Topic: cb550 wire harness

[paulages]

two tired, this pretty much a question for you, as you seem to be the resident cb550 expert...

i found a harness listed for a cb550K1-P for $108.89 (seems pretty cheap to me). is that compatible with a '76 CB550F supersport? this is for my total rebuild, so i'm sure i could make any subtle differences work, but i want to make absolutely sure. i looked up the part #s on servicehonda.com, through the microfiche partsfinder (amazing recource!), and the part #s seems to line up, but i don't know the differences between all of the different models. for example what is the "p" designation?

[GeorgeK]

Try calling Western Honda in Scottsdale AZ. 480-994-8400. Tell them the bike year and model and ask them for the price and  honda part number. Then you can tell if the one for $108.00 is the same.  I needed a wiring harness for my 750 K bike and they were the only ones that knew what I needed. Also tell them the price you cazn get one for and ask for matching. Sometime they can accomidate. 

Good luck,

George

[TwoTired]

Jeez, I don't know what the P designation is.  I only know about Ks and Fs.  Maybe BryanJ knows about the suffix.

I could be wrong, but I think the application differences could be disapointing.

Cb550 K1       /             Cb550 F
Headlight on-off switch / no headlight on-off switch
Ignition switch on frame down tube under tank different (smaller) plug connector. /Ignition switch at gauge cluster (large plug connector)
Uses headlight bucket for all upfront interconnections / splits interconnection between headlight bucket and large junction box under left side of tank.

I *think* from mid tank to back of bike is the same wiring for both bikes.

Hard to believe the part numbers are the same for the two models.

Cheers,

[paulages]

okay...differences noted.

however, given that i am building this bike back up from scratch, and have a mish-mash of parts available (bike the frame and most of the intended parts came from is the '76 550F, but have a '74 550--not sure which model--on the way, and i have a '77 cb550K to cannibalize if i want.), should it really matter? i'll most likely not use the entire gauge cluster, though i like the ignition up high. this bike will not be perfectly stock in the end. other than the headlight on/off (which i'd rather have), can you think of anything i won't be able to work around? also, how about that price?

i'm back and forth on whether it's really worth replacing at all, but if you're gonna build back up from scratch, it's hard not to want to do everything as well as possible. that, and i've always heard that these old harnesses can end up building up resistance in bad connections which is hard on the charging system.

[78 k550]

both my manuals dont have any specific diagram for a 550F or 550 K so I would bet there the same. My friend just picked up a 77 750f and was blowing fuses. I had it fixed in about 10 min. the PO had the brown and the black wire on the ignition switch backwards. He is haveing lots of issues with it. I offered him 300 for it and he put it up on graigslist for 1500. He got it for free. While looking through my friends manual it had a different diagram for each model, the 750K is different than the 750F. I can get you a digital pic of the one in my book.

Just found this for you.
For Sale - 1976 Honda 550 Super Sport
624281
Parting out a 1976 Honda 550 Super Sport Orange. Has broken cam chain, everything else in good condition, Austin, TX Respond to this ad 8/21/2005
http://www.mcmart.com/mall/mc_honda_part.htm


Paul

[paulages]

i have an old wiring harness from a K and an F.  the issue, is whether to replace it with a brand new NOS one or not. based on two-tired's comments, i think i can make it work, and i think the peace of mind from having all new connections will be worth it. hey--the things off and sitting in a box already, why not replace it new, right?

[78 k550]

thats the way i would go. nice soft new wires.

Paul

[TwoTired]

okay...differences noted.

however, given that i am building this bike back up from scratch, and have a mish-mash of parts available (bike the frame and most of the intended parts came from is the '76 550F, but have a '74 550--not sure which model--on the way, and i have a '77 cb550K to cannibalize if i want.), should it really matter? i'll most likely not use the entire gauge cluster, though i like the ignition up high. this bike will not be perfectly stock in the end. other than the headlight on/off (which i'd rather have), can you think of anything i won't be able to work around? also, how about that price?

i'm back and forth on whether it's really worth replacing at all, but if you're gonna build back up from scratch, it's hard not to want to do everything as well as possible. that, and i've always heard that these old harnesses can end up building up resistance in bad connections which is hard on the charging system.

