Topic: help setting floatlevel PD46A carbs (550)

[ieism]

I can't figure out how to get the flaotlevel right on my 550. It has the PD46A carbs, and they are not in any of the manuals. Normally you measure the floats when they are just touching the pin of the floatvalve, but these carbs have a differnt floatvalve with a rubber pointy tip. There are no rings or spring between the seat and the valve either. Is there anybody that has done these carbs before that can give me a few tips?

I've set the floats on my other 550 before, and they were easy as you can see when the float starts pushing the pin, with these carbs it's not so easy to see.

[TwoTired]

I don't believe the rubber tipped float valve needles are stock.  The PD46 carbs I've seen all had metal cone tips and the spring plungers pins opposite.

If you wish to use the rubber tipped ones, the float height should still be where the cone tip blocks the fuel flow through the valve.

Cheers,

[ieism]

It seemed odd to me too, as the quality of the valves/cone is not that great either. I've seen pictures off a carbrebuild kit (keyser maybe) that also had the rubber cones. The rubber is pretty soft, and dirt sticks too it easily causing it to stop from closing.I much prefer the springed metal version I have on my 550F. In fact I will try if they fit the PD46 carbs tomorrow and if so, order new ones.

Thanks for pointing out this is not a honda part. I can set the float to where it seats, and the adjust the height but I have a bad feeling that these things will keep giving me trouble. Better fix it now while the carbs are still off the bike.

Thanks again TT

[Deltarider]

Yours could originate from Louis. I've looked them up in their catalogue (p 1035 in the 2008 catalogue), Best-Nr. 10043000. In the picture they seem to have a rubber cone tip. You can check their site http://www.louis.de/_107dbddb0542fe36161ab84b116d800a61/index.php?topic=search&searchterm=10043000&cmd.x=8&cmd.y=7
and click vergrößern.

[ieism]

I've put the rubber tipped ones back in. I put a little oil on the hinge and the needle to make sure it's all working. I also made one of those float measure device thing from some aluminum bar. It makes it a lot easier to see what your doing.

I've set the float at 12mm, that's half a mm higher than stock for my carbs.

Stock my PD46 carbs are set up like this:
42 slowjets
90 mainjets
Floathight 12.5 mm

I'm running K/N pods and a 4into2 pipe with no baffle. The head is also ported.
My settings right now are:
42 slowjet (stock)
105 mainjet
Float 12mm

The needleclip is in stock position too.

I did a short testrun today with the new setting. Idle is good, at about 1/4 trottle there is hesitation. Full trottle is ok, but I don't want to rev it redline now as it's just been rebuild.

I want to put some miles on it now, then recheck the valves and carbsync. Then I'll do a dynorun or a lot of plugchops.

Does this sound logical to you guys? You think I'm still too lean on the mainjet to drive the bike now?

[TwoTired]

Got any spark plug deposits?

With the pods and no baffle ex., I would expect a richer needle clip adjustment to keep temps down.

Cheers,

[ieism]

I took one of the plugs out after a long straight were I drove full trottle a lot of the time, it looked tan but on the light side. Not white though.

The problem is I have to relocate my killswitch to do a proper plugchop.

I was suspecting lean running because of the hesitation/flat feeling between 1/4 and 3/4 trottle. I hate the fact that I have to open the top of the carb (ruining my sync) to get at the needles.
Also i've never done this.

[TwoTired]

I hate the fact that I have to open the top of the carb (ruining my sync) to get at the needles.

Are you saying you don't like to wrench on your bike?

That's what they're for.  Except for the riding thing.

Cheers,