Author Topic: disc caliper reversal. (Read 10403 times)

eldar · « **Reply #25 on:** July 13, 2005, 01:56:15 PM »

Well bendo, I can probably answer some things for Ben.

It is probably not the stock master. The stock masters where made for 1 caliper and dont really have the power to operate 2. So you end up using a master from a dual caliper bike.

The brake like can be split in 2 ways from what I have heard. You can get a longer banjo bolt to accomodate 2 brake lines at the master OR you can use splitter ( I dont know the tech term) that directs the fluid into 2 lines. The second is the most common method I think. THere are probably the same issues with squeal and drag but if the calipers are both assembled properly, this will be minimal. If the brake is adjusted properly, drag should be almost nothing.

I am not sure about the beveling, I would think yes for best results.

cben750f0 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 13, 2005, 06:05:59 PM »

endo,eldar.. i have posted a doco(tutorial) on the double disc set up i did...i think harry put it in the FAQ... it has pics aswell check it out... peace

here is the link http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=2582.0

BTW have cropped the guard off today, and cleaned it up... heres what it looks like...peace

Spear · « **Reply #27 on:** July 14, 2005, 05:56:44 AM »

Sh!t man. What's all that crap in the background of your photo? Is that the left-overs from this one, or the beginnings of the next one?

cben750f0 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 14, 2005, 06:19:03 AM »

yeah the shed is home to alot of 'stuff'... i live with my missus and her fam... so there are 7 ppl in the house at any one time.... everyone has'stuff'..peace

BTW u like the trimmed guard?

cben750f0 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 15, 2005, 03:54:04 AM »

to endobendo, no the holes arent chamfered... there is no need... drill the holes, and use a wet stone to get ride of the high spots.... i was warned about chamfering the holes... though noone could explain why it was bad, so figured that i would be better safe than sorry...

and i am useing a VTR1000F master cyle that i had laying round.... peace

Caferacernoc · « **Reply #30 on:** July 15, 2005, 08:57:35 AM »

That looks awesome. I'll bet it works nice, too.

crazypj · « **Reply #31 on:** April 30, 2006, 11:36:20 AM »

The only problems I had fitting dual discs were,
1. Brake and tyre wear (when you know you can stop you leave braking that much later and ride faster as well

) went from around 6,000 miles on front tyre to 2,500 and 6,500 to 2,000 or less on brake pads ( burned one set out the same day I fitted them, EBC green work well in the wet but dont try more than one real hard stop in the dry, about 200miles total, and cooked brake fluid)
2. fender bracket, use spring washers to take up play in the mounting holes when rubber cushions are removed ( I really dont like the idea of a rubber mounted fork brace?)
I didnt use the metal lines, fitted Aeroquip 3 piece, over length to go direct from splitter to caliper.
I just turned 49, dont ride as fast anymore but still leave braking way to late, on third front tyre and 4th set of brake pads in 16,500 miles
PJ

KB02 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 02, 2006, 05:55:44 AM »

Quote from: crazypj on April 30, 2006, 11:36:20 AM

I didnt use the metal lines, fitted Aeroquip 3 piece, over length to go direct from splitter to caliper.

Could you explain that a little in more detail? I am also looking at the dual dsk conversionand was thinking of just eliminating the steel lines, but I'm not sure how to do it.

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 02, 2006, 07:19:16 AM »

On my new dual-disc setup, the calipers are also behind the lower legs.
Still need to get them sorted out...

dusterdude · « **Reply #34 on:** May 02, 2006, 09:10:58 AM »

Quote from: KB02 on May 02, 2006, 05:55:44 AM

Quote from: crazypj on April 30, 2006, 11:36:20 AM
I didnt use the metal lines, fitted Aeroquip 3 piece, over length to go direct from splitter to caliper.

