Topic: Progress on CB550 gas tank refinishing (pre-paint)

[gregwaits]

It took about 5 days and nearly twice as many applications of the stripper, but I finally managed to get the paint off of the tank. These pics show were I am now. As you notice, there are some minor rust areas that I have to contend with. None of them are rusting through.

How should I deal with these rusted areas before proceeding with bondo, etc and then my base coat?

[jabbadeznuts]

Here's what I did with mine:

1) aircraft stripper
2) wire wheel on an air die-grinder to take care of any rust
3) bondo
4) pin-hole filler
5) sand until you can't sand any more.
6) sand some more
7) paint

[ElCheapo]

Try to always do dents first with a stud welder and a small dent puller slide hammer


I know here I go with the fancy tools again, but there is just no excuse for improper metal work. I try to do tanks with the assumption that I will be leaving it raw. This also means that I weld the areas around the old tank badges shut. This requires you to remove the badge mount tab in the tank side and then cut a small filler panel and weld her in. In doing all of this it makes the tank look so much better and the best part is that it takes barely a glaze of premium fill to correct any imperfections.

Some rules I have for paint

1. There is no substitute for proper prep - IF IT SHOWS IN THE PRIMER, IT WILL SHOW IN THE PAINT
2. Always use a high quality etching primer - Shoot your primer in several thin coats
3. NEVER leave primer without paint on it longer than 2 days (It absorbs stuff in the air and will screw up your paint)
4. When painting, PREP your area! Make sure that you can leave it to dry for the needed amount of time.
5. Use the best (most expensive) quality paint you can afford for the project. Know your paint and its reactivity to fuel and oil.
6. Clean tank with MEK before applying any body fill. Do not use MEK after you apply body fill as it will turn to silly putty  Ooooo and aaaaaa DON'T SMOKE! This shyte is explosive like you just could not imagine.


Some other tricks I use:
1. Plug all the inlet/outlet holes and sandblast tank with Black Magic
2. Devise a hanging system for all of the parts that allows me to shoot all the way around the part without having to mess with it.
3. Shoot the hard areas FIRST. Meaning - shoot the bottom side of the tank and all of the edges first then blend to your main areas
4. When shooting paint and primer stop paint first then stop or change directions of your hand. This keeps paint from building up at the end of your passes.
5. KILL anyone who promises to use silicone lube spray while your paint is being applied or curing.
6. Use an Ionizer type air purifier. This makes the particles that could goof the paint fall to the ground
7. Wet the floor, this keep dust on the floor where it belongs and not in your paint.

I know this is a lot of stuff, but it can make the difference of painting once or twice. Most importantly take you time with it. If you get a nice coat of primer on the bits, WALK AWAY! Don't mess with it. Make sure it gets to cure and when you come back with fresh eyes you may see a minor goof you did not notice before. If you don't see any screw ups then prep your area and your time schedule, allow yourself time with no pressure on completion and get painting. When painting, NOTHING ELSE MATTERS. I lock the door to the shop, turn on some cool tunes (I listen to classical music and stay calm and smooth like a mortician) and stay until I have what I need from it.

[Lumbee]

...if you don't have a 4 1/2" grinder with a knotted wire wheel, get one...in valuble tool for cleaning up old parts.  Hit that tank with a wire wheel, and it'll be ready for the next step.  I'll 2nd Cheapo's suggestion of welding up the side badge areas.  However if you don't have a welder, then bondo is what u'll so like cheapo said, lots of sanding.  My recommdation on home paint jobs is this:

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

...i used this process on this bike, and it worked great...

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/marklocklear/album/576460762330161646/photo/294928803427478175/12

...few other pics in that album of the ran I redid...

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/marklocklear/album/576460762330161646

[gregwaits]

I had concerns about what an abrasive tool such as a wire wheel would do to the surface of the tank - which would in turn show through the paint. Doesn't this leave scratches?

I am sure that you guys have much more experience with painting than I do.

[ElCheapo]

I had concerns about what an abrasive tool such as a wire wheel would do to the surface of the tank - which would in turn show through the paint. Doesn't this leave scratches?

I am sure that you guys have much more experience with painting than I do.

It can if you get to crazy with it.


I use a 3M Green abrasive. The great part about these aside from the fact that they are gentle on the surface, they last a long time. I have had mine for about 4 years. The yellow is good for aluminum as well as the white for pre- polishing.

[grumburg]

Here's what I did with mine:

1) aircraft stripper
2) wire wheel on an air die-grinder to take care of any rust
3) bondo
4) pin-hole filler
5) sand until you can't sand any more.
6) sand some more
7) paint

AND SAND SOME MORE. I also spray a guide coat of black (very light coat) and sand it off to find high and low spots before final primer coat. Painting is 90% preparation.

[Hockers Choppers]

Good advise all, but don't forget all the prep in the world won't make spray can paint look good for long! Use good material too. I don't listen to classical in my shop its always Sirius #27!!