Topic: Removing Oil Pressure Switch - and other related questions

[bmcdonou]

Potentially a stupid question, but I am struggling with removing the oil pressure switch and sits on top of the oil pump. It doesn't have the traditional hexagonal shape to get a good purchase on it, but rather has groves in a semi-hex round shape (pics attached). When I put a wrench on it, it slips. But when I try pliers it also doesn't budge. I don't want to break it, but before I go at it, any tips? The OEM replacement I purchased has a traditional hex shape.

Some context rated to other questions:
 - The oil light never worked from the PO and thought it was time to repair. I found the wire cut so I reconnected and now the light turns on with key. I suspect that there might be a reason it was snipped....perhaps it was stuck closed and rather than fix, the PO decided to cut the wire. Is it common/possible for the switch to fail in the 'grounded' position with the light always on vs ungrounded with the light always off? Why not just start it and find out....see below
 
 - I am coming close (within a few days) of completing a TE rebuild, and reason why I wanted to take care of the oil light. If I am in a situation on first start up where I cannot trust the oil switch / light, what is another good way to verify oil pressure? Is it logical to assume that if I see oil making its way to the top (viewing by taking tappet covers off?) that there is at least enough pressure to push oil through the system? Worth using a temporary external oil pressure gauge...even the cheap Chinese ones off Amazon, to measure at startup?

[bmcdonou]

Pic attached.

[Don R]

 I'm wondering if a 12 point socket would get a grip? That said, I'm a retired plumber with an extensive history of using channel locks on a problem.

[newday777]

On what bike???

[newday777]

Pic attached.

Like Don said, use a 12 point socket or 12 point box wrench.

[bmcdonou]

75 CB550.

Will try. I also tried chanel locks (see marks on sides) but wouldn't budge. But didn't do full tilt. Wanted to stop short and just confirm I wasn't being stupid and missing something obvious.

[bryanj]

Definately a metric 12 point socket or ring spanner and remember its a tapered thread so dont try super tightening it or you risk cracking the pump casing

[CycleRanger]

An actual oil pressure switch socket probably won't fit in that space.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTTW1130

Worst case you can remove the whole oil pump to get better access to the oil pressure sensor.

[scottly]

I found the wire cut so I reconnected and now the light turns on with key.

That's what it's supposed to do, then when the engine is started and there is oil pressure the light goes out.

[bmcdonou]

Got it off. It was really on there. Not sure the PO read the thread about it being tapered. I believe it was an aftermarket part as well.

I realize it was working, or at least creating a ground for key on. My logic in replacing it was suspicion that the PO must have cut the wire for a reason and I wanted a new OEM part for first start up. I know they can fail, but dyk if they can fail both ways - either stuck on or stuck off?

[bryanj]

More common to fail putting light on but have been known to fail where light doesnt work.
Whilst a car one will fit a lot of them operate at a different pressure.

The most common fault is an oil leak from the screw area

[BenelliSEI]

Got it off. It was really on there. Not sure the PO read the thread about it being tapered. I believe it was an aftermarket part as well.

I realize it was working, or at least creating a ground for key on. My logic in replacing it was suspicion that the PO must have cut the wire for a reason and I wanted a new OEM part for first start up. I know they can fail, but dyk if they can fail both ways - either stuck on or stuck off?

They often fail open and closed, because they are full of “goo”. I usually throw them in a small pot of boiling water for 10 minutes, then blow out the hole with brakleen. 1/2 the time that does it!

[Deltarider]

[...]
They often fail open and closed, [...]

I agree.

I usually throw them in a small pot of boiling water for 10 minutes, then blow out the hole with brakleen. 1/2 the time that does it!

What is 'brakleen'?

[bryanj]

Aerosol tric "Brake Clean"

[HondaMan]

I use a [really] big adjustable Crescent wrench that I originally bought for removing the 750 switch. The 500/550 switch body is slightly different, easier to get onto with this wrench because of the location.

Most of them that I've seen fail will not light the lamp at all unless the engine is hot and then shut off (with the RUN-STOP switch). Cold engine again makes it stop working again. This is usually from dirt in the contacts, but it's really hard to get those clean. New switches are cheap! They turn OFF at 6-7 PSI as pressure rises and turn back on at 3-4 PSI when it is falling.

[WhyNot2]

I use a [really] big adjustable Crescent wrench that I originally bought for removing the 750 switch. The 500/550 switch body is slightly different, easier to get onto with this wrench because of the location.

Most of them that I've seen fail will not light the lamp at all unless the engine is hot and then shut off (with the RUN-STOP switch). Cold engine again makes it stop working again. This is usually from dirt in the contacts, but it's really hard to get those clean. New switches are cheap! They turn OFF at 6-7 PSI as pressure rises and turn back on at 3-4 PSI when it is falling.

Do you have a source for the adjustable wrench for the 750. I need one for my 750.

Thanks in advance bro

[HondaMan]

I use a [really] big adjustable Crescent wrench that I originally bought for removing the 750 switch. The 500/550 switch body is slightly different, easier to get onto with this wrench because of the location.

Most of them that I've seen fail will not light the lamp at all unless the engine is hot and then shut off (with the RUN-STOP switch). Cold engine again makes it stop working again. This is usually from dirt in the contacts, but it's really hard to get those clean. New switches are cheap! They turn OFF at 6-7 PSI as pressure rises and turn back on at 3-4 PSI when it is falling.

Do you have a source for the adjustable wrench for the 750. I need one for my 750.

Thanks in advance bro

It's a real big Craftsman crescent wrench: I think it is their 12" version. It opens up to a little over 1.35" size. I saw one like it at Ace Hardware last week: they have the Craftsman tool line, now. I think also Lowe's has them (probably cheaper there).

[WhyNot2]

I use a [really] big adjustable Crescent wrench that I originally bought for removing the 750 switch. The 500/550 switch body is slightly different, easier to get onto with this wrench because of the location.

Most of them that I've seen fail will not light the lamp at all unless the engine is hot and then shut off (with the RUN-STOP switch). Cold engine again makes it stop working again. This is usually from dirt in the contacts, but it's really hard to get those clean. New switches are cheap! They turn OFF at 6-7 PSI as pressure rises and turn back on at 3-4 PSI when it is falling.

Do you have a source for the adjustable wrench for the 750. I need one for my 750.

Thanks in advance bro

It's a real big Craftsman crescent wrench: I think it is their 12" version. It opens up to a little over 1.35" size. I saw one like it at Ace Hardware last week: they have the Craftsman tool line, now. I think also Lowe's has them (probably cheaper there).

So it's basically a regular large adjustable. No special teeth or shape.

Guess, I'll just have to keep trying,

Ok Thanks.

[BenelliSEI]

You can also remove the cam chain tensioner and then drop on the correct 12 point socket……