Author Topic: Symptoms of a bad coil?  (Read 4829 times)

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Offline Artfrombama

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Symptoms of a bad coil?
« on: August 08, 2008, 04:15:09 PM »
Starts great, but as the motor gets to temp drops #2-#4 cylinders out. How much resistance (ohms)?
                               Thanks! ;D
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Offline scunny

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2008, 04:17:57 PM »
1 and 4, 2 and 3 are seperate coils points xcetera so doubt bad coils
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Offline Sporkfly

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2008, 05:02:06 PM »
A little more info about the bike might be helpful.

I'd say go ahead and do a compression test and go from there. If your compression varies more than 10% across any of the cylinders then you've likely found your problem.

Edit: When you say #2-#4 do you mean #2 and #4 or #2 through #4?  :P I doubt you meant through, but I had to ask.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2008, 05:05:54 PM by Sporkfly »
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Offline Artfrombama

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2008, 08:53:13 PM »
A little more info about the bike might be helpful.

I'd say go ahead and do a compression test and go from there. If your compression varies more than 10% across any of the cylinders then you've likely found your problem.

Edit: When you say #2-#4 do you mean #2 and #4 or #2 through #4?  :P I doubt you meant through, but I had to ask.
L to R 1, 2, 3, 4?
The coil the points (blue wire) aft of the crankshaft fire.

Sorry for being a dork, manual is on the way.
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Offline Sporkfly

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2008, 10:06:31 PM »
L to R 1, 2, 3, 4?
The coil the points (blue wire) aft of the crankshaft fire.

Sorry for being a dork, manual is on the way.

Exhaust

1 2 3 4

Intake

There's your cylinder order. As stated, the coils fire #1 and #4 from one coil and #2 and #3 from the other coil. So, you shouldn't be looking at your ignition for the symptoms you describe, basically. Checking your compression will be a good place to start, test the compression when the engine is warm. If you get bad compression on #2 and #4 (120 isn't 'good' as some people would like to think, above 140 would be more acceptable) squirt a small amount of oil into the cylinder and test again. If your reading goes up after that then you've got a problem with your rings, but if you still get a low reading you'll be looking at valves.

When you say it starts and idles fine until it's to temperature does it lose idle when you take the choke off?

EDIT: If you have a compression tester, but don't have that 12mm adapter or the 'universal' rubber push in type (these are kind of a hassle) here's what I did:
1) Take an old spark plug.
2) Knock off the ceramic and get the center cleared out (boy was that a pain!)
3) Find a suitable size nut and tap it to 14mmx1.25 (assuming that's the standard adapter on your compression tester) as you won't find a nut in that size otherwise.
4) Braze it to the top of the hollowed out spark plug.
5) Put it to work! It's a clever work around to paying another $15 to get the 'proper' adapter from Snap-On or similar.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2008, 10:13:44 PM by Sporkfly »
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1979 GL1000 - Current project, winter '09-'10
1979 CX500
1976 Suzuki GT500 Titan

martino1972

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2008, 10:39:23 PM »
how about to tight of a valve clearance.????  when cold just enough clearance to keep compression,but when engine warms up and valve stems expand from heat clearance gets to small,and valves slighty stay open thus disabling the compression...
just a thought.....

Offline Jonesy

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2008, 04:50:07 AM »
1) Take an old spark plug.
2) Knock off the ceramic and get the center cleared out (boy was that a pain!)
3) Find a suitable size nut and tap it to 14mmx1.25 (assuming that's the standard adapter on your compression tester) as you won't find a nut in that size otherwise.
4) Braze it to the top of the hollowed out spark plug.
5) Put it to work! It's a clever work around to paying another $15 to get the 'proper' adapter from Snap-On or similar.

If you have access to a metal lathe, next time chuck the sparkplug body in the lathe and turn off the crimped portion around the porcelain insulator (rounded part just above the hex portion). The insulator will fall right out.
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Offline eurban

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2008, 05:20:11 AM »
(120 isn't 'good' as some people would like to think, above 140 would be more acceptable)

An actual reading of 120 isn't good.  However you have to be careful that the gauge you are using is accurate with a good seal.  If you add a length of hose and adapter fittings you significantly change the volume that the gauge is calibrated for.  Lower than actual readings are the result.  Consistent but low readings can happen on a good engine when using either bad technique (carb slides closed for instance) or a misreading gauge.

Offline Artfrombama

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2008, 07:52:04 AM »
how about to tight of a valve clearance.????  when cold just enough clearance to keep compression,but when engine warms up and valve stems expand from heat clearance gets to small,and valves slighty stay open thus disabling the compression...
just a thought.....
Good thought. I've had too tight valve lash do the same thing on singles.

Valves were set on .003I, .004E before I swung the motor back in the frame.
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Offline bryanj

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2008, 08:44:56 AM »
Question hase already been asked WHAT BIKE
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Offline Artfrombama

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2008, 09:19:46 AM »
Question hase already been asked WHAT BIKE
Sorry, CB750K2

Update;
Fouled plugs.
Everything OK.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2008, 12:47:10 PM by Artfrombama »
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Offline tonycb650

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Re: Symptoms of a bad coil?
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2008, 09:43:54 AM »
thats good news. and dont be sorry, be happy. we only wish our problems could turn out to be that simple to fix.
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