Author Topic: Head removal 2 weeks after a fresh install - need help  (Read 793 times)

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Offline olds-cool

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Head removal 2 weeks after a fresh install - need help
« on: May 27, 2008, 07:22:51 PM »
About 2 weeks ago, I put the head on my motor and sealed it up with a nice coat of gasket sealer.  I had everything back together and ready for paint when I noticed the pinging sound of sticking valves.  I decided to go ahead and paint and figure the rest out later.  A few days ago someone else posted about the same pinging sound I was hearing and it turns out that it could be bent valves since I forgot to loosen or remove the tappet adjuster bolts when installing the valve cover, DOH!  So now I have to remove the head to figure out which valves are bent and replace them.  Problem is, the combination of gasket sealer and high temp paint along with 2 weeks of drying time have now formed the equivalent of cement.  That head is stuck tighter than (insert dirty comment here).  I took all of the nuts and bolts out but I can't get the damn thing to budge off the cylinders.  I'm afraid to pry too much because I don't want to end up busting fins.  That's why I replaced the head to begin with, well that and a leaky head gasket.  So I'm open to suggestions on how to get this thing free, preferably saving the new head gasket if possible.  Someone else, I'm sure, has made the same dumbass mistake and had to remove a fresh head.  How did you do it?

Online MRieck

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Re: Head removal 2 weeks after a fresh install - need help
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2008, 07:28:37 PM »
 There are small small "blocks" or bosses under the opening of the intake tracts. If you insert a large flat screwdriver or small pry bar all the until it hits the head/cylinder junction and carefully pry UP against those blocks you will be able to seperate them. The tip of the prying object has to butt against the engine
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Offline FunJimmy

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Re: Head removal 2 weeks after a fresh install - need help
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2008, 07:39:26 PM »
At this point you have removed the cam so all valves are closed.
I'd try compressed air through the plug holes.
Hopefully you have a compression tester that you can tread into the plug holes and connect to a compressor.

Just a thought
FJ
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