On the side of your carbs, just below the raised PD letters, you will find a small flat surface with your exact set up numbers stamped into the carb body.
The PD carbs were only used on the 77-78 K3 models and do NOT have an accelerator pump.
Since you are going use pod filters and a lower restriction exhaust, which likely has different flow characteristics than the stock units, and your particular combination will have different flow characteristics than anybody else's filter/pipe combination, you will have to determine which slow jet, slide needle, and main jet size works best for your individual set up.
Your floats are correctly installed
The exhaust restriction reduction changes the mixture requirements due to more complete cylinder evacuation of un-combustible gases. Meaning you will likely need to open the jet orifice to provide more fuel for the larger amount of oxygen now entering the cylinders. As back pressure can be modal, (different at different RPM settings) each of the carbs fuel metering adjustments can be effected in different mounts. Expect an IMS (Idle Mixture Screw) change from stock settings, at least (mostly impacting the throttle pickup from idle), and probably main jet orifice, and even Slide needle valve clip position adjustments.
The air filter change will also have its own impact on carb settings. Pod filters have (usually) less filter media restriction. And, since the engine is sucking through this media, the depth of the vacuum is reduced in the carb throat. This reduction pulls less fuel from any given fuel jet orifice. Although the volume of air the engine uses hasn't changed, (assuming valve timing or engine displacement remains the same) the pressure drop in the carb throats does. So, in order to restore the proper fuel-air mixture, the fuel metering orifice size may need to be increased for the filter restriction change. As the adjustment range of the IMS is limited, you may need to increase the size of the slow jet, (the smaller stub next to the center big main post in the carb bowl) to restore good throttle response from idle. Also, the main jet size may need to be addressed for wide open throttle (WOT). Then, for the the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle positions, the slide needle clips may need changing to improve mid-range mixture.
I'll post a chart showing adjustment significance related to throttle position.
Jet size prediction:
Beats me. If I knew quantitatively how the restrictive characteristics changed from the stock components, I might venture a guess. But, such data doesn't exist, or has been unavailable to me. For the home mechanic, reading spark plugs after a plug chop is the most economical route. Usually several runs and jet size/needle adjust changes will be done during the process. A Dyno is faster, and more expensive. But, will yield a better running bike.
Cheers,
Edited for typos
