Author Topic: 1975 CB750F strange clutch issue after a pull apart to check slipping issues.  (Read 1927 times)

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Offline kaptainkid1

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1975 CB750F with 26k miles and I was getting slipping in 2nd gear on full throttle.
I decided to pull the clutch apart. Pulled the clutch and plates apart to check the clutch disc. Nothing was found and all bolts we're wrench down to specs.
So I broke the clutch lifter plate and got a used replacement.
After putting everything back together. The new issues I can't shift into gear its seems when I pull the clutch in now it very stiff and I can see the clutch housing flexing and it try's to engage the clutch. That's not normal and when I let the clutch go not in gear 1st or 2nd. I have feeling the clutch lifter plate isn't engaging the clutch properly. The center bearing in the clutch lifter plate is very snug. I don't have the bearing sliding in the clutch lifter plate but firm set in. Is this correct?
I've tried many adjustments on the clutch adjustment screw and not proper shift engagement. What else can be the problem?

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« Last Edit: December 27, 2020, 02:00:46 AM by kaptainkid1 »
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Offline bryanj

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Sounds like you may have the lifter plate on wrong, it has to engage with the centre teeth as well as bolts line up. OR the mechanism/cable adjustment is very wrong
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Offline StockRider

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Never experienced the same symptoms but I recommend this tutorial for checking your work:

http://vintage-and-classic-honda-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/How-to-change-and-adjust-a-clutch-SOHC-td4040391.html
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Offline low-side

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I agree with brianj.  It sounds like the top plate isn't lined up properly so it isn't moving so the mechanism is moving the cover instead.

Offline kaptainkid1

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Never experienced the same symptoms but I recommend this tutorial for checking your work:

http://vintage-and-classic-honda-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/How-to-change-and-adjust-a-clutch-SOHC-td4040391.html
I'm installing my clutch systems about 100% correct to your tutorial. I will pull it apart again and record my pull apart and reinstall so guys can double check issues. Maybe its something I'm not doing something wrong. Thanks for the link.

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Offline kaptainkid1

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Can anyone here help me resolve my gear shifting issue? It seems my 26k miles CB750 is not shifting into gears with the clutch lever anymore. I've taken apart the clutch plates and do not see any issues except for the clutch does engage properly anymore after taking it apart 3 times.


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Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Do you have the pack installed correctly? You may need to rotate it one tooth to make it fit properly. It should all work without any further "adjustments" if it worked before.

Also considering you messed up one lifter plate just be sure you are doing that correctly. It's hard to describe but much easier to break a tab. That's how we all learn. Someone out there is making a HD lifter plate now other than our Bud that used to do it. 
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline newday777

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Can anyone here help me resolve my gear shifting issue? It seems my 26k miles CB750 is not shifting into gears with the clutch lever anymore. I've taken apart the clutch plates and do not see any issues except for the clutch does engage properly anymore after taking it apart 3 times.

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Your words are kinda jumbled (I assume you didn't proofread your text before hitting post) and missing words I'm assuming? 

"not shifting into gears with the clutch lever anymore. "
What's it doing when you try to go into gear? Grinding gears and not slipping into gear?

My wonder is...did you assemble it correctly each time?
When you took it apart each time, did you pull it apart and lay it out in order as you took it apart so it went back together in proper order and position?
Is the conical washer on the bolt in the proper direction?(it won't operate if backwards)
Stu
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My current rides
1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
1976 K6 Anteres Red rebuilding project, was originally my brother's that I set up from the crate, it'll breath again soon!
Project 750s, 2 K4, 2 K6, 1 K8
2008 GL1800 my daily ride and cross country runner

Prior bikes....
1972 Suzuki GT380 I had charge of it for a year in 1973 while my friend was deployed and learned to love street riding....
New CB450 K7 after my friend returned...
New CB750 K5 Planet Blue, demise by ex cousin in law at 9,000 miles...
New CB750 K6 Anteres Red, to replace the totaled K5, I sold this K6 at 45k in 1983, I had heavily modified it, many great memories on it and have missed it greatly.....
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Offline PeWe

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The washer under the clutch center nut probably flipped wrong. It is convex with its "bulb" outwards.

