available power without overloading the bikes charging system.

-MD

[calj737]

Evopgt just went through something similar. He found that some inline resistors did the trick as the new LED bulbs weren't drawing enough current to trigger the flasher. With an LED type flasher unit, I would think you should not be seeing the problem.

Did you try swapping the poles on the flasher unit?

[MD]

Did you try swapping the poles on the flasher unit?

Calj737

Yes,

I can't find the thread that we discussed the leads feeding the buzzer.  Do you just tape them off or do you put a jumper between them to complete the circuit?

On an older car non flashing lights would indicate it was a bad bulb, not the case on the bike. 

Next thing I try is opening up the bucket again and unplugging the front lights.

Thanks,

-MD

[calj737]

If you are referring the Brown/Blue Stripe, I abandon them as I don't use the Turn Signal Buzzer. Be mindful, they are hot when the indicators are alive...

[evopgt]

The issue I had with my led turns is a lack of a defined on/off blink even with a new electronic LED flasher. I wired up 4 in line resistors and they worked wonderfully. I still hate the thoughts of all of the wiring for resistors and the extra mess under the seat. I m going to try a different flasher, if it doesn't work, the resistors are getting installed. I picked up 4 on eBay for like 8.68 shipped to my door. Don't use the supplied t connectors though, they can cause connection issues. 

[evopgt]

I should also note.  I wired the fronts to just be turn signals .. not on all the time and I abandoned the buzzer and all of the dash dummy lights. The only non led light on the bike will be the halogen headlight. It will just have a lighted up speedo. Only went with what is needed.

[TwoTired]

Chip resistors take very little space.  I can't see your physical arrangement, though.

Why can't you just solder one to the LED?

[MD]

TwoTired,

In my case the bulb bases are standard bonnets with 1 or 2 feed points and the outside of the bonnet as ground.

-MD

[MD]

I have ordered replacement LED BA9S for the dash indicators.

-MD

[millla03]

The problem I encountered going to full LED was the signal backfeeding through the "idiot" or indicator light on dash. It needed diodes wired in between the power feeds to this light with the other wire connected straight to ground.

If you disconnect the dash indicator light and the signals then function, diodes should do the trick without needing resistors. Free and easy to try.

[evopgt]

Update on my problem, I tried another flasher. It was an adjustable 2 pin flasher.  It got them to blink, but, the left would be faster than the right and if the adjuster moved even the slightest from where I got it to work. The left didn't blink at all..I didn't like it. So I wired up the resistors tonight, I love how they work now!!

[RAFster122s]

Not trying a 3 wire/terminal flasher for leds?

How many lumens are the sylvania Leds cranking out?

Mcm electronics has $4 shipping on most orders through Tuesday.

David

[MD]

Not trying a 3 wire/terminal flasher for leds?

How many lumens are the sylvania Leds cranking out?

Mcm electronics has $4 shipping on most orders through Tuesday.

David

David,

I looked on the packaging and could not find the lumens listed. 

Replaced the dash indicator lights with LEDs.  Lights still don't flash.  I'll take Dave's advice and try a three wire.

-MD

[MD]

The Three wire flasher works in lane change mode.  In other words if you push the switch to lock position the signals won't flash.  If you hold the switch engaged prior to the lock lights flash.  I looks like I will need to clean that switch.

-MD

[Mr.D]

I just encountered the same problem. Last week I replaced all bulbs except the two rear signals with LEDs...(because I ordered the wrong bulb for rear signals the first time)... ((oh, the headlight is still an incandescent sealed-unit as well))... Installed a two-prong adjustable electronic flasher, and all was working well. Great! I thought.
Today got the proper LEDs for the rear signals, installed them, and lo and behold, no flashing any more. 

The electronic flasher claimed to be able to eliminate the need for resistors. I don't know whether to try another electronic flasher or what. It was pretty cheap but obviously don't want to keep ordering parts that aren't going to work!

Any new hints/success stories?

 

[millla03]

Did you try the flashers with the idiot light unplugged? I just went through this a few months back and the issue I described above was at fault. Worth a shot and costs nothing to try. I'd be happy to provide info on wiring diodes into the circuit if needed.

[flybox1]

I just encountered the same problem. Last week I replaced all bulbs except the two rear signals with LEDs...(because I ordered the wrong bulb for rear signals the first time)... ((oh, the headlight is still an incandescent sealed-unit as well))... Installed a two-prong adjustable electronic flasher, and all was working well. Great! I thought.
Today got the proper LEDs for the rear signals, installed them, and lo and behold, no flashing any more. 

The electronic flasher claimed to be able to eliminate the need for resistors.  For new/modern electrical systems, sure. I don't know whether to try another electronic flasher or what. It was pretty cheap but obviously don't want to keep ordering parts that aren't going to work!

Any new hints/success stories?  Run standard bulbs in either your front or rear signals and move on 

[Deltarider]

Any new hints/success stories?  Run standard bulbs in either your front or rear signals and move on

+1 or better: run them in both. In 37 years I had to replace one such a standard bulb. Let's assume PO also replaced one. Cost in total: less than $ 1,-. Not much for a dead reliable item that is better noticed (glow on glow off) is noticed from the side as well, doesn't need a special reflector, nor extra wiring, nor diodes, nor a different relay and can be bought in practically every pop and mom store. Tip: go for 21W max or 18W, preferably with an E-approval. Philips used to have them that drew less current, but I haven't seen them for a wile. You could also choose 15W halogen that live even longer.

[MD]

Figured out the final culprit.    I opened up the switch and cleaned the contacts but that did not solve the problem.  Opened the bucket up and disconnected the buzzer again.  I now have blinking lights in the lock position.  It appears the buzzer acts like the single indicator light in other bikes.  If I want to use it I will have to isolate the direction of the power flow.  For now I will not use the buzzer.

Flasher unit used:  Lsgoodcare Car Turn Signal Blinker Light 3Pin Adjustable Electronic LED Flasher Relay

-MD

[evopgt]

MD.   Did your bike originally have a 2 pin?? Did you just use the extra flasher terminal on the 3 pin that most bikes come equipped with?? How did you determine which wire goes to which terminal on the flasher?? I may try this so I can get rid of the resistors.  Thanks.

[MD]

MD.   Did your bike originally have a 2 pin?? Did you just use the extra flasher terminal on the 3 pin that most bikes come equipped with?? How did you determine which wire goes to which terminal on the flasher?? I may try this so I can get rid of the resistors.  Thanks.

The bike came with a 2 pin flasher.  There is a extra ground wire not used near by.  The ground was easy to figure out.  The other two wires were a bit of trial and error.  In the picture below you can see the color progression of the wires.

Good luck,

-MD

[Mr.D]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. You're right it's not a big deal to leave in the old bulbs, especially in the rear signals that aren't on all the time as running lights. I might just leave them there and call it "good enough"! \

It was never about saving money or not having to replace bulbs (in fact it's a heck of a lot more money to use LEDs!), it was always just about having less draw on the electrical system.