Topic: 836cc engine kits

[fritzer_108]

I recently got into my first accident on my 1976 CB750F1 by getting rear ended at a stoplight. The bike and I are both ok...just some nasty bruising and sore shoulders as well as a cracked alternator and valve covers. I have been thinking about building a big bore engine for a while and now that I'll have to remove the engine for the stupid valve cover, I am considering it even more.

Has any here used the CycleX Git Kit's in their bikes? http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20Git%20Kit.htm
 I am currently looking at the "Price Buster Kit #1" (It sure is). Do the numbers they quote at you (CR, HP) actually hold up in reality? What other upgrades would I need to invest in to make it a reliable street bike that can still pack a punch?
I've seen a bolt on mod in install an oil cooler here: https://www.randakks.com/oil-filter-conversion-kit-for-use-with-remote-oil-cooler.html
 
I have access to a 1976 F1 motor and a 1977 K7 motor. Which would be more suitable for a 836cc build?
Thank you for your inputs.

[PeWe]

Check with forum member MRieck.
He knows how to make this to happen as he has helped many on this forum.
Something like?
- 836 10.5:1 pistons
- Ported head stage 3
- A good cam like DP295
- A good 4-1
Stock carbs OK, with pods for getting more air.
Stock rods OK. (More power need reinforcements)

[Alan F.]

Don't forget to consider one of the frame kits too.

[Translations]

Don't forget to consider one of the frame kits too.

This! Especially when building anything other than stock.

[PeWe]

Don't forget to consider one of the frame kits too.

This! Especially when building anything other than stock.

Change cam or gaskets need a frame kit. And other service jobs.
Difficult without a frame kit.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

"I have access to a 1976 F1 motor and a 1977 K7 motor"

Basically identical as they started using the 75/76 F in the 77 K

Can't say about the CycleX 836 but I recently used one of their 915 kits. Works fine.

[newday777]

"I have access to a 1976 F1 motor and a 1977 K7 motor"

Basically identical as they started using the 75/76 F in the 77 K

The 77 K has offset front sprocket to take into consideration

[scottly]

 I am currently looking at the "Price Buster Kit #1" (It sure is). Do the numbers they quote at you (CR, HP) actually hold up in reality?

An 836 kit with a cam WILL Not produce 102 RWHP, regardless of the CR, more like 70 or maybe 80 with a ported head. The early F and K7 heads have a slightly larger combustion chamber than the earlier bikes, so the CR may be lower than advertised. For a LOT less dollars, consider the Crusin Image 836 kit.

[PeWe]

My 836 kit was stated as 100hp on the crankshaft.
- 836 10.5-11:1
- Ported head 34mm in valves, race springs.
- Cam Action Fours SS-1
This worked fine with stock carbs with pods, rather open 4-1.

Dyno 30 years later with almost same setup, now with 32mm flatslide carbs
- 81whp on Dyno
2-3 whp more with a hotter cam.
I did not measure with RC295 but it had more power.

- So, the mentioned hp is on the crank. -
Gearbox internally and  to wheel take 15-20%

Ported head is the biggest cost here.
An old head need most likely new ex guides and valves anyway.  Maybe all guides and valves.
Then not much more investing in larger in valves and port the head.

Good idea to open the engine and inspect the crank shelves, new chains. Maybe new cush rubbers in primary hub too.

To use a hotter cam pistons with deeper pockets is a must.
I tried a Kenny Harmon D cam in my K2 with CI K7 pistons.
Pistons kissed the valves.

Dynoman has 811cc pistons. This make it possible to rebore in the future to 836.
Stock restored head with a D  cam + springs might be fun.
Maybe 70whp?
Check chamber volumes.
K pistons CR usually calculated for 22.5cc chambers.

My last ported head is a 392 head. Chambers were between 22.4-22.9cc before porting and adjusting for my pistons.

Your head might need to be shaved a little to decrease chamber volumes. Chambers adjusted to be equal.