You're right about the connectors building up an oxide and adding resistance and power loss for the whole system as it ages.  But, they can be cleaned and treated with an anti oxident.  This restores them to as-new electrical integrity.    Personally, I'd rather do that than pay $100 for a harness that will also oxidize in the future unless you treat every connection to the same dielectric grease.  Besides, the harness is only half the connection.  All the bits that plug into it should be addressed as they have the other half of the connectors.
I suppose if your goal is to make everything look new, a new harness will go toward that goal, though.  Since you are customizing, I really can't tell which is better for you.  But, if you add or subtract wires from either harness, won't the rewrap look like new?  You can buy a lot of electrical tape (in really pretty colors) for $100.

Cheers,

[paulages]

You're right about the connectors building up an oxide and adding resistance and power loss for the whole system as it ages.  But, they can be cleaned and treated with an anti oxident.  This restores them to as-new electrical integrity.    Personally, I'd rather do that than pay $100 for a harness that will also oxidize in the future unless you treat every connection to the same dielectric grease.

good point..i'm sure i could clean up the old one fine and treat all of the connections. i may go that route, but part of the allure of using a new harness is just knowing that everything is wired properly--a "clean slate', if you will.

by the way, i'm not really customizing all that much functionally. i'll use a different seat, probably cut knee inserts into the tank, maybe different style lights, and oh yeah, i cut off the passenger footpeg brackets...but i believe these machines were beautifully designed. i'm just sprucing mine up a bit.

[Master Ted]

okay...differences noted.

however, given that i am building this bike back up from scratch, and have a mish-mash of parts available (bike the frame and most of the intended parts came from is the '76 550F, but have a '74 550--not sure which model--on the way, and i have a '77 cb550K to cannibalize if i want.), should it really matter? i'll most likely not use the entire gauge cluster, though i like the ignition up high. this bike will not be perfectly stock in the end. other than the headlight on/off (which i'd rather have), can you think of anything i won't be able to work around? also, how about that price?

i'm back and forth on whether it's really worth replacing at all, but if you're gonna build back up from scratch, it's hard not to want to do everything as well as possible. that, and i've always heard that these old harnesses can end up building up resistance in bad connections which is hard on the charging system.

You're right about the connectors building up an oxide and adding resistance and power loss for the whole system as it ages.  But, they can be cleaned and treated with an anti oxident.  This restores them to as-new electrical integrity.    Personally, I'd rather do that than pay $100 for a harness that will also oxidize in the future unless you treat every connection to the same dielectric grease.  Besides, the harness is only half the connection.  All the bits that plug into it should be addressed as they have the other half of the connectors.
I suppose if your goal is to make everything look new, a new harness will go toward that goal, though.  Since you are customizing, I really can't tell which is better for you.  But, if you add or subtract wires from either harness, won't the rewrap look like new?  You can buy a lot of electrical tape (in really pretty colors) for $100.

Cheers,

What product/process is used to clean and treat oxidation of electrical connections? 

[bryanj]

550P would probably be a "Police" model and may have totally different wires. The numbers will all be very similar with only the last three numbers varying with model.76F should have the ignition switch up between the clocks , i think, and so will be a completely different item to a 74K where the ignition switch is under the tank. I dont have an F parts book but at a guess the part number would be 32100-390-???

[bryanj]

Having "played" with several web sites www.servicehonda.com list a 32100-390-010 at About $118 BUT BE ADVISED they list everything and it could well be discontinued if you try to order it. NONE of the other GOOD sites (Dave Silver, Western Hills, CMS) show any stock of this number so chances are it dont exist. ALSO do make sure that this is the correct number, all i did was take the "normal" loom number (32100) add in the model code for a 550F (390) and see what came up.

[paulages]

this is the listing:
 Part Number: 32100-374-000
Honda Code: 0362525
   WIRE HARNESS
For Model: CB550K1-P   Price: $76.22   1 available

(the price was $108 yesterday???)

[TwoTired]

I hadn't thought of the police option.  But, it makes perfect sense.  I imagine the police bikes had quite a bit of extra electrical stuff and varied routing, as well.  Just a guess, though. 

IF it is actually available, rather than just listed.  Servicehonda has a "reputation".

Cheers,

[TwoTired]

What product/process is used to clean and treat oxidation of electrical connections? 

The process is separating each connection, mechanically removing the oxidation with an abrasive, and then applying a corrosion inhibitor prior to reconnection.

I use scotchbrite pads on the bullet males or exposed blades/pins.  I made a tool for my drill to clean the bullet sockets. A 1/8 inch metal tubing or rod with a slot in one end about 3/4 long. A small piece of emery cloth fits into the slot and the rod gets chucked into my hand drill.  The emery cloth twirls in the socket, cleaning off the oxidation.
I've been using a spray corrosion remover/inhibitor called DeOxit, which I like.  But, others have used an electrical dielectric grease, which may give more robust protection for the long term. 