Slipping clutch can be old clutch fibers.
If engine is modified with much more torque metal plates need to be glass beaded.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline ekpent

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Sounds like the 'teeth' are not lining up correctly when its getting put back together as that can break that plate also.

Offline kaptainkid1

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Let me start off by saying my last post I was very frustrated and lack the mindset to explain my problems.
I had a video of my clutch tear down and re-install. This video can not transfer or upload due my computer issues. So I have to say I installed all the parts correctly.

According to DIY instruction:
https://wrenchandspanner.wordpress.com/2014/12/20/how-to-change-and-adjust-a-clutch-sohc/

Recap of my issues:
1. Why I took apart my clutch? The bike drove fine until it started to pop of gear second and 3rd on hard pulls.
2. I took apart my clutch 2 years ago to inspect any damage or apparent issues. I could not find any but once the clutch was taken apart it would not engage the clutch lever correctly or function properly once reinstalled.

3. Can not engage "Clutch Lever" by the Clutch case. This Clutch lever is adjusted correctly and became issue right after I took apart the Clutch to inspect any issues.
When taking apart the clutch I did not see any metal filings in the oil, broken parts or damaged clutch basket. All the parts, spline washer, clutch friction disc and clutch lifter plates was installed to Honda specs. I followed the DIY instruction above link. Plus I had the Honda CB750 manual as well.

4. When engaging the clutch lever it feels like the clutch lifter plate isn't depressing inside the clutch basket. I can see the Clutch case flexing instead of the proper engagement. It will not shift into gear with engine off, I tried shift into 1st gear and the neutral light is turned off letting me know it's in 1st gear but will spins freely and is not engage to the engine block.

Does anyone know what my problem is?
I have a spare cb750 clutch basket and gear in photos.
Is this problem an engine tear down?



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Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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You are overthinking. Something we are ALL guilty of. Forget those DIY instructions.

You do NOT have the clutch pack installed in the basket correctly as I see from the assembled picture. It is sticking out too far. You either have too many plates, a double plate in an earlier basket, or as has been mentioned a couple times previously you need to turn the pack 1 tooth inside the basket to make it mesh properly. The dogs/tits on that last plate should fit inside the "tangs" of the basket. Remove the lifter, raise the pack, slightly rotate the pack one click on the teeth. It, the pack, should drop down then reassemble.

Even if you have to replace an earlier basket with a later 77 - 78 basket due to utilizing a double steel in the center, which I did, the basket can be removed without splitting the cases. However if this is the case then you will also need the later model of clutch cover. The earlier clutches were guilty of looseness and the resulting clutch rattle. As an intermediate solution Honda came up with their "field fix" of removing one friction disc and adding a double steel plate from a 75 - 79 Gold Wing clutch pack. To actually correct this they redesigned the whole clutch for 77/78 by lengthening the basket slightly and using the double steel with the correct number of plates. You can not mix and match without doing it properly. I have done both, the field fix and replacing the whole clutch on my 75 with the 77/78. Somewhere on this sight you can find this info. I will look for the info and try to link you to the proper location.   
« Last Edit: July 01, 2022, 11:11:51 AM by Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er »
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Offline david 750f

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I agree with Jerry. Your last photo shows an incorrectly assembled clutch, its definitely sitting too high. I'll try and find a photo of my 76 750F basket.
1976 CB 750F

Offline david 750f

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The top fibre clutch disc should be below the basket level. (outer clutch). You can see in the second from last of your pictures that the splined clutch centre is sitting up too high. Im surprised you haven't cracked the pressure plate, just loosen everything and jiggle it around ;)

[gifv]/gifv]
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Offline Don R

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 A jiggle won't fix it. let me see if I can illustrate what everyone is saying. I'll try for a picture.
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Offline Don R

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 This is the most common way lifters are broken. To correct it remove and turn the four posts one hole either way. Next time, mark the parts before removing.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2022, 04:59:05 PM by Don R »
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Offline kaptainkid1

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You are overthinking. Something we are ALL guilty of. Forget those DIY instructions.

