Topic: Chain (OVER)Lubrication

[BenelliSEI]

Drooling front sprocket area on my cb750K3 forever..... Pulled the front sprocket today (new set of sprockets and chain on the way). The lubricator screw was wide open and no rubber "hat"!

[BenelliSEI]

Small slice of the correct size “oil/fuel resistant” reinforced hose and it’s fixed. Once the bolt is installed, I’ll back the screw out a few turns and problem solved.

[HondaMan]

Yeah, but think of how well-preserved all those greasy parts are, now!?

Does your riding jacket have those cool racing stripes down the left back shoulder?

mine still does. Hard to get out of the leather...

[BenelliSEI]

Yep. Cleaning up the mess!

[Killer Canary]

Is that system actually worthwhile once it's been set up?
It uses engine oil from the tank?

[newday777]

Is that system actually worthwhile once it's been set up?
It uses engine oil from the tank?

It uses oil from the crankcase

[M 750K6]

I've stopped using aerosol chain lubes as, no matter what they promise, they create a mess and dirt seems to stick to them. I've also still had rust appear in winter riding. And they're stupidly expensive.

Now I use engine oil, applied from an oil can. 20W50 (fully synthetic!) was what I had lying around. The fling from the chain is no worse than aerosol lube, very easy to wipe the chain and wheel clean and no rust. Just flip the bike onto the centrestand, spin the wheel and a couple of squirts from the can, every 100-200 miles, or a wipe down and oil straight after a wet ride. A thorough clean with diesel brushed onto the chain, once a year, with a monthly / 200 mile wipe down with an old T-shirt in between. Takes about 5 minutes. I can't say how it affects wear, as I've been doing it for about 2 years / 2 winters, but none of the chains have required adjustment yet, one bike having so far done just under 5,000 miles. I use a good quality (non o-ring) chain. They look brand new after the diesel treatment.

[BenelliSEI]

I close them off. They usually just make a mess and don’t get any lubrication where it matters. If I have a non”0” ring chain off for any reason, I usually give it a good scrub with a brush and dry towel, and then soak it for a while in a tray of used motor oil. Move it around occasionally to try and get oil into the pins. Hang it up on a nail, over the tray to drip overnight….  Wipe down and put it back.

If a chain gets really grotty, I’ll brush it off and use a brand of “chain wax” spray I buy at a local shop. It seems to fly off a little less.

[willbird]

I've stopped using aerosol chain lubes as, no matter what they promise, they create a mess and dirt seems to stick to them. I've also still had rust appear in winter riding. And they're stupidly expensive.

Now I use engine oil, applied from an oil can. 20W50 (fully synthetic!) was what I had lying around. The fling from the chain is no worse than aerosol lube, very easy to wipe the chain and wheel clean and no rust. Just flip the bike onto the centrestand, spin the wheel and a couple of squirts from the can, every 100-200 miles, or a wipe down and oil straight after a wet ride. A thorough clean with diesel brushed onto the chain, once a year, with a monthly / 200 mile wipe down with an old T-shirt in between. Takes about 5 minutes. I can't say how it affects wear, as I've been doing it for about 2 years / 2 winters, but none of the chains have required adjustment yet, one bike having so far done just under 5,000 miles. I use a good quality (non o-ring) chain. They look brand new after the diesel treatment.

Quite a few folks use plain old 80/90 synthetic gear lube with good results too. A pint is maybe a lifetime supply for many, they just put some in a small squeeze dropper bottle for trips.


Bill

[scottly]

Is that system actually worthwhile once it's been set up?
It uses engine oil from the tank?

There is an air/oil separator in the oil tank, that condenses oil from the frothy oil delivered from the scavenge pump, and drains into the spigot on the back of the case. Inside the case there is a tray the oil drips into, that guides the oil into the center of the hollow counter shaft. On the sprocket side, there is a porous sintered bronze "baffle" the rubber end of the adjuster, if present, seats against. In reality, it can work well, especially when riding at high speeds for long distances, but the oil delivery is somewhat variable, depending on how foamed up the oil is, and after sitting for a while on the sidestand, oil will continue to seep out of the hollow shaft.   

[Killer Canary]

No further questions, professor.

[Rayzerman]

The answer to all your chain lubing issues...... A friend showed me his, and it's rather brilliant and dead simple.... and cheap.  I mounted mine out of the way on a rear footpeg mount, but some put it on the handlebars (ugly to me).  All one does is route the tube to hit the middle of the chain forward of the rear sprocket.  Fill with 90W-ish gear oil, the stuff we all used way back in the old days.  When you go ride in the morning, turn the knob/cap 1/4 turn clockwise and it will dispense drips of oil for the next little while.  This will keep the chain/sprocket lubed and essentially rinsed off without any noticeable fling-off.  There is some as you ride, but you'll not find it all over your rear end.  If you're riding all day, another 1/4 turn at lunchtime, then forget about it the rest of the day.  If you're using it too much, you'll get drips on the floor when you park it.  A reservoir full will last a long time, 2-3000 miles.

I use this every ride, and very occasionally will I use a spray lube.  If your chain side plates look dirty after a while, a quick wipe with a rag dampened in mineral spirits/kerosene/naptha...   did I mention cheap and easy, and it just plain works?

You can find different colours (I recommend black) and brands at various prices but they're all the same...~$30.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009589622590.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.14.28c01370x6EwKJ&algo_pvid=a6ff7d49-d203-461f-9495-577ad9caa541&algo_exp_id=a6ff7d49-d203-461f-9495-577ad9caa541-13&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22-1%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21CAD%2141.12%2121.38%21%21%21209.80%21109.09%21%402101c5a417550169083288665ec34c%2112000049553681690%21sea%21CA%21165953483%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=yK7HaPBk4gxv&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009589622590%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

[BenelliSEI]

I use this every ride, and very occasionally will I use a spray lube.  If your chain side plates look dirty after a while, a quick wipe with a rag dampened in mineral spirits/kerosene/naptha...   did I mention cheap and easy, and it just plain works?

Clever! I’ll try one on my Varadero. Thanks.

[willbird]

I use this every ride, and very occasionally will I use a spray lube.  If your chain side plates look dirty after a while, a quick wipe with a rag dampened in mineral spirits/kerosene/naptha...   did I mention cheap and easy, and it just plain works?

Clever! I’ll try one on my Varadero. Thanks.

I threw down and bought a ScottOiler for the CB500X. OEM chain went 8k and it was done for, Honda uses an O ring type OEM. I set the dispense level pretty spicy, I have 4K miles on the replacement chain now. I wipe the chain with Kroil on a red shop rag every 1K and clean up whatever mess the oiler has given me. Their eco friendly oil may be Canola oil ?? The Kano Kroil smells cool and does a super nice job wiping off the chain. I had to buy the more expensive ScottOiler because the CB500X has no factory vacuum ports and I was not feeling the love for drilling and tapping one into the assembled engine.

Bill