Topic: Brake pads to CB750K0-K6 - what type and brand

[Treve]

Hello al of you
New to this forum. From Sweden and I try to put my CB750-K6-1976 back on road again.
I have checked FAQ and can´t find this topic. Even read some other treads and can´t see any updated answers. So I go for a new topic.

I think this with brake pads for our old Hondas is a jungle. There are a multitude of different models and different materials offered by different companies. According to “Hondaman” – Mark Paris (page IIIB-9) in his book “My CB750 book” (2010), he recommends “pads with sintered bronze and/or ceramic bits embedded” for our stainless steel discs.

Can you find such today?
What brand and type?

Mark is angry about so-called “environmentally friendly” pads. I don’t know what he really means. Feels a bit like the “organic” type?! When you search the websites now, every other puck is made with “organic” base. He means that the ECO argument “IMO that term may refer to the result of your body turning into fertiliser in the ground after your unsuccessfuly attempt to use them in the rain”.

Cool comment – but does it still apply today?

Or has this "organic" basic structure become so much better since 2010? It's not fun to buy pads for 80-100 $/pair and then not get a good effect from the stuff.

OR
- What brand and type of pads do you buy today for your CB750 K0-K8 to get the best performance? Good stoping an no noice.
- Where do you buy these?
- What brand?

CMSNL here in Europe sells several types but there is a very poor accounting of what type of pads you buy. A bit of a "pig in a poke". David Silver in Great Britten is the same!

OR
Is it Honda Original parts that apply?
PadA (Towards the piston) 45105-341-305
PadB 45106-341-305
But here too you don't get any guidance on how they are built. But Mark says “Honda NOS – they are a good choice”. Does that still apply today?

Interesting to hear how all of you are doing
Live well
Anders

[bryanj]

For years i used Vesrah organic but not easy to find anymore. EBC seems to be the go to now

[BenelliSEI]

The EBC organic pads I’ve used work well and are available…..

[spotty]

i use SBS brand pads in my bikes, though to be honest i wouldn't use the stock honda calipers except as paperweights, i've replaced the stock lower fork legs with CB750/900 ones which accept real calipers and can be easily modified to take 4 piston calipers

i know SBS do pads for stock calipers though i can't remember if they do them in different compounds, if they do then HS is the one to go for, H = high friction S = sintered

[Treve]

Halo
Thanks a lot for your replys.
I have seen this on from sbs:
https://www.sbs.dk/products/brake-pad/502hf

This one from EBC:
https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/mc-disc-pad-set-dmx-fa012
But it looks suspicious with that saying "Totally ECO friendly" in the text.
I will check if EBC makes different types than this.

The one I think might be the better ones is sbs. But so far I have not find any dealer her in Sweden. No webb-dealer either. 

Thanks

[bryanj]

If you can find what you want in uk i will act as middle man for cost of postage to you

[PeWe]

It is easier to order from eBay or another seller. (YamiyaCB750.com has super pricey shipping to Sweden.)

My K2 got EBC last time
Like this
https://ebay.us/m/bQg03z
It had Vesrah green before. I did not replaced them because they were worn
I see that they do not ship to Sweden. I have ordered before. Must be an error they can change.

The problem is not to find the parts. It is to find a seller with OK shipping cost. Shipping has doubled and tripled the last years.
UK really fine before BREXIT.


My K6 has dual front brakes and use David silver pads. They were cheap back in 2016. Brakes work fine.

My K2 has only single brake so the riding style is look forward and use the throttle! Brake is almost working in legal speeds. Acceleration damper.

I'll install ss braided brake hoses all the way. It has only the top hose, cheap rubber lower.
I have a new bottom ss hose to install from  here.

https://honda4parts.nl/index.php?cPath=1023_901_149_222_576

They have pads too. Good seller.
They use prepay via bank transfer which work fine.

https://honda4parts.nl/index.php?cPath=1023_901_149_222_579

I think Lelles in Uppsala has SBS front pads. Had for many years ago. Better to mail or call them
https://www.lellesmc.se/

I bought my CB750K6 there in Uppsala  early 1979. Lelle Westin sold it to me, himself on the contract I still have.

