Topic: Clutch plates 1976 cb 750 supersport

[Brianskunk]

I need some advice. I replaced my clutch plates without noticing one was different. One of the metal discs  has rivets in it. Can someone tell me the order to replace the plates? Where does this “ different “ one go? I’ve watched a million videos and nowhere is it mentioned that one of the metal discs is unique. Not even In the shop manual. I would have assumed they all just alternate metal disc/ friction disc but where does the odd one go? Please help! Thanks

[bryanj]

In the middle of the stack

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Unless you have an extremely late 76 F it has either had the "field fix" done or the entire basket  and clutch cover replaced. The field fix was used to help eliminate the somewhat inherent clutch rattle. It involved using a 75 - 79 GL double metal riveted plate or the later 77/78 plate (one in the same). To do this 1 friction disc had to be removed. If you have the 77/78 clutch the basket is slightly deeper to accommodate the double disc AND all the friction discs. This also uses a thicker 77/78 clutch cover. The "field fix" is posted somewhere here.

Compare what you found with the microfiche picture of a 77/78 F or K.     

[PeWe]

So this clutch was introduced that early in F?
My K6 -76 has the old style with 6 metal discs all the same.
7 fibers but outer different with wider tabs.
Fiber discs same as the later F2, K7.....

If using the later double plate disc in this clutch means 1 metal and 1 fiber to goo. Clutch might slip at hard riding.

My K6 got the later clutch last winter. From an F2 (same in K7)
Deeper steel basket, depeer alu hub to house the wider clutch pack. The other alu with 4 towers for springs same as before.

This means harder spring pretension so I could skip the extra washer I had under the springs that are harder than stock.

A really good improvement!! Clutch feels much better and more stable with no rattle.

A must when engine has got more horses,  torque in focus.
1000cc was bad on the old clutch design!

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

PeWe, I'm away from all my literature but the very last end of the (our) F1 in 1976 had the upgraded clutch. The 75 F and almost all of the 76 F's had the mid K style up until 77 clutch like your 76 K. It basically changed in 77 and 78.

[Brianskunk]

So , after changing the plates, the bike actually went into gear, but only the first three. I got no response on 4 and 5. Also, it was rattling like hell. Any ideas anyone has?

[PeWe]

Is the bike a roller? You roll bike or at least rotate front sprocket when shifting?
If not, problem to shift which is normal.

[Brianskunk]

Im afraid I don’t understand what you are saying

[PeWe]

You have problem to find the gears when riding the bike?

If you have, reason can be a missing washer or flipped when you assembled the clutch.

Washer under the clutch center nut is "cupole" shaped (item 14). It must sit with it's cupole outwards to work as a spring. There is a bend washer between to lock the center nut.
If something is missing it will cause a play.

The clutch had the splined washer mounted on the shaft before clutch pack went in (item 13)?

I often use the charts cmsnl has to see how things are mounted, bolt/screw lenghts etc.

The double metal plate IS included!   From engine serial number: 2558989

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750f1-super-sport-1976-general-export-mph_model14679/partslist/E08.html#.XqPdFreeyKo

Good idea to look for the entire build, clutch cover too and eventual other things changed just before this started to occur.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750f1-super-sport-1976-general-export-mph_model14679/partslist/#.XqPd47eeyKp

[Brianskunk]

For a little while, I could shift one, two and three normally. When I tried four and five, there was no “click” to engage the gear. I could only go t9 three then back down. But all this time it was rattling like crazy. Then I pulled it into the garage and the rattling got really bad, like somethimg was going to break. So I shut it off....