Topic: Belfast-2-Belfast-by-Bike

[grcamna2]

I hope you have a set of new inner tubes with those tires;check to make sure the hold-down nut on the valve stems on those new tubes(12mm wrench)are nice and tight before giving them over to the 'tire installer'.
I hope they use good bead lube and center both beads evenly all the way around the tires.
I hope you find someone(sohc4 member)along the way who will do this job for you.
A good thing to do while the tires are off the rim is to check the straightness/True of each wheel on a truing stand;a bit of wobble can create oscillations in the wheel assembly and create extra heat to wear out your tyres prematurely.

[ofreen]

Two tyre related questions for y’all; I’m a southerner now 
I’m running on Metzelers - ME77 rear and ME11 front.
The first issue concerns the front. I replaced it before leaving because it seemed to be wearing at the sides, leaving a ridge in the middle. Now this tyre is doing the same thing. Anyone else experienced this? Is it normal?

No, not normal.  As Benelli said, it sounds like it is underinflated.  What pressure are you running in it?  The suggested tire pressures from the old days are too low for most of today's tires, especially Metzeler bias ply tires.  I like the Metzeler Lazertec front (formerly ME33).  I run it at 38 psi on the 750 and get no cupping or uneven wear, and usually get 15000 miles out of one.

The second issue is the rear. I replaced it in Baltimore, about 4 000 miles ago, and it’s about ready to be replaced again. This seems very soon to me; maybe it’s due to the load. 

I reluctantly put a ME77 on the rear of the 750 a couple of years ago because it was available during the artificially created supply chain issues.  I say reluctantly because my experience with them many years ago was that they wear quickly.  It is clear that hasn't changed.  I doubt I will get 5000 miles out of it, and I am not running it loaded up as you are.

[scottly]

Why not try an inexpensive set of Kendas

Kenda Challengers are "not recommended for high load carrying vehicles". Maybe they have other tires with higher load ratings?

[The Lone Builder]

I thought it might be under-inflation also and upped the pressure to 32, from 28. Then I got the wobble and thought that might be the cause so I deflated again - made no difference to the wobble.

I’ll do a search and see what’s available.

[scottly]

Did the wobble start after the spill, or was it wobbling before the spill?

[HondaMan]

Two tyre related questions for y’all; I’m a southerner now 

I’m running on Metzelers - ME77 rear and ME11 front.

The first issue concerns the front. I replaced it before leaving because it seemed to be wearing at the sides, leaving a ridge in the middle. Now this tyre is doing the same thing. Anyone else experienced this? Is it normal?

The second issue is the rear. I replaced it in Baltimore, about 4 000 miles ago, and it’s about ready to be replaced again. This seems very soon to me; maybe it’s due to the load.  Anyway, I’m thinking of changing to Continentals or Dunlops depending on what I can get. Does anyone know if these are harder wearing than the Metzelers?

And finally, any suggestions on how to avoid the exorbitant charge the guy in Baltimore hit me with to fit the tyre? After Little Rock, I’m heading up to Neosho, Missouri then to Greely, Nebraska and Sioux Falls, Minnesota ( or maybe the other way round on the last two).

First word: Avon RoadRider. I got 40k from my last one on the front, and 32k miles on the rear (and the current front one is designated "3.25/90x19" to show how long I've had it, since 2008!). I run the series 90 versions, which are easier to find than the lower-profiled 80 or 70 series: since France started making these Avons they are holding up much better. When I build the bikes I use 100/90x19 front, 120/90x18 rear, Tire pressures: with today's metric-cased tires the pressures MUST be higher than those found on Honda's old logo labels: those old pressure numbers were for bias-ply carcass designs, and all motorcycle tires today are made on rounder metric profiles now. The front should be NO LESS than 38 PSI: I run 40 most of the time. The rear should be 40-44 PSI, depending on loads.

Your Metzies died from too-low air pressure: their tire carcasses are also the same metric style and need similar air pressures to the Avons noted above. The wear pattern you describe is typical of a front tire underinflated by about 20-25%.

I've been to Neosho, MO many times! I can recommend the Best Western there, across the street from the Walmart. Nice folks, free breakfast, good beds. Tell them you want a ground-level room, if they have one, due to 'knee injury'. Lock up the bike!