Could you explain that a little in more detail? I am also looking at the dual dsk conversionand was thinking of just eliminating the steel lines, but I'm not sure how to do it.

you use a teflon lined stainless steel braided hose,you can buy them for earls perfomance and other manufacturers,i have had very good luck with earls.you will need to figure what pieces to buy and put the lines together yourself.very easy to do,not hard at all.i use number 3 line,some folks use number 4.i think thats a matter of preference.good luck

KB02 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 02, 2006, 11:26:44 AM »

but what replaces the nut that goes into the caliper? Can I just swap it out with a banjo bolt? Are they the same threat? Or would I need a special adapter?

I've already got the hose. I bought ten feet of it going into the project to replace the old, cracked ruber hose. I just need to know what fitting I will need, basically

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 02, 2006, 12:05:02 PM »

Quote from: KB02 on May 02, 2006, 11:26:44 AM

I've already got the hose. I bought ten feet of it going into the project to replace the old, cracked ruber hose.

If you are gonna do a dual-disc update, why would you use rubber hose ? It will just expand, make you
loose pressure, and eventually rot/crack like the stock piece. You might as well to some brained lines while you are
at it.

Just my 2cents..

dusterdude · « **Reply #37 on:** May 02, 2006, 12:24:30 PM »

joe,you need to give yourself a raise dude.

KB02 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 03, 2006, 07:37:46 AM »

Quote from: ProTeal55 on May 02, 2006, 12:05:02 PM

If you are gonna do a dual-disc update, why would you use rubber hose ? It will just expand, make you
loose pressure, and eventually rot/crack like the stock piece. You might as well to some brained lines while you are
at it.
Just my 2cents..

Oh, worry not. It's the braided line that I already have.

Basically, All I need is a disk and a caliper (and any apporopriate fittings). I have everything else. I had to replace my caliper and bought one off of ebay. It came with EVERYTHING but the disk and and hoses.

Now I have spare parts.

crazypj · « **Reply #39 on:** May 03, 2006, 07:51:33 AM »

Quote from: KB02 on May 02, 2006, 05:55:44 AM

Quote from: crazypj on April 30, 2006, 11:36:20 AM
I didnt use the metal lines, fitted Aeroquip 3 piece, over length to go direct from splitter to caliper.

Could you explain that a little in more detail? I am also looking at the dual dsk conversionand was thinking of just eliminating the steel lines, but I'm not sure how to do it.

There are at least three ways of doing this. You can get straight fittings that seal on the cone, use banjo bolts or use swivel fittings with either angled ends or straight ends
With caliper behind fork banjo bolts work well and put line into a nice curve. I think I used 30degree banjo fittings ( may have been 45 deg?)
Get Harley sealing washers, they dont crush, have rubber seals in centre. The caliper wasnt designed to seal in this fashion but it works and I've never had any leaks.
Its a 'standard' metric motorcycle 10 x 1.25mm thread bolt
PJ

Ricisan · « **Reply #40 on:** November 29, 2006, 08:18:06 PM »

In the 80s I think it was Kaw Superbike that did it first. They said it cured a headshake. They didn't call it "mass centralising" but it does use gravity to stabilize the forks.

Ricisan

HondaMan · « **Reply #41 on:** November 29, 2006, 08:28:28 PM »

Quote from: crazypj on April 30, 2006, 11:36:20 AM

The only problems I had fitting dual discs were,
1. Brake and tyre wear (when you know you can stop you leave braking that much later and ride faster as well ) went from around 6,000 miles on front tyre to 2,500 and 6,500 to 2,000 or less on brake pads ( burned one set out the same day I fitted them, EBC green work well in the wet but dont try more than one real hard stop in the dry, about 200miles total, and cooked brake fluid)
2. fender bracket, use spring washers to take up play in the mounting holes when rubber cushions are removed ( I really dont like the idea of a rubber mounted fork brace?)
I didnt use the metal lines, fitted Aeroquip 3 piece, over length to go direct from splitter to caliper.
I just turned 49, dont ride as fast anymore but still leave braking way to late, on third front tyre and 4th set of brake pads in 16,500 miles
PJ

Hotrod...