You do NOT have the clutch pack installed in the basket correctly as I see from the assembled picture. It is sticking out too far. You either have too many plates, a double plate in an earlier basket, or as has been mentioned a couple times previously you need to turn the pack 1 tooth inside the basket to make it mesh properly. The dogs/tits on that last plate should fit inside the "tangs" of the basket. Remove the lifter, raise the pack, slightly rotate the pack one click on the teeth. It, the pack, should drop down then reassemble.

Even if you have to replace an earlier basket with a later 77 - 78 basket due to utilizing a double steel in the center, which I did, the basket can be removed without splitting the cases. However if this is the case then you will also need the later model of clutch cover. The earlier clutches were guilty of looseness and the resulting clutch rattle. As an intermediate solution Honda came up with their "field fix" of removing one friction disc and adding a double steel plate from a 75 - 79 Gold Wing clutch pack. To actually correct this they redesigned the whole clutch for 77/78 by lengthening the basket slightly and using the double steel with the correct number of plates. You can not mix and match without doing it properly. I have done both, the field fix and replacing the whole clutch on my 75 with the 77/78. Somewhere on this sight you can find this info. I will look for the info and try to link you to the proper location.
Hi Jerry,
The basket with clutch plates in photo is my back up part and all the clutch plates are sitting in the basket correctly in the bike. I was showing these examples from my tear down. Since my 45 minutes video will not upload to youtube I had to rely on back up photos for examples.
My issues is the same clutch lever not engaging and gear not shifting properly.
Could it be another issues besides the clutch plates which are aligned correctly in the basket just not shown in my photos.

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1996 Triumph 900 Adventurer Bobber

Offline kaptainkid1

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The top fibre clutch disc should be below the basket level. (outer clutch). You can see in the second from last of your pictures that the splined clutch centre is sitting up too high. Im surprised you haven't cracked the pressure plate, just loosen everything and jiggle it around ;)

[gifv]/gifv]
I installed it correctly and photo of the basket clutch out was a picture of my back up parts.

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Offline Don R

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 There were year to year changes on the clutch basket and pack width and cover offset. Maybe it's assembled properly with mis matched parts. Just a guess.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
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Offline kaptainkid1

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There were year to year changes on the clutch basket and pack width and cover offset. Maybe it's assembled properly with mis matched parts. Just a guess.
Interesting thought, I did swaps parts from the back up clutch basket which came with clutch disc and clutch pressure plate that mixed thinking I would put together the best looking parts between the two. I will put back the old parts and see if that fixes the problem.

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Offline scottly

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With the springs removed, the lifter plate should sit on the four posts with no pressure; if it doesn't, something is wrong with the height of the clutch plate stack or the clocking of the splines.
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
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Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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I mixed and "matched" mine unintentionally. I used a 77/78 pack in a 75 basket. The 77/78 pack uses the double steel in the center. Does your pack have the double steel in the middle? It is the preferred pack that eliminates the clutch rattle. However it is too wide to use with 75 basket. The 77/78 basket is wider to accommodate the wider pack and it also requires use of the 77/78 clutch cover. If this is perhaps what you did it will jam up everything when you install the cover and be next to impossible to pull in the lever. Somewhere there is a video of my kick starter mysteriously moving like it was possessed on it's own upon start up. I realized what I had done and replaced the basket and all went well. 
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline kaptainkid1

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The Great Pumkin runs again!

It turned out to be the clutch Pressure Plate which I changed from the back up parts. It turns out it can only fit in 1 way out of 4 ways. I never knew that. It only made sense when I noticed it wasn't sitting flat between to uses Pressure plates. So she's back together and now I have a second gear slip problem on hard pulls. Which was my problem in the 1st place. Will start a new thread.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2022, 06:48:15 PM by kaptainkid1 »
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1996 Triumph 900 Adventurer Bobber

Offline scottly

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The Great Pumkin runs again!

It turned out to be the clutch Pressure Plate which I changed from the back up parts. It turns out it can only fit in 1 way out of 4 ways.
That's what Don tried to tell you in reply #16. ;)
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
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Offline kaptainkid1

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This is the most common way lifters are broken. To correct it remove and turn the four posts one hole either way. Next time, mark the parts before removing.
Thank you for helping out. You are correct on my solution for my non shifting Honda.

