Topic: Bulb for Gauge Lights?

[jakec]

I have read here for gauge bulbs:

1. Do not use LEDs (they are directional and won't light correctly)
2. Do not use manual specified #57 bulbs (they don't fit anymore)
3. Use only 3W bulbs (not the more common 4W) as higher wattage can get too hot.

That said, does anyone know the definitively correct # bulb?

#51 seems to be the correct size and shape, but is only 1.65 watts.
#53 has a slightly longer base (may be too large) and still only 1.70 watts.

[Pielz]

I used these. They're LED and cheap but they're not directional and are a heck of a lot brighter at only 2.2w. haven't given me a problem in a year
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P1FNJG/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_xmgQEbJSF85PQ

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[jakec]

Asked & answered, thank you.

[Bankerdanny]

I used LED's on my 550F. For the gauge backlights they are great. For the warning lights I wouldn't bother. None of them are on all the time, so there is no savings in term of power draw and they are more expensive.

Here is a night shot. The tach has a full replacement face and the speedo is the original face. OEM was painted top and bottom. The replacement is just a sticker on top of a clear plastic base, so it lets the backlight shine through the face and not just around the edges. Even so, you can see how much brighter and easier to read the tach is. The neutral light is also LED as is the headlight and the just visible front running lights/turn signals.

In actual use the tach was perfectly legible, but I wouldn't have minded if it were not as bright.

[jakec]

Thanks Danny. My dash bulbs are not all the same brightness (some may be going out soon) and the amazon linke was for a 10 pack. So I think I will replace all.

As for you second photo, my gauges are also rebuilt. I noticed in photos here on the forum how the new faces let more light through, so I spray painted the backs of mine green. Don't have a photo of them illuminated yet.

[Bankerdanny]

If I were to reface another set of gauges in the future I will definitely be painting the backs. The single faced replacement worked ok, but definitely wasn't as legible in the dark as the OEM faced gauge. It wasn't as bad as it looked in the photo, but it was noticeable.  I do recommend replacing the front running light bulbs and the tail/brake light. The LED's are much brighter and easier to see in the daylight. I kept the regular style in back, so I didn't need to run resistors for my turn signals to flash.

[Pielz]

I replaced my indicator lights as well considering it was a 10 pack. I'll never forget my turn signal is on now, they're almost blinding haha

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[Deltarider]

Led is too bright and annoyes when out there on a dark road even more when the road is a bit bumpy. For me the 3 Watts conventional dash bulb, as used in millions of cars, is perfect. It's a direct fit, no modifications needed, no hasle. Stylish and cheap too.

[Pielz]

Led is too bright and annoyes when out there on a dark road. For me the 3 Watts conventional dash bulb, as used in millions of cars, is perfect. It's a direct fit, no modifications needed, no hasle. Cheap too.

Where did you find the conventional ones cheap? I didn't have a ton of luck. That's why I went with a pack of LEDs cause they're readily available on Amazon and were like a dollar a piece

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[Deltarider]

Mine are Philips. Philips happens to be a first supplier of original equipment. The package is in the garage. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Recently I've rearranged the wiring so that with the DRL on, dash and tail lights are extinct. That's an 18 Watts saved . On entering a tunnel, I just slide the switch to P which brings the dash and tail on.

[jlh3rd]

I used LED's on my 550F. For the gauge backlights they are great. For the warning lights I wouldn't bother. None of them are on all the time, so there is no savings in term of power draw and they are more expensive.

Here is a night shot. The tach has a full replacement face and the speedo is the original face. OEM was painted top and bottom. The replacement is just a sticker on top of a clear plastic base, so it lets the backlight shine through the face and not just around the edges. Even so, you can see how much brighter and easier to read the tach is. The neutral light is also LED as is the headlight and the just visible front running lights/turn signals.

In actual use the tach was perfectly legible, but I wouldn't have minded if it were not as bright.

No, the honda OEM faceplate is not painted green, it is a green ,translucent plastic , painted on the front, as shown in the top of the picture compared to the " marcel" aftermarket faceplate which is a white plastic painted green on the face. shown below the honda. Also, the OEM faceplate is painted white on the edge. This is how honda gets their night illumination.
     Here is a set of gauges I redid. , the speedo is NOS ,but the tach is a Marcel aftermarket faceplate.
To replicate the Honda glow, I found translucent,stick on film, Oracal transparent Cal 8300. I used two layers of the material to replicate the honda backlighting. It's real close. One layer was too light and three were too dark..
      here are pics of the green honda faceplate and the white aftermarket one, the sheet of translucent stick on, and the redone tach..

[Pielz]

Wow good idea!

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[jlh3rd]

I have read here for gauge bulbs:

1. Do not use LEDs (they are directional and won't light correctly)
2. Do not use manual specified #57 bulbs (they don't fit anymore)
3. Use only 3W bulbs (not the more common 4W) as higher wattage can get too hot.

That said, does anyone know the definitively correct # bulb?

#51 seems to be the correct size and shape, but is only 1.65 watts.
#53 has a slightly longer base (may be too large) and still only 1.70 watts.

#57.....so,who says we're not supposed to use these? They fit my stock 550F

[Bankerdanny]

No, the honda OEM faceplate is not painted green, it is a green ,translucent plastic , painted on the front, as shown in the top of the picture compared to the " marcel" aftermarket faceplate which is a white plastic painted green on the face. shown below the honda. Also, the OEM faceplate is painted white on the edge. This is how honda gets their night illumination.
     Here is a set of gauges I redid. , the speedo is NOS ,but the tach is a Marcel aftermarket faceplate.
To replicate the Honda glow, I found translucent,stick on film, Oracal transparent Cal 8300. I used two layers of the material to replicate the honda backlighting. It's real close. One layer was too light and three were too dark..
      here are pics of the green honda faceplate and the white aftermarket one, the sheet of translucent stick on, and the redone tach..

Great info. Thanks.

[evinrude7]

leds in dash and clocks.  significantly brighter.  no issues.  got them from superbrightleds.com if i recall correctly i ordered the widest beam angle they offered.

[Deltarider]

I personally do not need a bright dash, I want a glowing dash. This is what I have: Philips T3W. Product code 12910CP. Ba9s, so a direct fit. Dead cheap, 28 lumens each and a lifetime of 500 hrs. As said, I've rearranged the wiring thus, that with DRL on, dash and tail lights are extinct. That's an 18 Watts saved and bulbs live forever this way. On entering a tunnel, I just slide the switch to P which brings the dash and tail on. Recommended.

[PeWe]

Stock illumination is nice! I bought LEDs for my K2 build. The pilot LED bulbs stopped work after a few minutes, one by one. 12V LED. Replaced by the old good bulbs type BA9S 3W something.

My tacho on my K6 is a restored one with new face, unfortunately shining thru the face plate. Stock does not shine thru, beside.

BA9S 0.6W was the weakest bulb I could find to match the stock speedo with 3.4W bulbs.
0.4W should probably look better.

BA9S bulbs are standard found everywhere except the grocery shops and restrooms
BA9S 3.4W. A little bit less no problems.

Too bright light in the gauges is not comfortable when riding in the darkness.