Author Topic: Spare Change- First Bike (Read 25425 times)

Dads Toy · « **Reply #50 on:** January 11, 2018, 01:07:20 PM »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on January 11, 2018, 12:47:29 PM

I've used ATO/ATC blade fuse blocks on a couple of my bikes. You can buy a 6 fuse model and carry 2 extra fuses in the unused "channels."

That's what I thought. I saw a replacement block with ATO. Fuses which replaces the stock fuse bus. So if this F type fuse goes I have a upgrade ready.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #51 on:** January 14, 2018, 05:05:01 PM »

It is Alive....
The Clamps came in and was able to get the carbs mounted back up. At first I thought the clamps were going to be too small. Had to open them up all the way and slide them onto the boot. Good quality clamps. Thanks DV 750. Did some maintenance to the air box and battery holder. Still don't know where all of these hoses go. Or are they even needed. I plugged off two holes on the air box and still keep the crank vent hose at the top. All of the carb bowl hoses are mounted and ran down to under the bike. Got a battery from Walmart. Could have gotten one online and saved $2, but wanted one now and didn't want to have to wait for it. Paid the extra $2 just to have it in my hands now. Installed the battery and check everything out. Now I am getting really excited! All the lights, turn signals, brake lights and even the horn work.

Man I wanted to hear this thing run. So I took a long fuel hose and attached it to a empty mustard bottle. These come in handy when you are trying to fill something up. I used it as my fuel tank...lol Pulled the choke, turn the power on and push the starter button. Bam...started right up first try.

My $100 Spare Change bike lives and runs. Smoke a bit because of all the Mystery Oil I put in the cylinders. But it soon burned off. No leaks. I was worried that the cylinder head would leak oil. Then my Wife came out to the garage and informed me it was 12:30 at night and its too load. Buzz kill.

Now the problem. I still have a carburetor issue. It does run but with the help of the choke being on. So I am thinking I still have a idle passage hole still needs attention. I think I should get a carb rebuilt kit, if I can find one. And just spend the extra cash and get a carb cleaner bucket. Let everything soak and blast it with air. I thought for sure I had clear all the pilot holes out and was good to go. Unless I have a vacuum leak or need to attach some freaking vacuum hose some where.
But Hey it RUNS!!

MoMo · « **Reply #52 on:** January 14, 2018, 07:22:48 PM »

Were the midrange emulsifier tubes taken out? Either that or pilot jets. Good work...Larry

Dads Toy · « **Reply #53 on:** January 15, 2018, 08:27:37 AM »

Quote from: MoMo on January 14, 2018, 07:22:48 PM

Were the midrange emulsifier tubes taken out? Either that or pilot jets. Good work...Larry

Yes I was able to get the main jet and the idle tube out. I clean them and was able to blow air threw them. I even made sure the float needles moved. The thing on top of the needle. So the only thing I can think of is the area under the black guide, which the diaphragm needle slide on. The little hole under it or the gasket has failed. I did managed to find a kit on Ebay which has new O-rings, needles and floats. But it doesn't have a new accelerator diaphragm / rod. That would be nice to find a complete kit.

MoMo · « **Reply #54 on:** January 15, 2018, 08:35:01 AM »

Don't remember but have you done all the other stuff: valves, timing, plugs, trimmed off end of coil wires, cleaned connections from points to coil? ...Larry

Dads Toy · « **Reply #55 on:** January 15, 2018, 09:56:17 AM »

Quote from: MoMo on January 15, 2018, 08:35:01 AM

Don't remember but have you done all the other stuff: valves, timing, plugs, trimmed off end of coil wires, cleaned connections from points to coil? ...Larry

Valves good, Timing should be good. Plugs good, check them and they are all new NGK plugs. Trimmed off end of coil wires? Not sure what you mean by that. Points are solid state so no contact points.
It runs good but have to throttle the choke to keep it running. Which leads me to thinking its something to do with the carb. Or I have a vacuum leak some where.

754 · « **Reply #56 on:** January 15, 2018, 10:52:06 AM »

Low speed circuit sounds like , very easy for a newcomer to not get completely clean the first couple tries.
After you warm it a few more times you should drop about 1/2 qt of oil and have a look see., or the filter, or both
Tun it over a slanted piece of cardboard, check for debris.
Did you ever pull the tranny engine cover.. ?

MoMo · « **Reply #57 on:** January 15, 2018, 12:20:07 PM »

Quote from: Dads Toy on January 15, 2018, 09:56:17 AM

Quote from: MoMo on January 15, 2018, 08:35:01 AM
Don't remember but have you done all the other stuff: valves, timing, plugs, trimmed off end of coil wires, cleaned connections from points to coil? ...Larry
Valves good, Timing should be good. Plugs good, check them and they are all new NGK plugs. Trimmed off end of coil wires? Not sure what you mean by that. Points are solid state so no contact points.
It runs good but have to throttle the choke to keep it running. Which leads me to thinking its something to do with the carb. Or I have a vacuum leak some where.