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Offline kaptainkid1

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Here are some clutch pressure plates aligned correctly before putting into the clutch outer basket. Don r tried to explain the misalignment in his photos and my brain couldn't understand it. So for other CB owners having this problem. Here are some photos which your clutch plates pack should look like from the side view before packing them in Clutch outer basket.
Thanks for everyone's help now going to fix the next problem second gear slippage on hard throttle. Only happens in second and maybe 3rd if practically never.

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Offline HondaMan

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Your clutch pack is missing a plate.
In the 1975 clutch, there is a double-steel plate that has little springs in between them, and rivets holding it together. The rivets get loose and make the engine 'rattle' at low speeds, so they often get removed. However, this leaves the total stack height short by 1 steel plate. So, add another steel plate, right on top of another steel plate, to restore the height. Then the spring pressure will return and the slip will likely stop altogether.
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Offline kaptainkid1

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Your clutch pack is missing a plate.
In the 1975 clutch, there is a double-steel plate that has little springs in between them, and rivets holding it together. The rivets get loose and make the engine 'rattle' at low speeds, so they often get removed. However, this leaves the total stack height short by 1 steel plate. So, add another steel plate, right on top of another steel plate, to restore the height. Then the spring pressure will return and the slip will likely stop altogether.
So I can stack another metal plate or not?
The reason why I say this is because i have been running set up for 10k and only recently this issue is popping up.

My issue isnt a complete slip in 2nd gear. My issue isnt a 2nd gear total slippage. It very quick and last about 1 second and happens very randomly. In other words it feels like 1 second slip and it can happen back to back in 4 second pull. It also can run in 2nd gear and not slip. It feels like it popping out of gear and harash slip back into gear.
Also with a slipping clutch wouldn't slipping in 3rd when it pulls hard? 
Its a very weird sensation and I have had slipping clutches before and this doesnt feel like that.
Another possible problem?
I will put another metal plate but if that doesnt fix the problem what else can it be?

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« Last Edit: July 02, 2022, 11:15:18 PM by kaptainkid1 »
1975 Honda CB750F Daily Rider      
1974 BMW R90S Barn Find
1995 BMW R1100GS Dual Sport Daily
1996 Triumph 900 Adventurer Bobber

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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No, there is NOT a double steel in the 75 CB750F stock clutch. I have to disagree on this as an original owner of a 75 CB750F. Plus my 1975 American Honda parts manual disagrees also.   

The 75 clutch has 6 steel plates (22321-283-000 Plate B, clutch), 6 fiber plates (22201-300-000 Disk, clutch friction) and 1 fiber plate (disk, B clutch friction). As I have stated before the double steel did not appear until the 77/78 clutch upgrade. 

PM your phone number and I will text the pages of the parts manual with the parts list and the diagram if you would like
« Last Edit: July 02, 2022, 11:49:36 PM by Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er »
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline ekpent

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The second gear issue is hopefully not  worn gear dawgs when the two gears engage in the transmission. Second gear is the most popular for failure. When really bad it will pop out of second into a false neutral. Usually bad clutches like to slip and are more noticeable in the higher gears.

Offline PeWe

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I bought a used primary chain hub written to be from a 750F 1975 a few years ago
It was the earlier style without circlip groove before K6 1976.

My K6 1976 has same clutch fibers as the later engines 77/78,  outer fiber has wider tabs which need the K6 steel basket.
But still not double metal plate that need the later clutch hub a few mm deeper AND the deeper outer steel basket, F2-3, K7-8.

I bought an extra K6 clutch from USA ebay. Same model.

That bike has got the later style 77/78 with double metal disc. The later steel basket + the later deeper alu hub. (Had been in an F2-78.
Reused the clutch fibers.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2022, 12:28:14 PM by PeWe »
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline kaptainkid1

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The second gear issue is hopefully not  worn gear dawgs when the two gears engage in the transmission. Second gear is the most popular for failure. When really bad it will pop out of second into a false neutral. Usually bad clutches like to slip and are more noticeable in the higher gears.
Do you think it can be shifting springs going bad.
At 10:50 minute mark is the issues I'm going to check next.
Anyone else have an opinion to my werid 2nd gear popping out for a quick second and back into gear problem?