[Stev-o]

+1 - Avons or Continentals.  And up the inflation as Greg states - 38psi.

We've got to help Sean find a shop that can install them for a reasonable price. Who do we know it that area?

[ofreen]

First word: Avon RoadRider. I got 40k from my last one on the front, and 32k miles on the rear (and the current front one is designated "3.25/90x19" to show how long I've had it, since 2008!).

With tubes? Are they hard as rocks?   What are they like in the wet, especially after 16 years?  What about small bump compliance and cornering feel?  I've never run Avons or heard of such mileage out of them.  Very interesting.

[The Lone Builder]

Did the wobble start after the spill, or was it wobbling before the spill?

After, so probably nothing to do with tyres.

I’ve inflated to Mark’s suggested pressures, so will see how it goes.

[scottly]

If the wobble started after the spill, something must still tweaked or miss-assembled? You mentioned an issue with the steering stem bearings, which might not be the issue, but should not be ruled out. How about some pics of the front wheel on both sides to see if anything stands out?   

[HondaMan]

First word: Avon RoadRider. I got 40k from my last one on the front, and 32k miles on the rear (and the current front one is designated "3.25/90x19" to show how long I've had it, since 2008!).

With tubes? Are they hard as rocks?   What are they like in the wet, especially after 16 years?  What about small bump compliance and cornering feel?  I've never run Avons or heard of such mileage out of them.  Very interesting.

Oh, yeah. I 'wore' the old TT100s until we couldn't get them, and got spoiled by their grip in all weather and surprising mileage, even when I had dual disks up front. Then I went thru 4 different ones in a row, over 2 years, front and back when the TT100 was gone. I tried Bridgestones, Conti (before I knew those were Chinkos), then Continentals' "Twins", Metzlers (nice grip, low lifetime, though) and then, on advice from a fellow 750 rider here, the Avons. They are ALMOST as good as the TT100 in grip, ALMOST as good in lean angles, but can carry more load per tire size. It took me a while to get used to the higher tire pressures (harsher ride overall), but now I am, and if I can't get new ones when these wear out I might have to learn how to cry again? I can't say one bad thing about the Avons - unlike many others. I started with the Roadrunner set first (ribbed front, block rear pattern), got a nail (in a board on the street, hit both tires), went RoadRider on the followup repair. They are a good match to the 750's lean capabilities and carry weights very well.

The [German-made] Continental Twins were good for 1-up riding, but with 2-up in fast mountain road riding they would slide when leaned way over (their 'warning bar' system). And, I lean way over, so I sold them to someone else who didn't do that when they had about 1200 miles on them. Good otherwise, I suspect.

[The Lone Builder]

Well, after that sales pitch, it has to be the Avons!

[The Lone Builder]

If the wobble started after the spill, something must still tweaked or miss-assembled? You mentioned an issue with the steering stem bearings, which might not be the issue, but should not be ruled out. How about some pics of the front wheel on both sides to see if anything stands out?

I’ll do that tomorrow.

[grcamna2]

If the wobble started after the spill, something must still tweaked or miss-assembled? You mentioned an issue with the steering stem bearings, which might not be the issue, but should not be ruled out. How about some pics of the front wheel on both sides to see if anything stands out?

I’ll do that tomorrow.

You might raise/jack the front wheel up(w/ the bike on the centerstand)just enough to clear the ground and give it a spin to see if it spins 'True'.

[The Lone Builder]

Hi All,

Wobble now sorted after tightening the steering head bearings again, and this time a bit tighter than before. Have now ridden from KCMO to Coldstream, BC and all well on that front.

Yes, I’m back in Canada, visiting my uncle, before heading over to Washington (just N of Seattle) and then down to California where the last Belfast on the N America trip is to be found. After that, I have ot make a decision of going-on, or going-back. But that’s for another day.

Today I have 2 issues:
     The first involves an oil leak from, I’m nearly certain, the centre of the cylinder head gasket. This is enough to make the bike a mess, right back to the air box, but not enough to need frequent top ups - maybe 400ml over 3000kms. I also have a weep from the oil pan somewhere, with a drip forming on eh drain plug, one or two of two of the sump bolts and down the side stand.
      Obviously I’m in no position to fix all this definitively, so I thought to use this Rislone Oil Seal Stuff (see Pic). Has anyone any experience of this, or similar products?