(I can say this, because I did that, too. Honda's own pads weren't much better, and I cooked the rubber brake hoses in my second race!).

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #42 on:** November 29, 2006, 08:37:14 PM »

Rubber brake hoses

Sam.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #43 on:** November 30, 2006, 02:33:46 AM »

Quote from: samcr750 on November 29, 2006, 08:37:14 PM

Rubber brake hoses

Sam.

Well far be it from me to side with rubber hoses Sammy, but I've got them on both my Suzuki GS1000S and my BMW K1100LT, and I can say that on bikes with good brakes, rubber hoses are actually quite good. The trouble with braided lines is that they tend to lose a lot of "feel" and become very "wooden" in application, in other words, they become like a light switch, either "on" or "off", affording a rider little opportunity to ease them on, or off.

I had this problem with my old 1979 BMW R100RS, I'd converted it from the poxy ATE (volkswagen) brakes to beaut 2 piston Brembo's, and used a Suzuki GSXR1100 master cylinder with braided stainless lines, and they worked brilliantly, (I accidentally pulled a "stoppie" the first time I grabbed a handfull to avoid becoming part of a multi-car pile up) but were very "wooden" in feel, so I refitted rubber hoses, and they still worked great, but had heaps more feel. Cheers, Terry.

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #44 on:** November 30, 2006, 02:45:50 AM »

Agree with Terry. Modern bikes have huge stopping power and come with rubber hoses. The twin six-pot Nissins on my VFR are awesome.

I think we actually need to differentiate between new rubber hoses and 30 year old rubber hoses.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #45 on:** November 30, 2006, 02:57:10 AM »

Quote from: SteveD CB500F on November 30, 2006, 02:45:50 AM

Agree with Terry. Modern bikes have huge stopping power and come with rubber hoses. The twin six-pot Nissins on my VFR are awesome.

I think we actually need to differentiate between new rubber hoses and 30 year old rubber hoses.

I think I'm falling in love with a VFR750 Steve, the owner rides past me every morning at around 0530, and when he backs it off to slow for the corner, the burble of that V4 on the overrun, combined with the cam gear whine sounds to me like heaven on a stick! I wanty! Cheers, Terry.

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #46 on:** November 30, 2006, 03:24:45 AM »

The late 750s (96/97) were probably the best bikes Honda ever made. The 800 with Fi and VTEC etc etc is very easy to live with - just press the button and go, but not quite the same charisma (if you can every accuse a modern bike of having charisma).

In 25 years time, old gits like us will be chatting on sites like this (or whatever is around then) about the VFR750 the way we talk about CB750s.

BTW: I ditched the standard can as the engine gear noise was louder than the exhaust. My Micron race can sounds wonderful...

cben750f0 · « **Reply #47 on:** November 30, 2006, 05:50:23 AM »

mate i am glad this thread is still goin!!!!!.... though this talk of modern bikes is a bit disturbing!!( says he with an '01 CBR600

)

i have o agree though, a nice piped VFR sounds horn, mate of mine had a vance and hinse on his, and it sounded like a little nascar!!!!!..

peace

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #48 on:** November 30, 2006, 06:07:37 AM »

Don't get me wrong - I will never give up my 500/4, but neither would I submit it (her?) to a daily motorway grind in the pissing rain...

MRieck · « **Reply #49 on:** November 30, 2006, 06:14:22 AM »

Quote from: SteveD CB500F on November 30, 2006, 06:07:37 AM

Don't get me wrong - I will never give up my 500/4, but neither would I submit it (her?) to a daily motorway grind in the pissing rain...

Exactly Steve. I tried to explain that sentiment in "Bike of the Month".

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Author Topic: disc caliper reversal. (Read 10403 times)

eldar

Spear