Topic: 1975 Honda cb750F Project.

[BenelliSEI]

I wrote this for our CVMG Magazine, thought it might work here too?
 I purchased my 1975 Honda cb750F1 from Toronto CVMG Member Nick Acosta. Having spent most of my time on my recent Benelli 750 SEI Distraction, I started looking for another Honda. I was looking for a K5 but I’ve never had an F.  Nick got the bike from another CVMG member, “Bruce”. Nice to know it’s been owned by people that care for their machines. At some point, in the recent past, the bike was down to a bare frame. Paint on the chassis, running gear, and tank/bodywork was completed by John Connery Paint. The frame was prepped, primed and painted gloss black (as original) and the tank and seat cowl are a spectacular “Sunrise Flake Orange”. The correct factory stripes and decals were applied flawlessly and then beautifully clear coated. Kudos to Connery. As an aside, I discovered he had painted my Benelli too.
           Nick had the engine out, freshened the top end and applied a fresh coat of silver paint. He polished the alloy covers and bolted up a beautiful, stainless Delkevic exhaust. Then Hindle (another local shop) fitted a stylish, stainless muffler, that really compliments the overall appearance. The original 4-1 Honda System is fairly massive, and virtually unobtainable (trades for stupid money), so I’ve decided to keep it the way it is.  He also built an amazing, new set of side covers, using a 3D PRINTER! Connery applied the correct black finish. Altogether a great looking bike. The attached photo was what caught my eye on KIJIJI. Nick was anxious to move on to another project, so I picked up the bike in late Fall of 2018.
         I rode the motorcycle for a quick 30-40 kilometres blast, and concluded it ran as well as it looks. The exhaust system is relatively quiet, but has a nice “rip” when pushed....... I noted a few changes I wanted to make, thinking it would take a few days. As usual, it morphed into a bit more.
         First item was the brakes. They seemed a bit softer than my other Hondas. The 1975 cb750F1 was the first year of this model. Changes from the more touring cb750K included a rear disc brake. Faced with a totally seized rear master cylinder, Nick had used a smaller, “universal” aftermarket type. The rear rotor is an EBC, Nick drilled the front to match. A little research and I discovered the “F” used the same master as a GL1000 Gold Wing. Quick advert in the CVMG News, and I had a used one a few days later. Fresh pushrod, seals and boot, it bolted right in. At the front, the brake caliper was weeping. A new seal and pads put it right. The master cylinder got a good cleaning (no parts required) and a fresh coat of paint. Apex Brakes made me a nice set of new, black hoses. Brakes are now back to the expected performance level.
           The bike was on a set of older, mismatched tires and the rear was looking especially sad. When I pulled it off,  I thought the back rim looked good. Actually, it was completely rotten. It collapsed, and folded inwards as I pried off the old tire. Polished up the hub and laced up new spokes, to a new rim. It looked so good, I tore apart the front, cleaned everything and added a new set of spokes to that end too. Most of my replica parts come from <vintgecb750.com>. A great, Ontario based company. They keep a huge inventory and my orders arrive complete, and next day. Can’t say enough about them. While the front was in the air, I polished up the fork legs and replaced the seals. I had a front fender in my inventory that looked better than the original, so that went on too. I have bins of the correct Honda hardware (too many past projects) so I replaced many of the old fasteners with the correct, new ones. Nothing beats a shiny “8” bolt.
             Right at the start, I’d removed all the bodywork and put it safely away. I noticed a broken front ignition coil mount, when inspecting a new wiring harness that Nick installed. While the coils were on the bench being repaired (thanks JB Weld), I pulled out a brand new “C5 Electronic Ignition Kit” that came with another purchase. It’s an optically triggered system and includes a weird set of coils. I fooled around a bit, fabricated a mounting system (no modifications to the bike) and decided to tackle it next. Rather than modify the new bike harness, I built a completely separate loom for the C5. (never burn any bridges, and leave an escape route). Several days later, it was all installed and working beautifully. Stripping down the area above the engine lead to a few other projects. Float bowl breather hoses are no longer missing, fuel lines and filter are new, the airbox came out, cleaned and polished. Meguirs’ make a great product called “Back to Black”. Available at Canadian Tire, it is designed for automotive black bumpers and trim. A few coats really brings old plastic parts back to life. To get a degree wheel on the crank (for the ignition installation) I had to pull off the chain, gearbox and stator covers (more polish, new gaskets and seals). While the degree wheel was in place, may as well adjust valve clearances and cam chain tension. All this to replace a broken coil mount!
             Also changed some turn signals and stalks for a shinier set I had stashed away, repaired ground wires and some other details. One thing leads to another...... The speedo and tach bases had lost much of their chrome and wouldn’t you know it? Honda still sells them. $$$$ + tax and the front end is a bit shinier. Now I’m thinking the instruments need cleaner faces and a coat of black paint! The seat cover had a small tear down the left side, so I I ordered a replacement. The first one that came was too thick and really not the correct pattern. Second time provided a really nice one, perfect fit and match. The original Honda fittings, for the chrome strips down each side of the seat had perished. No longer available, I had to make my own. The end result was worth it. Smooth, good looking installation, that really finishes off the motorcycle. Finally, I screwed in the adaptor pipes to hook up my carb synchronizing tool. Bike fired instantly, and by the time it was warmed up, ignition timing and the carbs done. Oil and filter change came next, seat and tank back on........ Done. Who says Winter is too long!

[754]

Nice bike.
 Why did you use the degree wheel ?
 I should mention, you need  not  pull the trans cover to get the alternator cover off.