The second involves the carbs. The bike is running well. Starts easily and ticks over nicely at first. Then if it’s hot out - upper 20s/lower 30s - and the engine gets (very) hot - (vey hot) the idle becomes higher and lumpy. It’ll settle when I fully close the throttle, but rises again as soon as I relax.

The plugs look to me a bit too clean, but other thoughts appreciated. The carbs are 657B, with 110 main and 40 slow Jets. The needles are Keyster -I think - stamped 2720, with the clip in the 3rd slot. Air screw is at 1⅛ turns out.

I am thinking to move the clip to the 4th slot from top. Any thoughts?

[HondaMan]

The number 2720 on the needles is probably 27201 (the "1" is always hard to see), which was OEM for that carb set. Keysters are often just 3 characters, usually a letter with 2 numbers following, like "D37". It was normally set to the 4th notch, with the idle air screws a 1.0 turns out. If set to the 3rd notch it is a tad on the lean side: you can test that by using a tank of higher octane to see if that helps for a time. If it straightens it out, I'd suggest the 4th notch when you have the time, and the 1.0 turn on the idle screws at the same time.

[The Lone Builder]

There was indeed a mark that looked like a “1”. I said Keyster because there is a mark that looks like a “K” before the numbers.

I moved the clip down to the 4th notch and will check the float heights this morning. I know the setting is 26mm, and to make things richer I should raise the float. Does that mean go to 27mm or to 25mm?

[HondaMan]

There was indeed a mark that looked like a “1”. I said Keyster because there is a mark that looks like a “K” before the numbers.

I moved the clip down to the 4th notch and will check the float heights this morning. I know the setting is 26mm, and to make things richer I should raise the float. Does that mean go to 27mm or to 25mm?

Certainly doing both of those things at once will make it richer - maybe too much? The normal setting for the 657B carbs is/was 26mm on both (plastic) floats with the needle in the 4th slot. In the earliest K2 the mainjet was #110, but it became #105 by about 3/1972 because the #110 jet would foul plugs in city riding with premium fuel (back then).

The needle clip is almost 2% richer per step move (like 1.8% in real life). So, if the plugs are showing some grey where it was on the middle slot, it will get darker with the next step down.

The "K" on the Keihin parts is always highly stylized, almost like script writing, while the Keyster versions are just plain block letters. Most of the Keyster versions  I have show a "D" with the numbers, like "D37".

[The Lone Builder]

 :-\Thanks Mark.
There’s a pic of the plugs above. 1 to 4, L to R.

The floats are, somehow, all over the place; some at 29mm! I thought I had set all these at 26. 

If I set these back to 26 now, maybe I should leave the needles in the middle slot.

[grcamna2]

:-\Thanks Mark.
There’s a pic of the plugs above. 1 to 4, L to R.

The floats are, somehow, all over the place; some at 29mm! I thought I had set all these at 26. 

If I set these back to 26 now, maybe I should leave the needles in the middle slot.

Difficult to set the floats precisely while the carbs are still installed on the cycle? or have you removed them ?  I agree to leave the needles in the position they are while you first set all the floats on the level/26.

[The Lone Builder]

I have them off.

All set to 26 now and I’m going to put needle back ot 3rd slot.

Previous (2018) repair to carb body was cracked, so waiting for eh tank weld to cure; it never rains, but it pours!

Found a replacement on eBay in Edmonton, but the guys is away till the 12th!

[BenelliSEI]

I have them off.

All set to 26 now and I’m going to put needle back ot 3rd slot.

Previous (2018) repair to carb body was cracked, so waiting for eh tank weld to cure; it never rains, but it pours!

Found a replacement on eBay in Edmonton, but the guys is away till the 12th!

Let us know what part you need. Try “Magpie”.

[CycleRanger]

 I would NOT use that Rislone in your engine!

[HondaMan]

Which carb? I might have a body here.

[The Lone Builder]

Thanks. I built it up using JB Tank Weld, which, hopefully, will last a few years.

I’m thinking I might need a major overhaul before New Zealand.