Remove the spark plug caps by unscrewing and trim as little as you can off of the lead(inner wire gets frayed to the point of not being there). If it were vacuum, idle would race. Does sound like low speed circuitry as 754 said....Larry

DV Red Herring · « **Reply #58 on:** January 15, 2018, 04:09:11 PM »

I agree on the low speed circuit in the carbs. My slow speed jets were so coked with whatever gas turns into when it dries (like a very fine concrete) that soaking in cleaner, ultrasonic soaking, poking with various pokey tools, and prayers didn't work for the slow speed jets. Everything else cleaned up quickly and nicely. I ponied up for the idle jets and never looked back.

754 · « **Reply #59 on:** January 15, 2018, 04:46:57 PM »

Thats the easy part I think , its turning the corner in the teeny holes that is harder to clean.. do not use steel wire.

DV Red Herring · « **Reply #60 on:** January 15, 2018, 04:56:37 PM »

I think I got lucky there. The crud only went as high as the float level. The little jets were toast. The other orifices were big enough and high enough that after I soaked them, the ultrasonic finished them off. I hope the OP has that kind of luck.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #61 on:** January 15, 2018, 06:23:52 PM »

Didn't pull the trany cover off. When I got power and all the lights work I was overwhelmed with the thought if it would start.

Everything seems to be working right. So with it up on the center stand I put it into gear to see if the trans has forward motion. Yep works. Only issue is when its in gear and the clutch is engaged the wheel wants to keep spinning. Not like its under full power, just residual motion. And when you try and place it into another gear like 2nd. It has what I call trans click. Can't find them grind them. So the clutch needs adjusted or new clutch disk need replacing.
So it sounds like I need to pull the carbs again and try and clean them out again. This would be a good time to pony up and buy a kit so I can have new 0-rings. I really hate having to take these back off. It took me an hour to get the throttle and choke cables on. What a pain in the can

Other than the cables its and easy on/off. I took a infrared temp gun and measured the exhaust pipes. #4 is hot, 290+, #3 is about 98, #2 is 190 and #1 is about 101. So it looks like 1 and 3 are not firing right. Will look into measuring the spark plug wires and coils.
This gas tank is wasted. Thought about using it as a mold and make a fiberglass tank. Too much work and cost. When I can buy another one for about the same price.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #62 on:** January 15, 2018, 06:48:05 PM »

I found this carb kit on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-Carburetor-Carb-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-Float-81-82-CB650-CB-650-CB650C-CB650SC/222717201646?fits=Year%3A1981%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACB650C%7CSubmodel%3ACustom&epid=14010211872&hash=item33dafaccee:g:TJ0AAOSwVqlaCPG5&vxp=mtr
When I got done cleaning the carbs I was left with 3 small washers. Didn't know where they go. Just watch a video and I think they go on the bottom of the idle spring.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #63 on:** January 15, 2018, 07:06:05 PM »

mixture screw....take the mixture screw all the way out,put the spring over the screw, put that tiny washer over the screw so it rests against the spring, put the o-ring over the screw so it rests against the washer, now screw it all back in there, any of those missing in any of your carbs could be a big part of the problem

Dads Toy · « **Reply #64 on:** January 15, 2018, 07:50:01 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on January 15, 2018, 07:06:05 PM

mixture screw....take the mixture screw all the way out,put the spring over the screw, put that tiny washer over the screw so it rests against the spring, put the o-ring over the screw so it rests against the washer, now screw it all back in there, any of those missing in any of your carbs could be a big part of the problem

Awesome Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #65 on:** January 16, 2018, 06:43:49 AM »

Inspiration-When you see bikes like this one it in inspires you to move forward with your project.
https://greenville.craigslist.org/mcy/d/unique-1972-cb500-cafe-brat/6459336120.html

BobbyR · « **Reply #66 on:** January 16, 2018, 07:09:59 AM »

Quote from: Dads Toy on January 15, 2018, 06:23:52 PM

Didn't pull the trany cover off. When I got power and all the lights work I was overwhelmed with the thought if it would start.
Everything seems to be working right. So with it up on the center stand I put it into gear to see if the trans has forward motion. Yep works. Only issue is when its in gear and the clutch is engaged the wheel wants to keep spinning. Not like its under full power, just residual motion. And when you try and place it into another gear like 2nd. It has what I call trans click. Can't find them grind them. So the clutch needs adjusted or new clutch disk need replacing.
So it sounds like I need to pull the carbs again and try and clean them out again. This would be a good time to pony up and buy a kit so I can have new 0-rings. I really hate having to take these back off. It took me an hour to get the throttle and choke cables on. What a pain in the can Other than the cables its and easy on/off. I took a infrared temp gun and measured the exhaust pipes. #4 is hot, 290+, #3 is about 98, #2 is 190 and #1 is about 101. So it looks like 1 and 3 are not firing right. Will look into measuring the spark plug wires and coils.
This gas tank is wasted. Thought about using it as a mold and make a fiberglass tank. Too much work and cost. When I can buy another one for about the same price.

