Author Topic: 1977 CB550K3 - Bringing it back from the dead. (Read 3860 times)

marccrabtreee · « **on:** March 10, 2018, 06:42:50 AM »

Hello my name is Marc I'm 53yrs. old I'm new to the forum and new to restoring motorcycles. A month ago I purchased a 1977 Honda CB550K, the bike was missing it's oil pan and battery. The front brakes are seized, fork seals leaking. The seat and tank were not properly attached and the bike is covered in years of grime. But i'm determined to make it look new again.

Over the past month I've started collecting the parts that I see I need (Oil Pan, Points Cover, Seat, Side Covers, Grips, Passenger Pegs, Levers, cables). The oli pan gasket arrived yesterday so I installed the oil pan and filled with oil I also did a compression test which read 140, 145, 130 and 138. Which I believe is good? I did attempt to start the bike and it gave a few barks but wouldn't fully start.

I had read here that since i'm such a newbie that I should do things in sections as opposed to stripping the bike completely but the frame has rust and ultimately I want to paint it so I've decided to remove everything. I'm going to keep a journal, take photos and shoot video of everything I do.

In the coming week i have time to work on the project but i'm sure it will be a slow process.

Thank you in advance for any guidance.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2018, 06:49:30 AM »

Photo

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2018, 06:51:03 AM »

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2018, 06:52:12 AM »

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2018, 06:53:18 AM »

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2018, 06:55:18 AM »

PGF550F · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:10:41 AM »

Ahh mastercraft... the mark of a fellow Canuck! Welcome aboard.
Looks like a pretty decent start. Too bad about the section of paint on the tank. It looks pretty good otherwise.

First thing I would do is download the service manual(available here on the forum) and do a full 3k mike service.
You will likely have to pull the carbs and clean the jets and passageways to get it running if it has sat for a while. Might not be a bad idea to drain out the gas in the tank and fill it up with known fresh gas too. Ethanol fuel has a pretty short shelf life.

Good luck. These things are a pile of fun.

Stev-o · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:33:18 AM »

Welcome, looks like a nice project. Yes, your compression should be fine, they are all within about 10% of each other. It could come up more after running a few hours.

Did you confirm you have spark at all four plugs?

Did you clean the carbs yet??

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:48:13 AM »

Quote from: PGF550F on March 10, 2018, 07:10:41 AM

Too bad about the section of paint on the tank. It looks pretty good otherwise.

Thanks PGF550F for the advice I will get on those steps asap. I have a quick question about the tank? It actually appears to be bondo or jb weld? so there may actually be a hole under there? I plan on stripping the paint, do you think I should mask off that area from being stripped or should i try to strip it as well?

Thanks!

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:53:41 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on March 10, 2018, 07:33:18 AM

Did you confirm you have spark at all four plugs?

Did you clean the carbs yet??

Thanks Steve-O!

To confirm spark is it as simple as pulling the plug and looking for a spark as you hit the starter?

Haven't cleaned the carbs yet but plan on checking out some youtube and doing it this week.

Thanks again.

DurangoCB · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2018, 07:57:40 AM »

Welcome! subscribed

Stev-o · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2018, 08:10:37 AM »

Quote from: marccrabtreee on March 10, 2018, 07:53:41 AM

Quote from: Stev-o on March 10, 2018, 07:33:18 AM

Did you confirm you have spark at all four plugs?

Did you clean the carbs yet??

Thanks Steve-O!

To confirm spark is it as simple as pulling the plug and looking for a spark as you hit the starter?

Yes, pull the plug, insert back into the plug cap and crank it over. Should have a nice blue spark. Easiest to see in a dark garage...rather than out in the sun shine.

PGF550F · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2018, 08:10:59 AM »

Confirming spark is as simple as pulling a plug and resting it against the motor to ground it and then kicking it over or use the starter. It helps if you start with a known good spark plug.

If your stripping the tank I would do the whole thing, if there is a dodgy fix under there you want to find it now, not after fresh paint.

I used a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder to strip the tanks I have done.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #13 on:** March 10, 2018, 11:31:06 AM »

Quote from: PGF550F on March 10, 2018, 08:10:59 AM

If your stripping the tank I would do the whole thing, if there is a dodgy fix under there you want to find it now, not after fresh paint. I used a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder to strip the tanks I have done.

Yes that makes sense.

And your tank actually looks really cool in it's stripped form.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2018, 07:48:26 PM »

I checked all four spark plugs and they are all firing

, also drained the gas from the tank and put in fresh gas but I don't feel confidant enough yet to touch the carbs. I need tackle some easier tasks and build some confidence, so I removed the front brake caliber and master cylinder. The brakes are seized and there was little fluid in the system, the pads wouldn't budge. I used compressed air but not luck, I baked them in the oven at 450f for 45mins and was able to pry out the skinny side with a screwdriver but the piston side won't budge. I soaked it in Acetone last night and borrowed a grease gun from a friend but it won't fit my flex hose. I'm going to pick up a grease gun tomorrow.

