Topic: help with carb cleaning/stripping

[amamet]

i have the carbs for my 76 cb400f stripped down as far as i can get them, i want to soak them in carb cleaner (gunk brand with the parts strainer).  my question is do i have to remove the butterfly assembly and all the brass fittings?  i think i have removed all the rubber and plastic parts, unless i am missing something i cannot see.

allen

p.s.- also, how do you remove the floats brass pin if they are really tight or corroded, this is a different set of carbs i want to rebuild but cannot remove the pin without the help of a hammer and awl, i am afraid of breaking the cast piece that holds them. 

[medic09]

I don't know the 400 carbs, so I'll only make a suggestion re: the float pin.  Spray it with a really good penetrating agent-I like Deep Creep, which is Seafoam in an aerosol.  Let it sit a bit.  I work in a cold garage, with closed (oil-filled) heaters running.  After letting it sit, I put the carbs on the radiators (they're not very hot) with the stuck piece facing down to the heat.  It's not hot enough to melt or warp anything, but I've found that after an hour or so it often warms the aluminum just enough that things (like my slow jets) will now budge with less force.  Take a pick or awl that's much smaller than the hole in the post, place it on the pin, and give a gentle tap or two with a very light hammer.  You want to contact only the pin, not the posts.  I have a soft metal face/plastic face that I use for this kind of stuff.  A 'modelling' hammer would work, too.

Works for me...couldn't hurt to try.

Good luck!

[Jugghead]

Another tip i found useful was to try tapping the pins out one way.
 if they don't come out, try tapping them out the other way.  worked for my 350F spare carbs.
good luck, search the forums, there is literally TONs of archives on this issue.

[martin.g.g]

I use cellouse thinners,soaking alloy and brass bits over night, but you must remove all the plastic and rubber bits. Finlay blowing all the gallery's through with an aresol carb cleaner the an air line. Don't forger the emulsion tubed that the carb slide needle slides into (its a push fit and comes out from the float bowl side after the main jet is removed). If left left in it won't be cleaned and the small holes in it will remain blocked

[BobbyR]

You may find this odd, but I saked my carb parts in pure simple green and it dissolved most everything. No fumes and it works better than gumout. I posted these results and other agreed it works. It does not eat rubber. Wet down the pins with WD 40 let it soak  and then tap them out with a finishing nail with the point ground flat.