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1996 Triumph 900 Adventurer Bobber

Offline HondaMan

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Your clutch pack is missing a plate.
In the 1975 clutch, there is a double-steel plate that has little springs in between them, and rivets holding it together. The rivets get loose and make the engine 'rattle' at low speeds, so they often get removed. However, this leaves the total stack height short by 1 steel plate. So, add another steel plate, right on top of another steel plate, to restore the height. Then the spring pressure will return and the slip will likely stop altogether.
So I can stack another metal plate or not?
The reason why I say this is because i have been running set up for 10k and only recently this issue is popping up.

My issue isnt a complete slip in 2nd gear. My issue isnt a 2nd gear total slippage. It very quick and last about 1 second and happens very randomly. In other words it feels like 1 second slip and it can happen back to back in 4 second pull. It also can run in 2nd gear and not slip. It feels like it popping out of gear and harash slip back into gear.
Also with a slipping clutch wouldn't slipping in 3rd when it pulls hard? 
Its a very weird sensation and I have had slipping clutches before and this doesnt feel like that.
Another possible problem?
I will put another metal plate but if that doesnt fix the problem what else can it be?

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The second gear issue is hopefully not  worn gear dawgs when the two gears engage in the transmission. Second gear is the most popular for failure. When really bad it will pop out of second into a false neutral. Usually bad clutches like to slip and are more noticeable in the higher gears.
Do you think it can be shifting springs going bad.
At 10:50 minute mark is the issues I'm going to check next.
Anyone else have an opinion to my werid 2nd gear popping out for a quick second and back into gear problem?


Yep. Bent "L" shift fork inside, and now with worn gear dogs on the C5 gear, with ovalled-out slots in the C2 gear.

This was a chronic issue in the K0/1/2 bikes, and the shift drum (and later, the fork pins) was changed to help provide a more positive shift into 2nd, with an easier-to-find Neutral.

What happens is this, chronologically:
1. The bike is either frequently half-shifted into 2nd (because of a too-soft lift on the shifter from the rider's toe), or the bike fell over to the left side when not running, and came to rest on the shifter with the gearbox not shifted into 2nd, but resting dog-against-gear (C2-C5 pair) instead. This bends the shifter fork.
2. With continued usage and teh C2-C5 gears not being fully meshed, the slots in the C5 wear in a taper and the edges of the dogs on the C2 gear wear likewise in the opposite direction.
3. The pressures of the engine accelerating cause the middle section rib of the engine to twist slightly (under heavy loaads or throttle) and the barely-engaged C2-C5 dogs-slots pop out for one or two revolutions. This is really jerky, and sometimes noisy as well.

The solution usually entails a new shifter drum, which by now is probably also damaged in the Neutral bump site, and a new "L" shift fork (or a straight used one) and the C2-C5 gears either replaced with good ones, or pull them out and send them to be refitted. This 'fixup' costs about $150 (last ones I did), so sometimes finding another gearbox or the C2-C5 gears is cheaper. The shift fork is harder to find. The drums are pretty available.

If you pull yours apart, put up the pictures of these parts. If I have some to match, I might be able to help. When you are splitting the cases, the first gear out of the countershaft bearing housing is the C2, the next one is the C5 gears. The "L" shift fork is the one closest to the Left side of the engine.

This all said: I once rebuilt a 750K1 engine with over 55k miles on it. These 2 gears were VERY worn, and one of the dogs was missing on the C2 gear. When I asked the owner about it, he said he had
"...tapped the bike with my car's fender when pulling into the garage one night and it fell over, and I left it there all night. The next day I picked it up off of (I think he said it was a concrete block it hit on...) that the shifter was resting on, and it had this problem. When I ran it, the tranny locked up and killed the engine when I tried to pull away from a stop. I pulled the pan and found the broken-off dog, took it out, and rode on by skipping 2nd gear and going from 1st to 3rd."
- for more than 40k miles he rode like this! I replaced the above 4 parts in that one and it still runs today.
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Offline bryanj

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Having read this post for the first time the big problem is using the wrong words, it was not "slipping" in 2nd gear it was "jumping" out of gear and back in.
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

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