Topic: Fork oil seepage at front axle attach holder

[Scootch]

I have noticed a little fork oil accumulation on the rear fork axle holder nut on both fork tubes. #31 in the attached pic. I am not sure yet but it seems that the likely place for the seepage to be from (#34 and 35). If it is a matter of the cap screws needing to be tightened can I do that or will whatever the cap screw screws into turn? Or it may be that new #35 copper washers are needed. If new washers are needed can I just remove the cap screws and replace the washers? I assume that fork oil will drain out? Will I be able to retighten that screws or will the part inside turn? Hopefully I don't have to do a complete disassembly of the fork tubes to replace the copper washers...

[flatlander]

the axle holder and its fasteners have no contact with oil.
did you check the oil drain plug no. 28? most likely it's seeping from there. unless you find a trail of oil along the entire leg in which case it would be a seal at the top.
so check first here the oil comes from. if it's hard to see now, then clean the fork leg off completely, blow on some baby powder and pump the fork up and down a few times. on the baby powder you can see clearly where the oil comes from. if that doesn't help you'd probably need to go for a short ride where the fork is compressed more.

[Scootch]

the axle holder and its fasteners have no contact with oil.
did you check the oil drain plug no. 28?

Yes I understand that the axle holder fasteners have no contact with the oil. I will more closely look at the drain plug #28 area.

[Scootch]

[quote author=calj737 link=topic=190026.msg2209171#msg2209171
The damping rod is secured from the bottom of the leg, above the axle. That bolt and washer need to be very tight. Highly unusual for them to leak unless they’ve been apart and not installed correctly.
[/quote]
One question then is... Will I be able to tighten the bolts or will the damping rod spin when I try to snug them up more?

[bryanj]

The only answer is try it and see, sometime yes sometimes no. It may be the copper sealing washer is damaged or missing

[robvangulik]

When you compress the front fork, the damper rod does not rotate.

[craz1]

quote-When you compress the front fork, the damper rod does not rotate.-quote

If you lucky. If your new to the bike the PO may have done something wrong. If the oil has not been changed for sometime it may be a good time to clean things and change that oil and check everything out. Normally that copper washer should not leak if done correctly. Most forks need a special tool to keep that rod from rotating while removing or tightening the bolt, more so on removing. Sometimes you get lucky by compressing the forks. I make my own tools if needed. If you compress the forks and use a air impact wrench it may break that bolt loose without the tool to hold the rod. When you resemble the clean unit you usually put a small amount of blue locktite on that lower bolt and torque to spec using a new copper washer. If you don't have a manual now would be a good time to find one.

[robvangulik]

Whatever makes you happy
I never needed special tools to disassemble a front fork.

[ekpent]

Usually when I am doing a fork seal job I try breaking that allen bolt loose at the bottom while the fork has the spring in still under good tension.

[Scootch]

Thank you everyone for the info, suggestions and input. I am going to have a look at those allen bolts soon. I will be sure to feedback the results regarding what I find...

[craz1]

If those Allens spin I guarantee you will need to hold those rods with some kind of tool. Let us know.

[scunny]

the special tool is a wooden handle off a rake or hoe wih a taper filed into it

[craz1]

Great you figured it out, Crude but will work. Never said what kind of tools I made, in fact I have done just what you described. Now the question is what did you find. The point I am trying to make is if you need to take the darn thing apart you might as well make proper tool rather than the stick with a pointed end which can leave a bunch on shavings in you new assembled fork. Don't be one of those back yard mechanics.

In fact I just pulled a set apart where I did not  need a holding tool as 90% of them don't. However I also found the the guy didn't install a copper washer, and the bolt was really loose, and the valves were put in wrong and damaged the aluminum taper for dampening and the spring was installed upside down. So unless you know the bike inside out and have done all the work on it through the years don't assume anything.

[Kevnz]

This is what I found when I pulled mine apart! It's not that big a deal to dismantle the whole front end and check it out. If it has'nt been done for a while, or you don't know it's history, it might be worth spending a morning and doing the job properly. I've always been able to loosen the lower drain plug with an ordinary Allen key. If reusing the copper washer, make sure it's nice and flat on both sides so that it seals properly. If it's damaged, you can flat it off on a file or sheet of glass and wet and dry sandpaper

[ekpent]

An allen bit on a drill can break them loose also as the high speed burst can be enough to get it done. I have done the broom handle also in the past.

[MauiK3]

Forks and the oil seem to be neglected a lot, I've always found sludge, not oil, when diving into a new project.

[Scootch]

This machine has been extensively refurbished. The front forks have been rebuilt. I suspect that something needs tightened or tweaked.

[Scootch]

I think I have discovered that the fork oil is coming out from around the fork seal. It builds up then trickles down the tube and collects at the lower axle nut. It appears to be doing this on both sides. Advice on what to do about this?

[bryanj]

Fit new quality seals and make sure no pits on the tube, check the surface where the seal filts into slider for gouges caused when removing old seals

[Scootch]

Thank you !  I have a couple questions...
When I look up seals on Yamiya there are 4 different ones listed. 2 of them are 35x46x11. 2 of them are 35x48x11.
When I refer to a shop manual it says that there are new seals of a double lip type for frame numbers higher than mine and it gives a part number of 91255-341-305 for those seals. When I Google that number it pulls up dimensions of 35x48x13.2. Apparently the manual part number specifies a part that is 2.2 mm different for frames of higher serial number than mine. I'm not sure what the 11 and 13.2 mm dimension refers to and why it is a little bigger? So I am confused as to what seals I need?
Where is the place to order these parts?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

The 11 and 13.2mm refer to the thickness of the single lip and double lip seals. The other dimensions are the exterior and interior dimensions.

[bryanj]

Some seals use a "back up" washer but as far as i know you can fit either seal, from memory all seals are twin lip but some dont have a spring garter on the top lip.
All seals are fitted with any numbers upwards.
Seen a lot of sliders scared by using sharp levers to get old seals out, if so carefully file of any sharp edges of scar and fill with a silicone sealant, works 90% of time.

[Scootch]

To close the loop on this...  I found that the seals had been installed incorrectly - they were upside down. New seals properly installed seems to have taken care of the problem. We'll be watching...