Topic: First Time buffing, have some?'s

[Burke]

I started to experiment with my buffer last night.
I had an old CB360 brake hub for the test piece. I stripped the finish off with Aircraft stripper (works very well  ) then I began to buff. My only instructions were what I read on this forum and the instructions that came with the aluminum buffing kit that I ordered through eastwood.  The buffing coumpounds the were included were Tripoli & White Rouge.

After about 45mins I brought it from a dull piece of Aluminum to what looks like a crappy piece of chrome.
Now, some areas look great, smooth shiny, just like I wanted. Other areas look very scratchy. I didnt think these scratches were deep enough to warrant sanding. They are very smooth and were not evident after stripping the finish off.
Would this be caused too litte or too much compound? or something else

Will another round with the buffer take care of these or will I have to attack it with either 0000 steel wool or sand paper?

also I dont think my choice of the test part was very good, to many surfaces and deep areas. I am going to try a spare fork leg tonight, this will allow me to have a flat area.

[rhinoracer]

DO NOT use steel wool to buff aluminum. It will penetrate and rust spots will start appearing in the aluminum.

To polish aluminum to a chrome like finish you have to first sand with prigressively finer wet-or-dry sandpaper 220/400/800/1000 grit, then hit it with the buffer.

I don't think it's possible to bring a chrome finish using only ther buffer.

[Killer Canary]

I've used Artisan metal polish by POR-15 with results just as good as the compound wheel, without the fibers ending up all over the shed.

[Burke]

I've used Artisan metal polish by POR-15 with results just as good as the compound wheel, without the fibers ending up all over the shed.

What do you use with the POR-15 (mothers ball, drill with felt wheel?)?

[sbc1320]

I used 0000 steel wool and dipped it in Mother's Aluminum Polish. Works excellent and the aluminum doesn't have any rust in or on it. Probably because it is fine steel wool and all done by hand. Spent about an hour and a half on the valve cover while it was on the bike. Did all the left side covers on motor, lower fork housings, and rear hub. Didn't take no time to do the rear brake hub. Steel wool works much better than applying with a rag or cloth. My Father in Law has a mounted polisher, but I used just a bit more elbow grease. You would be surprised at the outcome and looks like some of the polished pieces they sell on Ebay. Try it, you will like it. Just my two cents. Will have to post a picture or two of my bike. Good luck to all.

[Jonesy]

Start with Emory Cake (Black Stick). This will cut though the crud really fast. Be careful as the parts will get hot in your hands and you will have to rake the wheel quite often to clean it out. Then move to Tripoli (Brown Stick) and go over the part again. This will take out the finer scratches. Only use the White Rouge for final buffing.

If the parts have severe pitting or deep scratches, you will likely need to work them out with fine sandpaper first.

[paulages]

i've been having pretty good results lately without having to wet sand at all. if there are deep scratches, i start with a paint stripping wheel on the drill press. you have to be careful with this one, as it will leave pretty deep scratches itself. by using varying pressure and different stripping wheels, you can work any deep scratches out without leaving gouges that are hard to work out with the finer wheels. then i use scotch brite wheels on the drill press to get it ready for the buffer. these are really the work-savers. the red pads are the only ones i've found easily on a wheel, but i've made ones with the finer grit pads with a mandrel. just found a place that could order me a box of the 600 grit equivalent with the center hole punched to my specification.

this one's not "chrome" exactly, but you get the idea:

[Spikeybike]

the key when using compound and polishing wheels , is to use the correct wheel with the correct compound :

brown compond: course wheel (the one that has the sown in spiral pattern)

white compound: soft wheel ( has one or two sown lines )

red compound: flannel wheel (is usually wider, and made of flannel)

those are the three steps i use on aluminum (in that order)

[bikehenge]

Hi Burke,
I've been pretty happy with a two step approach:
1) spiral sewn buff with tripoli followed by
2) loose buff with white rouge (I have also used a spiral buff for this step in a pinch)

If you try to use force to make your part shine you can induce scratches, just lay back and go easy.  I don't spend huge time to get the finish I want, but I find the 2 steps necessary to get the level of shine that makes me happy.  I can see myself in my parts, but they are not perfect.

Other things I do:
Use a good degreaser to get the part as clean as possible before starting.
Use a buff comb (probably not the right term) to periodically clean the buffs - If I apply more compound and notice the compound stick turns black, its time to clean the buff.
If I get black "mung" on the part I wipe it off with a cloth, I don't try to buff it off.

Good luck
Rob

[Roach Carver]

I saw a the process of making a moon oil/ fuel tank out of aluminum. when they get done they polish it up with steel wool, so I wonder if it is really such a no-no. I would think they would know by now.

[Jonesy]

That's a nice summary of the different types of wheels to use for certain compounds. I like to have separate wheels for each just so I don't have to clean them out between compounds.

Use a buff comb (probably not the right term) to periodically clean the buffs - If I apply more compound and notice the compound stick turns black, its time to clean the buff.

It's called a "wheel rake". I had to order mine online as when I'd ask for one at the hardware store they looked at me like I was from another planet...

If I get black "mung" on the part I wipe it off with a cloth, I don't try to buff it off.

That's a buildup of melted wax that carries the buffing abrasive. I clean it off quickly with a rag moistened with a shot of carb cleaner. Then I clean off the haze with a little Simichrome polish.

[bikehenge]

Thanks Jonesy, that's the tool I meant.  I got mine online from Eastwood.com. 
Rob

[bikehenge]

Something else I've done is to use files and sand paper to remove parting lines from castings when polishing parts like fork lowers and brake cylinders.  I think it gives a more finished look, sort of like removing weld BBs prior to powder coating a frame.

Polish On!
Rob

[Burke]

I took the advice here, and tried another piece. I was able to get an almost chrome look on thie piece (clutch cover) by keeping more compound on than I did before, and raking it often, and keeping the pressure light. Then going 90 degrees with my next compound. It's nor perfect by any means,  but I got a good start going.

I may wait to really practice it outside when the weather gets better, sine using the rake creates quite the lint cloud in the basement.