Topic: Twisties today showed me I need an upgrade.

[sparty]

I took the bike into the twisties today for a little fun and some leans.  I found out quickly that I need better tires, rims, and suspension.  I almost lost the front end in a slow left hander, but it was due to light gravel.  I felt the front tire "roll" and skip to the right.  Nothing serious, just proof that you can never be too careful with these old bikes.

I planned to do my 9000 RPM 4th gear run, but had to get off the throttle before 8000.  I was running up the tail of a car too fast.  I never looked at the speedo, but it was over a ton when I slowed.

I found that if I set my rear shocks on the stiffest setting that my front tire doesn't come up as easily.  I also discovered that shifting from 3rd to 4th at 9000 RPMs launches my bike into warp speed.  Christ this thing is powerful.

I am sticking with the single disk up front.  It works fine with the gears to help chop speed.  The sport bike MC and braided lines also help.

I am in need of some good rubber, rear shocks, and Progressive fork springs.  Buchanans is getting a call.  My stock rims and spokes don't cut it.

Sparty

[paulages]

I am sticking with the single disk up front.  It works fine with the gears to help chop speed.  The sport bike MC and braided lines also help.

i would never run that power with the single-disk setup, but that's just me. the difference between my stock 750 and my dual disk 550 is unbelievable. i use engine braking a lot myself, but when i'm running around on twisty roads it sure does help to be able to brake within 100 yards of a turn.. 

[BobbyR]

I think Mike Reick created a monster here. I think i should by a Mass card if this keeps up. With a rebuilt MC and braided lines mine stops really well.

[sparty]

I think Mike Reick created a monster here. I think i should by a Mass card if this keeps up. With a rebuilt MC and braided lines mine stops really well.

The problem is this bike can't run slow.  In second gear it is already past the posted limit in most cases.  If I ride it like the engine wants to run, 60 is the slowest you can go so i don't lug the engine.  I never even get near half throttle.  In 4th today I was at 1/4 throttle at 7000.  Anything past 1/4 throttle in 2nd and the front tire goes up.

[Klark Kent]

I think Mike Reick created a monster here. I think i should by a Mass card if this keeps up. With a rebuilt MC and braided lines mine stops really well.

The problem is this bike can't run slow.  In second gear it is already past the posted limit in most cases.  If I ride it like the engine wants to run, 60 is the slowest you can go so i don't lug the engine.  I never even get near half throttle.  In 4th today I was at 1/4 throttle at 7000.  Anything past 1/4 throttle in 2nd and the front tire goes up.

poor guy

no really i am very happy for ya Art and not jealous at all.

be careful with that thing.
-KK

[Uncle Ernie]

I have Progressive on both ends.  The new shocks will probably get your butt up a half inch more, which will help- but is a pain using the sidestand.  Using pre-load doesn't really do anything with damping or rebound, but it will raise the back up some.
I like my Avons pretty well.  Going with rims wider than stock will slow your turning and make it feel heavier, but it won't make it any grippier.
Skipping over an inch when you hit a stone is fairly common.  A cushier suspension may help prevent that, but a stiffer suspension is more sport oriented because it keeps the wheel on the ground better.
Speaking of which- that's the big point of clip-ons.  They help get your weight forward, over the front wheel.

Just saying for myself; riding in the mountains on a bike like that was really scarey.  I couldn't modulate the gas coming out of turns, and felt like I'd shoot off into the trees.  Probably would have been a good track bike.
I sold it a month after I got it.

[mkramer1121]

Maybe throw on a GL1000 front end?  You can do the swap with your stock wheel for about $200.  You also get dual discs, and personally, I like the looks of the forks better.  I've got Progressive springs in them and Progressives in the rear.  The only issue I noticed with the Progressives is that they run close to the chain.  The springs starts a lot lower then stock.  Z1enterprises has them at a decent price ($250).

[eldar]

Sparty, first thing to do is figure out your primary riding position, then figure your suspension and rubber out.
Now bikes are different to a point BUT some basic suspension rules still apply.  With your suspension, softer will give a slower action which is good for preventing a jackhammer ride and makes your ride smoother and a more predictable. BUT if the dampening is springs are too soft then the shocks load up and will not respond fast enough to road changes.

If the springs are hard, then the tires will respond to changes quickly and will not settle as much but if too fast, will give a jackhammer ride and could cause tire hop costing vital traction.

You also have to take into account the weight of your shock oil. Light oil dampens less and heavier is heavier. So you have to decide on oil weight and then the spring load since our shocks are not so variable. Many new shocks for racing have different valves for the fluid which can also be changed.

Also the settings on one end will affect the other end too. You have found out that if the back is too soft the front gets lighter especially when you lay on the gas.

More to suspension than most people think.

[754]

Part of your sudden ability to do wheelies is your supension or lack of it.. which is really cool for a week and then you figure out you just cant ride it hard and safely.

Example.. my 81 R100RT Beemer had that cushy touring ride, so it was easy to wheelie, in fact I could get the wheel up shifting into third.. was doing it at the drags in Sturgis in 87.  A lot of folks think Beemer should not go straight in a wheelie, but it was a very easy bike to do wheeies on.. PS the crowd loved it!! but really poor reaction times..