[Stev-o]

+1 EBC...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/317763344029?_skw=1974+Honda+CB750&epid=171167284&itmmeta=01KHBV6HTHFHPSEMBZVTPHFBR0&hash=item49fc2bd69d%3Ag%3AfCYAAeSw6fNpZ5hj&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8DKQclQvzFwZQpmMrsO4Lup5fR9dEmrlqcIzBJzadRrzIBr4ftNdkrgCwfdCWRpPh%2FNDpeLUO7S5%2BCxNJEVQpLmyaDaJfZf36L4hq2bQsVJJVbryso94TKPiEY4S%2BdzG8bd%2Fks7H7SjtdDsqXw5FdLnQGYk349z1T0T4SUaIkUGxkGA42fr%2Fsawjzrj5B4GIygWMCCp7XfnC45700dzkVP8D9F3ET1n2fVwAEP8dC4GH7EjZgcZPWg3AcWiFIEHWtH9mxwEVTwAI%2BQDfaHvsbZ5DM86KHaSO2q14Qj5K3PxTrz5vOP6wjbWTQnU5dvr4Xw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMuJ2a-4pn&fits=Year%3A1974%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACB750

[PeWe]

Search  (Google ) in Swedish to get closer with much lower shipping cost

https://www.motoaction.se/bromsbelagg-fa-ebc-p1704253

[grcamna2]

I use Ferodo pads on a different model Honda:not sohc4.
I like Ferodo street compound shoes and pads.

[Treve]

If you can find what you want in uk i will act as middle man for cost of postage to you

Many thanks for that offer "bryanj"

The same to ""Stev-o" fore the link.

A lot nice reading from my fellow citizen - "PeWe" - In there are some useful tip I will try. Will mail Lelles an see what he got.

I have decided to keep my K6 with it´s patina. Drive it as much as I cane in competition with our GL1800. Use it manly as my winter therapy - years to come as a pensioner. Making some improvements every year. This winter i will put it back on the road again. The carburetor bridge is newly renovated on my workbench - soon to be installed again. The front brake is completely dismantled. Was in great need of renovation. This past month I've checked off the list of things needed to get dual disks in place. I am almost done. Only six M8x110 strews are missing. I will "play" with a HealTec synchronisation tool when I have the engine back to life.

So the brake pad material is important to make this rebuild as good as possible. Unfortunately, I'm probably a little too picky when it comes to choosing things for my projects. But good brakes may be a matter of life and death.

Did you "PeWe" install your dual disks by yourself? I have lots of inputs from various sources. But have you some special thoughts dealing with rebuild?

I think I have had a loots of input in this subject.
Thanks al. I´l give report later when this part is finished.
Anders
 

[Tim2005]

For semi-sintered EBCs get a set of FA12V s, the V is relevant. FA12 s without the V are the organics. 

[seanbarney41]

one note on Ferodo pads....when they say they are for race use, believe them!  Made the mistake of using a Ferodo race compound and you have to work pretty hard to get them hot enough to achieve what they are capable of.

[PeWe]

There is a forum thread about dual front brakes. A long lasting one
My K6 got it 2016. I read that thread back then.
Not cheap then but cost much more today.
Caliper for right side from Yamiya750.com. 

Longer bolts and speedo gear plate
https://ebay.us/m/EltTAy

I replaced both discs. From David silver UK.
I used their aftermarket master caliper too. The std 14mm work fine for dual brakes as well as single.
Metal braided brake lines.

Note! I worked on both my CB750's a few weeks ago. Changed brake fluid.
Saw that the return hole in MC was blocked. No fluid splashed up when pumping.

I had a new MC I bought for some years ago from DSS to my 3rd build.
So I used that on my K6.

Same on my K2. Blocked return hole. This can cause locked brake

I ordered a new MC  from Honda4parts.nl.
I'll fix this before spring.
It seems the MC need to be serviced more frequent. I replaced the fluid 4 years ago. It was ok then.

Have a spare MC and clean the old for next time. Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner job.

I do all upgrades/ service in.my garage.
Only thing I cannot do is restore head with new guides, cut seats etc and porting. + Bore cylinder with all kind of milling jobs of upper case, head, cylinder, piston crowns etc.
I have a shop nearby that do that.

