Topic: Hex Bolt Kit

[Caaveman82]

     I looked through the sight only to find no answers.... alas...

     I'm taking apart my engine and every other bolt is stripped to #$%*e... so I am shopping for replacement hardware and a dude from work put a hex bolt kit on his 71 Triumph. That sounds like a good idea to me though I can't really find anything...

     Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[Findlater]

Welcome to the club, Im pretty sure everyone who takes this engine apart for the first time finds out how just crap those screws are, Im just at work now but I have a website saved at home with bolt kits starting at about $20.00 to around $40.00 for everything. You can also get screws individually on this site aswell. So just bare with me while I waste the rest of the day at work 

[scondon]

      Check the FAQ "where can I buy....." section. A few members sell hex bolt kits.  I bought a couple sets from Jim a few years back and was happy with the quality. Also sellers on Ebay.

[Caaveman82]

Ahh thank you both. Sounds good.

Yeah it is horrible the quality of this hardware, but what ever, no pain no gain right?

[Caaveman82]

On the plus side of things I got new tools out of the deal...

[img width= height=]http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00952166000?qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0[/img]

and

[img width= height=]http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00952154000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0[/img]

I don't know how I lived without these in the past...

[Short Round]

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=551  This is where I got mine from.  Great quality, and comes with directions.  I'm not sure why he doesn't have the entire kit for the F modles, you might have to buy both the K and F to get the complete F Kit.  Must use Anti-sieze.  Hope this helps.................Chris

[goon 1492]

I just bought a set from spillane, search the forums and you will see he has good stuff.
When I goe mine they were all in one bag with a paper describing sizes and where they go to. I haven't been able to install them yet gotta get some antisieze first,also I still haven't found anything yet for the torque values other than reading something about reducing the torque spec by 50% when adding antisieze adn hex bolts. Has anyone heard of that?

[Short Round]

I have never heard of reducing the torque specs and I really cant think of a reason for it but I am interested to hear from someone who has more experience with the hex bolt kits to see what they have to say, though I still cant think of a reason why you would reduce the torque on anything????Chris

[78CB750CAFE]

"wet" (with grease or antiseize) torque values are sometimes dropped 10%, I never heard of going to 50% and I don't think it is a good idea.

If you have a good torque wrench (not the old lever/ pointer type, something that was calibrated) I would go ahead and do the bolts to the specs in the Honda manual, that is what I did...

[Findlater]

http://www.stainlesscycle.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=46_47_49&products_id=457

here is a site to order bolt kits. I haven't put in an order yet or have a set from this site so don't quote me on their quality.

[Sporkfly]

I got a kit from stainlesscycle.com, they seem like good quality and you can get them polished or unpolished. I went with unpolished to get a rough-around-the-edges look. Plus it was a hair cheaper.

[Findlater]

On the plus side of things I got new tools out of the deal...
I don't know how I lived without these in the past...

If those actually worked for you congrats! I went out and got the same things for my stripped nuts, all they did was peel the metal out of the bolt to make them nice and rounded LOL. My bolts were so soft by the time I got to them it was like cutting butter with those bits.

[CU2151]

I too got my kit from Stainless Cycle (on ebay though) for my '75 CB550.  Just got them in today!  It came nicely sorted with labels for what section each bag is for.  After stripping all those damn screws  , it seems like it'll be well worth the investment!

[Gregorymoto]

Do a search on ebay, they are all over.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB750-SOHC-POLISHED-STAINLESS-BOLT-KIT-CHOPPER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem270310454613QQitemZ270310454613QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[goon 1492]

"wet" (with grease or antiseize) torque values are sometimes dropped 10%, I never heard of going to 50% and I don't think it is a good idea.

If you have a good torque wrench (not the old lever/ pointer type, something that was calibrated) I would go ahead and do the bolts to the specs in the Honda manual, that is what I did...

I have both a good in/lbs and ft/lbs torques, I dont' remember right off hand the website that quoted the reduction in torque. I know when I read it I thought  and wanted to ask others. I figured I could go with 85-90 in/lbs and that would be sufficient. I will try to find the link that explained about the torque values dropping with adding antisieze and maybe someone can enlighten us more about it.

[goon 1492]

I found this so far....

Mechanical Properties:
Stainless is not generically a tensile material; no form of standard 18/8 or 18/10/3 stainless alloy possesses the tensility of grade 8.8 steel (the benchmark HT std) beware of any claims to the contrary. Many but not all steel bolts fitted to motorcycles are made from high tensile steel principally because HT steel is cheap and easily available. For the same reason ie cost the factories often use flanged bolts (fastener/washer fused together) ie to save assembly time not having to fiddle with washers and spacers etc.
The fact is that with many applications on a motorcycle - fork castings, disc rotor bolts, engine covers etc the material the steel bolts are threaded into is cast aluminium/magnesium alloy. Al/Mg castings are invariably low density and have little crystalline structure - not a feature of high tensile alloy. If you have worked on a Japanese bike you will know how easily the alloy threads 'pull' - again not really the behaviour of something 'strong' in tensile terms. Stainless might not be as tensile as 8.8 but it is certainly way stronger than those alloy threads - in fact often the shear resistance (resistance to cutting action) of stainless is greater than that of tensile steel and Ti. This issue is also referred to in our Faq section. It should be made clear that if for whatever reason you require high tensile fixings you should use manufacturers original equipment.
Stainless steel requires less stretching to enable it to seat. On the assumption any threads have been cleared and prepared properly you should need no more than 66% of the original tensile steel torque spec when tightening

It was quoted for this UK website I found in the faq's links.

http://www.inoxgrp.co.uk/prodtech.htm

Could someone add to this with their experiences, I read that the threads need to be properly cleaned of old debre