[andy750]

Art, I have the Buchanan rims on the K4 and as Ernie mention the wider rims make turning a little heavier. Progressive springs up front do help a lot and Im looking myself to upgrade the back as my stock shocks are beginning to wallow somewhat. As for tires plenty to choose from and Ive found that I really like the Bridgestone BT45s on the K2 (stock sizes/rims) - very grippy. For your monster though who knows!!

As for skipping front wheel...I had the same problem this weekend on the Fall ride. It was a sharp right-hand turn at slow speed, wet patch on the ground and some light gravel. Went round the corner and my front wheel slipped and I almost went down. However it wasnt the old bike as Mikes Busa did the same (as he told me later) - just need to watch out on those tight turns.

keep us posted!
cheers
Andy

[KB02]

yeah, the front end of my duc decided to go... not entirely forward... in a tight right hander when hitting a tar snake last summer. They all do it. It's an improved ability to recover that improved tires and suspension will bring.

[scondon]

   "Tar snake", "What happened? I got bit by a tar snake"  Good one,KB02

   After the first 836 went together it became apparent that handling and braking HAD to be improved in order to use the engine as intended. Dual disks up front are standard on the F2, but I "upgraded" to '82 calipers. The brakes bite very well and slow the bike without having to hold the lever very long. This helps keep the brakes cooler with less potential for overheating/fading on the all day rides(my opinion).

  I also added Progressive springs up front and S&W Street Stroker shocks in the rear. I first thought the S&W shocks were a novelty "performance" shock from the '70's but they have turned out to be quite nice, though a bit stiff. I can set them in the bottom two positions and still have a "tight" ride.

  H1 style steering damper, TIA fork brace, and a bit of welding on the frame where it is just riveted together(up front, behind the oil cooler. Thanks for the tip bwaller). All this and the bike responds very well to acceleration, braking, and bumpy roads at higher speeds.

  The times I really notice and appreciate the upgrades are not when I am out "riding my ride" so much as when the unanticipated happens and I have to brake and/or turn a lot harder than expected. I very rarely ride to the limit so having all the extras has kept me upright and riding without that "near death" feeling that accompany a hard brake change of direction/frame flex or big bumps in the turns shifting my line towards the ditch/ oncoming traffic.

  Anyway, all that just to say "spare no expense" in tightening up your ride,Sparty. It will certainly increase the "grin" factor

[Master Ted]

I really like the Bridgestone BT45s on the K2 (stock sizes/rims) - very grippy

How many miles do you have on the BT45s and what kind of wear are you getting on rear wheel?

[andy750]

I have around 1000 miles on the BT-45s and havent noticed any significant wear on the rear (and yes I do ride this bike fast). I can take a photo of the rear and let you see. Ill try do this tonight.

cheers
Andy

[ofreen]

One of the reasons I was never interested in hotrodding the 750 was that it is easy to get more motor than you have chassis.  I had an '82 CB900F for a few years.  The chassis on it was a bit of an upgrade compared to the SOHC 750, but not by much.  The engine had a lot more power.  It was a nice bike, but the chassis was really not up to the engine's power.  That really became evident when I bought a new '87 GSX-R1100 and started playing with that.  That's when my education on power and handling really began.  The first GSX-R1100s were easy to get more power out of without a lot of expense because they came strangled from the factory.  Good as they were for the time, it didn't take long before their chassis were overwhelmed by more power.

So I decided to enjoy the 750 for what it is, and get my speed fix elsewhere.

[MRieck]

One of the reasons I was never interested in hotrodding the 750 was that it is easy to get more motor than you have chassis.  I had an '82 CB900F for a few years.  The chassis on it was a bit of an upgrade compared to the SOHC 750, but not by much.  The engine had a lot more power.  It was a nice bike, but the chassis was really not up to the engine's power.  That really became evident when I bought a new '87 GSX-R1100 and started playing with that.  That's when my education on power and handling really began.  The first GSX-R1100s were easy to get more power out of without a lot of expense because they came strangled from the factory.  Good as they were for the time, it didn't take long before their chassis were overwhelmed by more power.

So I decided to enjoy the 750 for what it is, and get my speed fix elsewhere.

I have had more fun getting power out of these strangled, overbuilt engines since i was 19 years old. If these things had gear drive to the clutch hub I would build even stronger engines.

[ofreen]

I have had more fun getting power out of these strangled, overbuilt engines since i was 19 years old. If these things had gear drive to the clutch hub I would build even stronger engines.

They are one of the great engines and had a good run.  I was sad when Suzook finally quit on them.  My brother has a lo mileage 1100 Katana he isn't doing anything with and I am trying to figure out a way to liberate it.

[MRieck]

I have had more fun getting power out of these strangled, overbuilt engines since i was 19 years old. If these things had gear drive to the clutch hub I would build even stronger engines.

They are one of the great engines and had a good run.  I was sad when Suzook finally quit on them.  My brother has a lo mileage 1100 Katana he isn't doing anything with and I am trying to figure out a way to liberate it.

An 82 ??

[Leino]

An 82 ??

I sure hope not! That would be a terrible waste! 
I mean if he isn't riding it...

[ofreen]

An 82 ??

I wish it was!  No, it's a '90.