The rear wheel spins on these when it is off the ground. Perfectly normal.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #67 on:** January 16, 2018, 08:04:06 PM »

Well I took the carbs back off again. I think I see my problem. The mixture screw was missing the small washer under the spring. So I went ahead and removed everything again. I really think I should get a rebuild kit. Because the o-rings are flatten out. Just trying to find a complete kit that would include the accelerator pump.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #68 on:** January 17, 2018, 03:48:55 PM »

Well I think I found a kit that will work. The only parts missing is the floats and the accelerator pump. I think I found those parts as well on 4into1 site. Also need to replace the float bowl screws.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-Honda-Carburetor-Rebuild-Carb-Repair-Kit-CB650-C-SC-Custom-Nighthawk-81-82/332408138197?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47301%26meid%3Df5a4f78912af432f9d4a4849961c2c2c%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D222717201646&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

Question: I don't have a fuel pump diaphragm that I see in some pictures. Can you run it with out one? I also see there can be one on the petcock valve. What would be the best setup.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #69 on:** January 23, 2018, 06:41:55 PM »

Progress- The carb kits came in the mail from Florida. So onto the build. Was able to get everything replace. The kit came with more than enough o-rings to complete the job. Just wish it came with the float bowl screws and the floats. Well use what I got. I notice too the kit main jet is a #118 and the one coming off the carbs was #120. Don't know how that is going to play out. Set the idle mixture to 1 1/2 turns. Got everything hook back up. And started on the first try. Let it warm up and turned the choke off and idle out fine. Had to fine tune the idle speed a bit. Got it set a little high at 1050-1100rpm. Runs pretty good on Muster gas

, after she is warmed up. Was able to find screws at the hardware store for the rectifier / tool bracket. So all in I am about $200 or more on this project. Its running

So onto other issues. Still have to rebuild or replace the master brake cylinder for the front brakes. I have one front brake caliper that is lock up. So well have to rebuild it.
Still need tires and that will be the biggest expense. Gas Tank needs replace. There is no way to save this tank. Its so rusted the walls are paper thin. Maybe just run dual muster bottles....Then last thing will be to recover the seat. Daughter is going to help me with this. So not too bad right now. Have a running bike just using spare change.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #70 on:** January 25, 2018, 07:14:08 PM »

Major setback- Well since I got it to run. I need to get it to stop. In order to get it onto the trailer to the house. Had to remove one of the front brake calipers. Was lock onto the disk and wouldn't let the bike move. I took it off tonight and disassemble it. I couldn't get the piston to break free and was corroded into the caliper. Had to use a pipe wrench to get it to break free. I know not the right tool, but needed the leverage just to get it to turn. Worst case I would have to get a new piston and hone out the caliper. Oh no...I don't think I can save this puppy. So in search of a new master cylinder with handle and a new brake caliper. This will break the budget for sure. Where can I get a replacement caliper?

What do you think? Can it be saved? What would you do.

BobbyR · « **Reply #71 on:** January 26, 2018, 05:40:30 AM »

The piston looks toast with the rust. Everything else looks like dried brake fluid. Denatured Alcohol eats dried flud up very quickly, almost like magic. You may only need to new piston.

Dads Toy · « **Reply #72 on:** January 26, 2018, 08:43:51 AM »

Quote from: BobbyR on January 26, 2018, 05:40:30 AM

The piston looks toast with the rust. Everything else looks like dried brake fluid. Denatured Alcohol eats dried flud up very quickly, almost like magic. You may only need to new piston.

Thanks for the input. That little piece of metal is pretty pricey. In search of a new piston and seal kit.

crazypj · « **Reply #73 on:** January 26, 2018, 10:10:38 AM »

I'm broke, can I come and search down the back of your sofa?

Dads Toy · « **Reply #74 on:** January 26, 2018, 12:48:13 PM »

Quote from: crazypj on January 26, 2018, 10:10:38 AM

I'm broke, can I come and search down the back of your sofa?

Sorry I already cleaned out the sofa. I am now taking the storm door off and selling it. That should really piss the wife off.

News:

Author Topic: Spare Change- First Bike (Read 25425 times)