Topic: Front Brake Solution Alternatives

[rotortiller]

Hopefully this helps to identify.

[Rosinante]

You guys are more awesome than the bikes you ride.  I was having confusion, and this will surely help. 

The hose connection still appears to be front-facing and I wonder if that might require a custom hose.  I know this system will need a SS braided hose but I wonder if the stock hose has the right length.  Frankly, the hose I bought (VintageCB750) is actually longer than the hose that was on my bike.  Too long means there will be unnecessary sponginess.

I think someone makes custom hoses, right?

Did I mention how awesome you guys are?

[scottly]

You might want to check the alignment of the caliper. Look at the pads, and see if they are contacting the rotor over the full face of the pad. While most other brake calipers aren't affected by wear or the thickness of the pads, the swinging action of these calipers changes the angle of the pads against the rotor as the pads wear.
The pad on the inside sets the spacing for the caliper: a thicker pad will require the caliper pivot to be spaced inwards from the fork than a thinner one in order for the pads to sit flat on the rotor. One way to check if the caliper bracket needs spacing is to loosen the three mounting bolts and squeezing the brake lever, which allows the caliper to align itself. You can then figure out how thick of washers to use as spacers. It might help to remove the front fender, or at least move the brace out of the way so it doesn't interfere with the top caliper mount.   

[Rosinante]

I appreciate that.  I did follow the procedure in the manual, but perhaps I will double check to see the inside pad is square to the rotor.

[grcamna2]

You might want to check the alignment of the caliper. Look at the pads, and see if they are contacting the rotor over the full face of the pad. While most other brake calipers aren't affected by wear or the thickness of the pads, the swinging action of these calipers changes the angle of the pads against the rotor as the pads wear.
The pad on the inside sets the spacing for the caliper: a thicker pad will require the caliper pivot to be spaced inwards from the fork than a thinner one in order for the pads to sit flat on the rotor. One way to check if the caliper bracket needs spacing is to loosen the three mounting bolts and squeezing the brake lever, which allows the caliper to align itself. You can then figure out how thick of washers to use as spacers. It might help to remove the front fender, or at least move the brace out of the way so it doesn't interfere with the top caliper mount.

I appreciate your clear explanation of this Scott.
I'm glad you're the moderator on sohc4 

[rotortiller]

Would not the pads just wear or break in on a tiny angle to maintain full surface contact? I have never shimmed the caliper holder to the forks when installing new pads.