[BenelliSEI]

I pulled all the covers to give them a good clean and polish...... the C5 Power Arc Ignition Kit I have is new, but a few years old. The installation called for setting the crank at TDC and then installing the “rotor” so that it had the slotted opening lined up with optical reader. A small LED light comes “ON” on the fixed plate. I wanted to ensure I stayed exactly at TDC while tightening it up, so I installed a degree wheel and pointer on the other side. When done, I was able to roll the motor 360 degrees and make sure the lamp came on at exactly TDC......
Probably a bit “anal” but it bugged me that by removing the stock advancer plate, I could no longer check timing any other way. Probably a waste of time, but with 2’ of snow all around my shop, not really in a rush to finish!

[BenelliSEI]

Got the finished project downoff the lift table today. The new seat cover looks great! Took a few photos, parked it by the door, ready for SPRING! two feet of snow outside the door.........

[seanbarney41]

Really beautiful, especially the paint...sidecovers are actually a metallic charcoal color.  Here is a picture of an original.
DSCN1061 by Sean Barney, on Flickr

[BenelliSEI]

I think that’s what Connery tried for with the paint. Mine are probably a bit too dark..... oh well, I’ll have to live with it! These are pretty neat, the previous owner made them with a laser printer! Smart, young engineer!

[Bankerdanny]

Here is my side cover. I painted it using Dupli-Color Matte Black Metallic custom removable wrap coating. They offer a clear coat that I could use to add a gloss if I wanted.

[Sveinung1978]

Got the finished project downoff the lift table today. The new seat cover looks great! Took a few photos, parked it by the door, ready for SPRING! two feet of snow outside the door.........

Hi, nice bike. I am working on an identical project, 1975 F0 which will be transfered back to the original orange color.
On the pictures it looks like the engine block, cylinders and top end all are painted, is that correct?  I have been back and forth on panting the cylinders and top end concerned     about discoloring due to heat. Do you have experience or recomendations related to engine paint and heat issues?

Thanks

Sveinung


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[jamesw]

Got the finished project downoff the lift table today. The new seat cover looks great! Took a few photos, parked it by the door, ready for SPRING! two feet of snow outside the door.........

Hi, nice bike. I am working on an identical project, 1975 F0 which will be transfered back to the original orange color.
On the pictures it looks like the engine block, cylinders and top end all are painted, is that correct?  I have been back and forth on panting the cylinders and top end concerned     about discoloring due to heat. Do you have experience or recomendations related to engine paint and heat issues?

Thanks

Sveinung


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Sveinung;

If you need the tank decal for flake orange, I have a spare I could sell.

[BenelliSEI]

I usually paint all my engines with a Duplicate-Color Engine Paint. Aluminum paint code 1615. They all sell a grey “filler primer” for use under that paint. I think it does an outstanding job, and is a VERY close match for the original Honda finish. I paint it all. It usually smokes and stinks a bit for the first couple of engine heat cycles, but after that, very durable and assuming the surface is prepped, very clean and the ambient temp is warm enough, no flacking or fading, in my experience. Oil resistant and cleans up well.
   
Having said all that, the ‘75 750F engine was painted by the previous owner. He used a “Eastwood Aluminum Engine Block Paint”. Again, very close match and holding up extremely well.......

[Sveinung1978]

Got the finished project downoff the lift table today. The new seat cover looks great! Took a few photos, parked it by the door, ready for SPRING! two feet of snow outside the door.........

Hi, nice bike. I am working on an identical project, 1975 F0 which will be transfered back to the original orange color.
On the pictures it looks like the engine block, cylinders and top end all are painted, is that correct?  I have been back and forth on panting the cylinders and top end concerned     about discoloring due to heat. Do you have experience or recomendations related to engine paint and heat issues?

Thanks

Sveinung


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Sveinung;

If you need the tank decal for flake orange, I have a spare I could sell.

Thanks, but I have a new set.


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[josherr]

Got the finished project downoff the lift table today. The new seat cover looks great! Took a few photos, parked it by the door, ready for SPRING! two feet of snow outside the door.........

Hi, nice bike. I am working on an identical project, 1975 F0 which will be transfered back to the original orange color.
On the pictures it looks like the engine block, cylinders and top end all are painted, is that correct?  I have been back and forth on panting the cylinders and top end concerned     about discoloring due to heat. Do you have experience or recomendations related to engine paint and heat issues?

Thanks

Sveinung


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Sveinung;

If you need the tank decal for flake orange, I have a spare I could sell.

Hello
Im interested in the decal set, how much are you looking to sell It for
Thank you


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[Sveinung1978]

I usually paint all my engines with a Duplicate-Color Engine Paint. Aluminum paint code 1615. They all sell a grey “filler primer” for use under that paint. I think it does an outstanding job, and is a VERY close match for the original Honda finish. I paint it all. It usually smokes and stinks a bit for the first couple of engine heat cycles, but after that, very durable and assuming the surface is prepped, very clean and the ambient temp is warm enough, no flacking or fading, in my experience. Oil resistant and cleans up well.
   
Having said all that, the ‘75 750F engine was painted by the previous owner. He used a “Eastwood Aluminum Engine Block Paint”. Again, very close match and holding up extremely well.......

Thanks for the feedback.
I have been looking at the Dupli-Color paint, but it seem to be hard to get in Norway. I have a source for the Eastwood paint, so I might go with that. Do you know if it was used primer prior to the Eastwood paint?

Sveinung


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[BenelliSEI]

“1978”...... he did not use any primer with the Eastwood. Good Luck!