The bike is waay too heavy to do a wheelie. I've only done one on it, and that was unintentional.
As far as damage to the clutch...well when it slips, I'll replace it.
No offense intended, but I doubt it did much to the clutch though.
If the clutch was so weak that it would slip during a half-throttle burnout, then guess what, it would have slipped at half throttle steady-state load on the road at the same rpm. The engine/clutch isn't seeing a difference in rolling resistance/vs. burnout resistance. It just sees resistance. If a stock clutch cant hold the motor down to a stall (provided the traction available is great enough that the tire doesn't spin first) from half throttle in first gear (IE total, or 100% of available torque at that throttle setting), then the clutch is bad in the first place. Anything less than total available torque being seen by the motor means the motor keeps running, the tire keeps turning, which also means that the clutch should not slip at that load and throttle setting, unless it was bad in the first place. It also means that the total amount of torque needed was less than the motor could provide at that throttle setting. Anyways, load doesn't affect clutch life, unless it exceeds the torque capacity of the clutch.
Slipping causes abrasion and glazing of clutch material, and possible warpage. So basically, the damage that can/will be caused, is caused during the time period that you are releasing the clutch against a high torque value equation, IE high power from motor against a static torque factor (the stationary tire and it's potential friction), and this period of potential damage ends generally when the tire starts spinning (unless you have gotten the clutch so hot that it glazes and is allready slipping).
No tears about it, doesn't really matter to me. The parts are 60 dollars, and the time I've got. The bike is a toy/hobby.
Stoppies I'm not even going to attempt. To much weight, too flexy of a frame/tripple tree. Assuming the front brake had enough guts to actually do a stoppy (I'm thinking it would either not lock, or just lock the tire before, not enough modulation there in single piston, solid disk setup).
I think I picked up the screw after the burnout, actually.
Edited to add:
On drag tires, spinning gets the tires hot and increases the traction (friction they can provide). However, drag tires or street tires, what allows you to spin the tire much easier than breaking it loose in a first place, providing you aren't rolling down the road, is this:
The tire gets hot enough to start melting/emulsifying, and while doing that, it produces hot gases. In effect, these hot gasses (and melted rubbber) produce a lubricant, that in turn allows the tire to spin with less torque needed. Hence once the burnout is started, less (usually much less) power/torque is needed to continue the burnout, provided you keep the tire inside of the patch you have just created.