If grease won't get it out I read in a post that I could drive a screw into the middle of the pad and try to pry it off? but I'm worried i will damage the piston.

I purchased a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, i'm going to install it tomorrow.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2018, 07:50:55 PM »

Stev-o · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2018, 08:30:52 PM »

You should have tried to pump the piston out before disconnecting the brake lines.

Many of us don't rebuild master cylinders as good re-pops are available for just slightly more than the rebuild kit.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2018, 05:07:18 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on March 11, 2018, 08:30:52 PM

You should have tried to pump the piston out before disconnecting the brake lines.

Many of us don't rebuild master cylinders as good re-pops are available for just slightly more than the rebuild kit.

I know but the system had no brake fluid in it so i figured the compressed air would be just as effective (didn't realize how stuck the pads were?) and I did consider getting an after market master cylinder but I didn't like the look of it as much as the original.

Thanks!

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:19:51 PM »

The grease gun was successful in pumping out the brake pad and piston. Piston is in nice condition. the brake pad had a small plastic ring between it and the caliper, I don't see it in the parts fiche and don't have one with my new brake pad? Anyone seen it before?

Also removed the side kickstand and the exhaust, I hadn't realized how dirty the Cylinder heads were. The valves appeared yellow, is it safe for me to clean around the exhaust ports?

I cleaned the left exhaust assembly. I was amazed at how clean I was able to get the joints and collars. I soaked them in degreaser for a couple hours, scrubbed them clean then put them in Muriatic acid for 30mins. because the joints were so dirty I didn't realize that they were originally coated with either chrome or paint which the acid caused to chip off but it's ok as the amount of rust was extreme.

I cleaned one muffler with diet coke and tinfoil which worked really well on the surface rust but there were areas of heavy rust which I used steel wool on. I ordered Oxalic Acid on Amazon today to clean the remaining chrome with. I also soaked the muffler ends with vinegar and then wire brushed them, I couldn't believe that it got all of the rust out, but the headers may be a lost cause and i haven't been able to find any aftermarket ones that allow you to still use the exhaust joints? The cleaning is definitely my favorite part of the restore.

I also attempted to polish my aluminum caliper holder by hand and using a dremel, it looks so-so for a huge amount of work. Tomorrow i'm going to buy a bench grinder!

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #19 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:21:37 PM »

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #20 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:23:17 PM »

AlBundy · « **Reply #21 on:** March 13, 2018, 04:50:37 AM »

Quote from: marccrabtreee on March 12, 2018, 07:19:51 PM

The grease gun was successful in pumping out the brake pad and piston. Piston is in nice condition. the brake pad had a small plastic ring between it and the caliper, I don't see it in the parts fiche and don't have one with my new brake pad? Anyone seen it before?

Also removed the side kickstand and the exhaust, I hadn't realized how dirty the Cylinder heads were. The valves appeared yellow, is it safe for me to clean around the exhaust ports?

I cleaned the left exhaust assembly. I was amazed at how clean I was able to get the joints and collars. I soaked them in degreaser for a couple hours, scrubbed them clean then put them in Muriatic acid for 30mins. because the joints were so dirty I didn't realize that they were originally coated with either chrome or paint which the acid caused to chip off but it's ok as the amount of rust was extreme.

I cleaned one muffler with diet coke and tinfoil which worked really well on the surface rust but there were areas of heavy rust which I used steel wool on. I ordered Oxalic Acid on Amazon today to clean the remaining chrome with. I also soaked the muffler ends with vinegar and then wire brushed them, I couldn't believe that it got all of the rust out, but the headers may be a lost cause and i haven't been able to find any aftermarket ones that allow you to still use the exhaust joints? The cleaning is definitely my favorite part of the restore.

I also attempted to polish my aluminum caliper holder by hand and using a dremel, it looks so-so for a huge amount of work. Tomorrow i'm going to buy a bench grinder!

Had also the plastic ring in my calipers. Couldn't find it in the diagram but I used it anyway. Maybe it's there to give better room for grease or to provent the piston from corrosion. I don't know, just my thoughts.

If you look at these brake pads from David Silver the ring is included. https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB500K1-FOUR-1972/part_61430/

AlBundy · « **Reply #22 on:** March 13, 2018, 04:52:57 AM »

Also. Don't forget to change the o-rings and to grease the pin in the caliper holder.

marccrabtreee · « **Reply #23 on:** March 13, 2018, 05:31:15 AM »

Quote from: AlBundy on March 13, 2018, 04:52:57 AM

Also. Don't forget to change the o-rings and to grease the pin in the caliper holder.

Got it, thanks!

spuds · « **Reply #24 on:** March 13, 2018, 06:28:53 AM »

Fellow Canuck----greetings from Ottawa.

Nice looking project you have there.

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Author Topic: 1977 CB550K3 - Bringing it back from the dead. (Read 3860 times)