Topic: Hub renewal

[beemerbum]

I am rebuilding the front wheel on my CB750 K2. While it is spokeless I would like to get the hub looking as new and original as possible. I've considered wire brushing. I'm sure someone out there has done this. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[69cb750]

Glass bead if you have aluminum wheels

[BenelliSEI]

I take them to a local guy that does alloy polishing in trucks and show vehicles. He spends a few minutes at his row of different polishing wheels and brings them to a high sheen. Does engine covers, Fork legs, brake hubs etc. Check your local KIJIJI for ads. That where I found my guy.

[pjlogue]

When I restored my K6 hubs (and my GL1000) I  removed all seals and bearings from the hubs, degreased the hubs and vapor blasted them.  I then used progressively finer wet sanding (320=800 grit) on the machined surfaces to remove the old spoke witness marks.  Final cleaning with acetone and then taped off areas I didn't want the KBS Diamond Clear Coat to get into.  This was very labor intensive but the final result is very close to original and will last many years without yellowing or pealing.  Makes cleaning much easier as well as you can use brake cleaner to remove any grease on the hubs without harming the finish.

The Diamond Clear Coat is the only finish I have found that will leave the aluminum looking like it does when it is uncoated.  The other spray coatings and clear powder coatings I have tried all leave the part with a reduced luster or yellowish look.

-P.

[newday777]

When I restored my K6 hubs (and my GL1000) I  removed all seals and bearings from the hubs, degreased the hubs and vapor blasted them.  I then used progressively finer wet sanding (320=800 grit) on the machined surfaces to remove the old spoke witness marks.  Final cleaning with acetone and then taped off areas I didn't want the KBS Diamond Clear Coat to get into.  This was very labor intensive but the final result is very close to original and will last many years without yellowing or pealing.  Makes cleaning much easier as well as you can use brake cleaner to remove any grease on the hubs without harming the finish.

The Diamond Clear Coat is the only finish I have found that will leave the aluminum looking like it does when it is uncoated.  The other spray coatings and clear powder coatings I have tried all leave the part with a reduced luster or yellowish look.

-P.

Did you spray or brush on the Diamond Clear Coat?

Have you used it on the polish aluminum engine covers? It says it is non yellowing up to 300F and is good for intake manifolds and valve covers.

[Progas]

Have it vapor blasted and then paint it Honda cloud silver or just leave it with the vapor blasted finish. That's what I do with my restorations.

[Maltboy]

When I restored my K6 hubs (and my GL1000) I  removed all seals and bearings from the hubs, degreased the hubs and vapor blasted them.  I then used progressively finer wet sanding (320=800 grit) on the machined surfaces to remove the old spoke witness marks.  Final cleaning with acetone and then taped off areas I didn't want the KBS Diamond Clear Coat to get into.  This was very labor intensive but the final result is very close to original and will last many years without yellowing or pealing.  Makes cleaning much easier as well as you can use brake cleaner to remove any grease on the hubs without harming the finish.

The Diamond Clear Coat is the only finish I have found that will leave the aluminum looking like it does when it is uncoated.  The other spray coatings and clear powder coatings I have tried all leave the part with a reduced luster or yellowish look.

-P.

This is basically what I did to my engine covers after I polished them.  I sprayed all the big parts.  The Diamond Coat was too thick to spray straight, so I thinned it with acetone.  I found that a tack coat followed by a wet coat gives good results.  I brush painted a few smaller pieces.  They turned out good, but not as nice as the sprayed parts.  I read a thread on an auto forum where a guy did this to his polished valve covers, and he said it still looks great 10 years later.  Zero yellowing.

[pjlogue]

When I restored my K6 hubs (and my GL1000) I  removed all seals and bearings from the hubs, degreased the hubs and vapor blasted them.  I then used progressively finer wet sanding (320=800 grit) on the machined surfaces to remove the old spoke witness marks.  Final cleaning with acetone and then taped off areas I didn't want the KBS Diamond Clear Coat to get into.  This was very labor intensive but the final result is very close to original and will last many years without yellowing or pealing.  Makes cleaning much easier as well as you can use brake cleaner to remove any grease on the hubs without harming the finish.

The Diamond Clear Coat is the only finish I have found that will leave the aluminum looking like it does when it is uncoated.  The other spray coatings and clear powder coatings I have tried all leave the part with a reduced luster or yellowish look.

-P.

Did you spray or brush on the Diamond Clear Coat?

Have you used it on the polish aluminum engine covers? It says it is non yellowing up to 300F and is good for intake manifolds and valve covers.

Yes.  I have it on the fork lowers. front and back wheel hubs, engine  covers.  Does not yellow and is impervious to any chemicals you would normally use on a bike. 

-P.

[flybackwards]

I just did mine - first cleaned with solvent removed the bearings and spacer and then made an adaptor from a carriage bolt, couple of washers couple of sockets and a double nut and chucked it in my drill press then used low speed revs and a flat chain saw file to clean up a couple of small dings in the spoke rim then used fine wet/dry and wd40 on the rim and edges followed by metal polish and a cloth - watch out for getting the cloth wrapped and taking your fingers with it!   I used one of these flexible foam sanding blocks from the home depot paint section on the centre ribs - it has a wedge shaped piece that worked well to clean them up - they are now clean but not shiny - they are a pretty rough casting to start with.