[PeWe]

Brake alternative. I'm sure a single disc can be a good stopper!
https://good-bits.co.uk/shop/

[Treve]

For semi-sintered EBCs get a set of FA12V s, the V is relevant. FA12 s without the V are the organics.

That was an interesting point. The problem is that there are often bad information when one bay stuff on internet.  That´s why I am quit suspicious in my approach to this.

"PeWe" - many interesting points in your answer. But the "dual disk"-talk is another topic. Maybe I PM you. Maybe I don´t need dual disks but the process of getting it in place triggers me. As a former farmer, I built a lot of stuff in my workshop. I need something technical to keep my mind busy.

I do all upgrades/ service in.my garage.
Only thing I cannot do is restore head with new guides, cut seats etc and porting. + Bore cylinder with all kind of milling jobs of upper case, head, cylinder, piston crowns etc.
I have a shop nearby that do that.

This give me thoughts about the need of cutting of the two lower frame tubes in order to be able to lift the top cover and head without a full engine mount. I think I have to rebuilt my head in a near future. Cyl 2 have a little lover compression. Workshops that can do these jobs don't grow on trees. I did´t knew that this were an option before I stumbled upon this in this forum. "Gordon frame kit" and others. This is another project that triggers me.

[PeWe]

I'm sure that a single brake upgrade will cost less.
There are people on this forum that have improved the braking power with a single front brake.
You have an engine to dig into.

If not restored and over 60.000km, bore with new pistons and head job. Maybe need of open the engine, replace crank bearings, all chains and tensioners.

Cruzinimage.net sell cheap pistons. Over size +0.50, 1.0mm. 
65mm 836cc. No deep pocket for hotter cam.
Ny K2 got 61.50mm K7 pistons that gave higher compression.
These need tight bore/piston clearance. Ca:  0.02 mm in total clearance .

Franks frame kit has been a good upgrade. Unfortunately not available today.
No welding, just drill holes for triangular bracing brackets and cut. I did that with engine in frame and carbs on. Only tank off.

[M 750K6]

On my 1975 850 Commando, I have the AP Racing callipers linked by PeWe, on a single front disk. They are excellent. Double the stopping power and feel of my stock Honda K6.

[PeWe]

The replica caliper might fit the wallet. It is not about winning a race, just stop a CB750 in time for things that will happen on common roads
https://good-bits.co.uk/product/classic-brake-caliper-replica/

A bracket that will line it all up next.
Would be fine without machining the fork.

Their disc too
https://good-bits.co.uk/product/brake-disc-new-replacement-upgrade/

Or F2 fork setup
https://good-bits.co.uk/product/honda-f750-front-end-set-up/

[MauiK3]

When I first did my second disc add on my K3 750 I had the bracket spacers a little off and the alignment was not right because of it. It worked but there was a lot of squeal and I could feel the drag when pushing. I don't remember the bracket dimensions but others here will know, after I did some alignment checks of the caliper to the disc I saw my error and was able to improve the alignment, it's all good now. I used a stock (repro) master cylinder after not being able to rebuild my original and keep it from weeping. The stock mc has a little more travel at the lever but has nice feel, it does not bottom out at all. I've heard that the larger mc's feel more "wooden". Mine came with two discs (only one installed) so I sent them both to TruDisc for machining, they came back very nice, drilled. Not everyone can drill that stainless and trying to do it without a dividing head would be a real tough task, a job best left to a machinist with a shop equipped for it. Drilling sheds a little weight and makes stopping in rain a little better. In reality, I like the way they look and the way the lever feels, I don't ride aggressively enough to actually need the second disc and to be honest, one disc with less unsprung weight is actually better for day to day use. It's a personal thing. I got my caliper stuff from Yamiya750. Not cheap but a good shop.

[grcamna2]

There is a forum thread about dual front brakes. A long lasting one
My K6 got it 2016. I read that thread back then.
Not cheap then but cost much more today.
Caliper for right side from Yamiya750.com. 

Longer bolts and speedo gear plate
https://ebay.us/m/EltTAy

I replaced both discs. From David silver UK.
I used their aftermarket master caliper too. The std 14mm work fine for dual brakes as well as single.
Metal braided brake lines.

