Topic: 2nd testdrive, bike stalls after 15 minutes..

[ieism]

  ;

Not a very smart bug then.......

I have fuel from all the floatbowls. even with the petcock turned off (about as much as a floarbowl can hold). The petcock and fuelline are new, and not clogged either.

My gutfeeling sais it's not getting enough fuel, but my gutfeeling is mostly wrong when it comes to motorcycles
The lean plug also confirms this.
I'll be looking at the ignition and coils this week, and when I get new carbboots i'll take off the carbs again to inspect slowjets and floatneedle.

I wish the weather was a bit better so I could do some more testrides.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Do you have both electric start and kick start?

Next time it quits immediately use your kick starter. See how tight the engine feels compared to when it's cold. I'm looking for an overheating condition considering you say the plugs look lean when this happens. If so try bigger jets.

[ieism]

I can crank it with the kickstart easily after it stalls. The bike feels hot, but not ridiculous. My 550F is often much hotter in the summer.
I have new stailess steel pipes. I'm not sure if SS turns blue when hot, but the headers are more of a golden colour when it's hot. And it doesn't "tick" when cooling down. 

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Has anyone mentioned to check the fuse block? I had a similar situation on my 750 and found the fuse block was getting hot enough to melt which was allowing the posts to move slightly. Take a look at the front and back sides.

[HondaMan]

It just stops suddenly, not like it's running out of gas.

And when it stops suddenly... is the rest of the electricity still there?
 
The reason I ask. Mine will stop when I ride to long in the city, like if the battery shuts off to protect itself.

What kind of battery is that? 

My brother's 500 used to stop suddenly in summer city traffic if he was using 10w40 oil and it was past the oil change time (>1000 miles). He'd switch back to 20w40 or 20w50 and the problem would go away. I haven't seen 20w40 in a long time, though: it used to be preferred by town riders in the early 1970s because it didn't have as much 'drag' as 20w50 in cooler weather riding. Of course, we're talking about 1/2 HP or so, here... 

[Deltarider]

What kind of battery is that?

 
Dunno. Has happened 4 or 5 times. Like if the 'system' shut itself off. When kicked the engine immediately came to life again. Don't ask me: what kind of system is that? Dunno, never gave it much thought.

[HondaMan]

What kind of battery is that?

 
Dunno. Has happened 4 or 5 times. Like if the 'system' shut itself off. When kicked the engine immediately came to life again. Don't ask me: what kind of system is that? Dunno, never gave it much thought.

Hmm...that sounds like a loose or corroded connection in the BLACK wire circuit, like in the headlight, or a bad (wearing out) keyswitch.

Another long shot: the fuseholder might be getting hot, too. They lose their spring tension after lots of years and don't grip the fuse tightly. This makes them heat up until the contacts get a bit loose, then reducing the current slightly (when the engine dies) lets it cool off just enough to make it grip lightly again, and it turns back on. I had this happen to me, but on a different bike. Replacing the fuseholder solved it completely.

I'd hate to see it do this to you as you turned left in front of someone... 

[ieism]

I somehow solved the problem, but changed so many things that I can't be sure what the problem was.

Cleaned carb slowjets again.

Checked valves, were ok.

retightened boots.

Took the electronic ignition off and checked wiring. The timing plate was a little greasy, the PO probably used some type of grease to prevent the srews getting stuck in the engine case. I figured this might prevent the electronic ignition from grounding to the engine, so I sprayed contactcleaner untill it was as clean as posible.
I timed it again with a strobe.

Cleaned all the ignition wires and groundwires.

Adjusted idlescrew, seemed to run better 2 3/4 turns out.

The bike runs better now, especially from 1/8 to 1/2 trottle. WOT is still way off, but i'll fix that after the dynorun.

It still clogs slowjets after an hour or so. I've cleaned the tank twice but there is still some stuff in there (from painting or lining the tank?). The petcock filter doesn't seem to stop it going to the carbs somehow, so I'm thinking of adding an inline fuelfilter.
The only problem is, the fuelline to the carbs is realy short and horizontal, so I'm worried it will upset fuelflow.
Is there a filter that fits directly onto the petcock or carb? What would be a good filter to use?

@Deltarider: You in Amsterdam too? I saw a guy on a real fine black 750 the other day, that wasn't you was it?
Johan @ Fourdeel.com is pretty good with wiring SOHC4's, maybe he can check it out for you. His hourly rates are ok too.

[Deltarider]

Mine is a 500 and it is already hibernating since november 13th.
Personally I don't have good experience with extra inline filters. I don't know what type of petcockfilter you have. The tall nylon one, on top of the petcock, is best and, providing it's undamaged, should do the trick. Check your carbbowls if they contain much dirt. Tunap and Forté have good additives that help clean the fuel system. I can recommend it from experience.
I must pay Fourdeel a visit next season. Haven't been there yet.
I see you live in A'dam. Where are you located?

[ieism]

I live in the centre, on the Amstel. My bike's in the shed at work though.
My bike is a 550 cafe, the tank is not stock so the petcock had to be an early 750 part. It's brandnew though.
I've sealed the tank on the inside, but there is still some stuff in there from sanding/painting it.
I'd rather have a fuelfilter clog than my slowjets. My jets are the press-in type, so i have to take the carbs off to get them out.

[Deltarider]

Since bores in our carbs are so small, it's essential only clean fuel gets to the bowls. Choice number one would be the original nylon filter that protrudes into the tank. With that filter in place there's no need for extra filters. If that one is missing, you're compelled to inline filters. Paper filters are best, you'll find them in any good autostore. An arrow indicates the right orientation. They might be too big though. A motorworkshop (like Mokummotor) might have smaller ones. Even if you have installed them properly, be prepared for trouble. I found them a nuisance, as they always some way or another disturbed fuelflow. When you have good filtering, don't worry to much about tiny particles - I mean real tiny - you'll find later on on the bottom of the floatchambers. Make it a habit to drain your carbbowls say every two months and you'll be fine. Right now it is freezing, but as soon as you start riding I recommend adding some Tunap or Forté. I even consider using a few cc every time I fill up the tank. Gasoline today is not the same as back then. I have the feeling it is less 'lubricous'. A tiny bit of Tunap or Forté might help.
BTW who did the porting?

[ieism]

Some guy near Apeldoorn. He's an older retired guy who does it as a hobby. Rene van Maanen (from  honda4.nl) set it up for me, I never met the guy in person.

I'll give an inline filter a try, they are cheap enough to try.