Deoxit was probably intended for indoor use applications.  But, I live in a pretty dry climate, apart from a few rainy months, and by bikes are garaged.  Time will tell if my choice was a wise one.  It is much faster to use than the grease, though.

Cheers,

[bryanj]

The 374 middle number WILL NOT fit straight on to a CB550F. It may well fit if you get the rest of the K1 parts like ignition switch; handlebar controls;etc As i remember it the F has all the connectors in a plastic box by the coil pack whilst the K1 has them in the headlamp shell. Honda made a lot of "minor" (and major) mods modle to modle and you really need to make sure you get the right one. Where was the loom you spotted for sale?

[paulages]

IF it is actually available, rather than just listed.  Servicehonda has a "reputation".

this isn't listed on servicehonda. i've just been using the fichefinder as a reference tool.

[GeorgeK]

You could get a spray can of contact clearer from your local electronics store and clean each connection. Find something that quicikly evaporates and does not leave an oil residue  like a tuner cleaner would. Then you can check each wire end  to end with an ohm meter and test for zero ( or close to it)  ohms. If the harness does not have any cracking in any of the wire insulation you should have no problems re using it if it tests OK.

[TwoTired]

You could get a spray can of contact clearer from your local electronics store and clean each connection. Find something that quicikly evaporates and does not leave an oil residue  like a tuner cleaner would.

Sorry, gotta disagree here.  A residue is exactly what you want to prevent further oxidation.  The electrical connections are not gas tight.  As they oxidize/corrode, resistance builds.  Dielectric grease or a cleaner that leaves some kind of coating on the contacts, protect them from further exposure to the atmosphere.  If you want to clean them once a year, then don't use a protectant.

Cheers,

[Master Ted]

OK, two tired... I'll follow thru with suggested technique when weaving headlight bucket together. All in all the loom and connectors are in pretty decent shape as bike appears t/b local to high desert where I live. I've selected the best of the electrical parts from the basket even though some are cb500 (1972) and others are cb550 (1974) as I got a few redundant parts. Mainly, the bike is cb500 (acquired in basket) with a spare 550 motor and sundry odds and ins that came with the deal.

I'm pretty sure the loom and panel I'm using are 550 while handle bar switching is 500... I'm confident I'll get it working OK though.

I've cleaned all the connectors on panel and even replaced (swapped) a connector to put the best of what I have together. my concern is a wee bit of copper oxidation appearing on rectifier and voltage regulator. I'm wandering if perhaps I'd be advised to pull the panel back off and disassemble the components for spray cleaning and a blast of compressed air... your thoughts...

[TwoTired]

I've cleaned all the connectors on panel and even replaced (swapped) a connector to put the best of what I have together. my concern is a wee bit of copper oxidation appearing on rectifier and voltage regulator. I'm wandering if perhaps I'd be advised to pull the panel back off and disassemble the components for spray cleaning and a blast of compressed air... your thoughts...

I assume you are talking about the connectors for these components.  And yes, these contacts should be bright and shiny and protected from atmospheric contaminants, too.

Looks like a pretty clean bike...   Glad I didn't send you pics of my 72.  You'd be cleaning spit off your screen, still.

You going with the 500 motor or the 550?

Cheers,

[Master Ted]

I have the top end of the 500 apart, bagged and tagged... all in all it looks pretty good right down to clutch actuating rod. I'll soon have a look at the 550 motor and pick the best of the two as I'm putting this bike together purely as a daily driver.

[TwoTired]

When you put a cb550 motor in a CB500 frame, you need to add a clutch cable perch on the right side of the frame (normally welded).

Ready to repaint?

[Master Ted]

I've had the tank prepped and primed at body shop but plan to shoot paint meself... thinking of something in safety yellow yet following design of stock scheme - very inconclusive until I photochop the bike with a few ideas. I also need to roust up a side cover but that can wait. Right now it's electrics, motor, acquiring an air box assembly and tires at the top of my list.

I'm REAL unsure of these non stock handle bars but will wait until I get things sorted and tested b/4 I consider a change to a low rise bar or whatever.

Looks like you have a heck of a collection of SOHC4s.



 

[Master Ted]

When you put a cb550 motor in a CB500 frame, you need to add a clutch cable perch on the right side of the frame (normally welded).

Is not this bracket the perch?