Note! I worked on both my CB750's a few weeks ago. Changed brake fluid.
Saw that the return hole in MC was blocked. No fluid splashed up when pumping.

I had a new MC I bought for some years ago from DSS to my 3rd build.
So I used that on my K6.

Same on my K2. Blocked return hole. This can cause locked brake

I ordered a new MC  from Honda4parts.nl.
I'll fix this before spring.
It seems the MC need to be serviced more frequent. I replaced the fluid 4 years ago. It was ok then.

Have a spare MC and clean the old for next time. Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner job.

I do all upgrades/ service in.my garage.
Only thing I cannot do is restore head with new guides, cut seats etc and porting. + Bore cylinder with all kind of milling jobs of upper case, head, cylinder, piston crowns etc.
I have a shop nearby that do that.

A quality machine shop service not far from you is very helpful. 

[scottly]

There is a rating system for the friction coefficient of pads, consisting of two letters, ranging from E to H, where the first letter represents the cold performance and the second represents the hot performance. The EBC FA012 pads have a GG rating, which is less "grippy" than HH. The small pad area of the stock calipers is a limiting factor, and the swinging design is prone to other issues, such as the pads not sitting flat against the disc. The best/easiest solution is to swap in F2/F3 forks and then fit Honda two piston calipers from 1982 and up bikes. The 32mm version has more piston area than a single 45mm piston, and pads are available in an HH compound. These calipers are usually inexpensive. There is a thread about this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,89771.0.html
I am currently using a single 32mm caliper with a 320mm Ducati disc, and it works better than a dual disc system, not to mention that it's lighter than a single stock disc and caliper.

[Treve]

This is an absolutely amassing forum.  Sooo much knowledge and imaginative ideas. It's definitely a potential disaster for your wallet.

I looked on Brembo's website and found their 07HO0229 for our K machines. Carbone Ceramic. According to "skottly":s lesion - "HO" what are the "O" stand fore? Is this a kind of race-pad? Do any of you have experience with these? Sounds nice to have Brembo-stuff on the bike (haughtiness)

I have also find EBC "V" -pads on eBay. They are semi-sintered. Some articles says with "organic with cooper" inlay. If I read on EBC:s official webbsight I can´t find anything about these "EBC FA012V"-pads. Only the "FA012" organic ones. Are they dismissed?

Well - it's time to decide how far from the original I'm going to go. Just extra stuff that was available in the 70s or mix and match things that fit and look good?! So far I've stuck to the 70s line and already have most och that stuff. I will sleep a night or two.

The engine -I don't really know anything about it. It's full of Allen screws. Permatex glue is peeking out here and there. It's probably been broken into pieces at some point. The intakes in the head are untouched. I have installed a Dyna S switch-less system. That´s al. There are thoughts of tearing down the engine next winter to check the status. Get the head restored. And "port" the intake according to Mark Paris' instructions in "My CB750-book". Then there will probably be a reboring of the cylinder - if that proves necessary. It has 75,000+ km according to the odometer. What if it is the original odometer!?

I really appreciate al your all your exciting and knowledgeable posts.
Anders

[PeWe]

There are also guys on this forum that have replaced the MC by a later one from other bikes and got a better brake.
Maybe 1980-90's bikes.

It is rather tight between right hand switches with throttle and the tachometer. So it can not be too wide.
It must have M10 fine threads for the mirror too.

EDIT:
MC piston bore of 12.5mm might improve a single disc setup. Stock MC has 14 mm.

[Treve]

Just now I have these pads on my list and available on eBay ore other seller:
 
1- SBS 502HF Ceramic with so cal NUCAP NRS-tecnologi (less or no squelch)
2- EBC FA012V
3- Brembo 07HO0229 Carbon Ceramic
4- Vesrah (markt 10DM? in the back) (no green color) (probably an old stock)
5- Girling/TRW MCB32 (probably an ld stock) (fair price)
6- Honda NOS (no information about type)
7- WeBike:s PMC-pads. (no information about type)

My present favourites - after reading this topic - are in order - 3), 2) and 1). I am curious to know more about 4)
What do your priorities look like?

[gotorx7]

Another vote for the EBC Organics - I found them a big improvement over OEM..

Cheers, Dave