Author Topic: Fiberglassing a seat (Read 5079 times)

Johnny5 · « **on:** February 26, 2009, 03:12:46 PM »

Didnt know where to post this but Im getting ready to fiberglass my seat, but dont know how much to buy. Im doing the standard seat size with a small bubble for a CB750.

I found the fiberglass in 32oz and 1 gallon containers. Is the 32oz enough? Or will I need the gallon?

Thanks,

DarkRider · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2009, 07:16:37 PM »

Probably better off buying the Gallon. Better to have too much and not need it rather then have too little..

kerryb · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2009, 07:35:37 PM »

I too am getting ready to make a fiberglass seat. I plan to build it out of foam to form the 'glass on, but haven't decided on a method to attach it to the frame rails. One plan calls for hinging it to the rear turn signal bolts with a latch just behind the gas tank. Another plan calls for spring clips to snap it on. Any other suggestions that have worked well for others? I have removed the stock hinges and latch to facilitate a narrow seat. Thickness of the foam will be near stock for comfort on the long haul to the donut shop.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:20:47 PM »

Go with the 32oz size.

You will probably work with small 6oz batches at a time.
Although you may choose to continue with a couple of 6oz batches you will want to stop and let things setup before adding additional layers. Depending on the cloth or glass mat you are using, you will need three or more layers to accomplish satisfactory results. More resin and cloth can be added as needed so you will have plenty of time to restock if needed.

devbear12 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:44:22 PM »

I seen a really good idea not yet tried by me but to use as a form for fiberglass. You will still have to have what you want your seat to look like, exact size and all. Then take a piece of lexan plastic heat it up until its plyable? i have no idea what temp just keep an eye on it, lay it over your form and whalaa you have an outside form of your desired bike seat. Then all you have to do is lay fiberglass down on the inside of the formed lexan and your done. I have owrked with lexan before and i dont think the fiberglass will stick to it (try on a small piece first) You may want to wd-40 the inside first? Hope i was detailed and explained what i was talking about.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:19:31 AM »

Quote from: devbear12 on February 26, 2009, 08:44:22 PM

I seen a really good idea not yet tried by me but to use as a form for fiberglass. You will still have to have what you want your seat to look like, exact size and all. Then take a piece of lexan plastic heat it up until its plyable? i have no idea what temp just keep an eye on it, lay it over your form and whalaa you have an outside form of your desired bike seat. Then all you have to do is lay fiberglass down on the inside of the formed lexan and your done. I have owrked with lexan before and i dont think the fiberglass will stick to it (try on a small piece first) You may want to wd-40 the inside first? Hope i was detailed and explained what i was talking about.

That's a pretty cool idea. Where can I find the lexan?

FunJimmy · « **Reply #6 on:** February 27, 2009, 08:39:14 AM »

Quote from: devbear12 on February 26, 2009, 08:44:22 PM

You may want to wd-40 the inside first?

You're not cooking with Pam. There is a process for ensuring that fiberglass doesn't stick to your mold.
First you start with a partall wax and then apply PVA mold release to the mold. Your fliberglass seat will pop out perfectly without possable chemical contamination from WD40 or what ever other crazy idea you come up with.

Google - Making fiberglass molds, or working with fiberglass. There is plenty of info on the topic.

FJ

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:56:46 PM »

Quote from: kerryb on February 26, 2009, 07:35:37 PM

I too am getting ready to make a fiberglass seat. I plan to build it out of foam to form the 'glass on, but haven't decided on a method to attach it to the frame rails. One plan calls for hinging it to the rear turn signal bolts with a latch just behind the gas tank. Another plan calls for spring clips to snap it on. Any other suggestions that have worked well for others? I have removed the stock hinges and latch to facilitate a narrow seat. Thickness of the foam will be near stock for comfort on the long haul to the donut shop.

i'm going to use dzus fasteners to fasten the one i'm making onto my titan. http://www.racecraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=200110

devbear12 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2009, 07:51:54 PM »

Look Jimmy Funny or Funny Jimmy are people mean to you. If you didnt realize it i started the P with (i have not yet tried this), so knocking a perfectly good idea is a bit of a waste of breathe. As for the wax thing, i think there would be no need to spend five hours sanding and waxing an old school mold if all you have to do is (Cook) some lexan and lay it over your model. Also what are the chemical properties of wd-40 and fiberglass that will cause an explosion. Hmmm do they have that on google too. Anyways just trying to say that add-on to an idea but dont knock it cause you think its dumb.

P.S. Funny Jimmy is probably right (extract wd-40; insert wax and try again)

You can get sheets of various thickness lexan at any plastic supplier, surf the web?

super pasty white guy · « **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:06:51 PM »

if you're looking at doing the lexan bit, check out home vacuforming.

http://www.tk560.com/vactable4.html

jamesb · « **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:38:42 PM »

here is how i'm goig to do mine these are the seats i'm getting ready to make and sell as soon as my mold dries to room temp first i made a wood box basicly the same shape as the seat. cut out bottom so i can see the inside of my seat (underneath) used modeling clay to seal around the seat turned it over covered seat with vasoline mixed plaster, poured in box let it set for one day popped out seat and i have a seat mold that will make about 100 seats hopefully here are some pics of the basic mold if you are interested in this method i can send you a more detailed step by step

FunJimmy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 03, 2009, 05:56:39 AM »

Quote from: devbear12 on March 02, 2009, 07:51:54 PM

Look Jimmy Funny or Funny Jimmy are people mean to you. If you didnt realize it i started the P with (i have not yet tried this), so knocking a perfectly good idea is a bit of a waste of breathe. As for the wax thing, i think there would be no need to spend five hours sanding and waxing an old school mold if all you have to do is (Cook) some lexan and lay it over your model. Also what are the chemical properties of wd-40 and fiberglass that will cause an explosion. Hmmm do they have that on google too. Anyways just trying to say that add-on to an idea but dont knock it cause you think its dumb.

P.S. Funny Jimmy is probably right (extract wd-40; insert wax and try again)

You can get sheets of various thickness lexan at any plastic supplier, surf the web?

I have no problem with the suggestion to try Lexan. It sounds like a real cleaver idea, and it's that creativeness that brings new ideas to the group. My criticism was directed at the suggestion to use WD-40 as a release agent.

FJ

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #12 on:** March 03, 2009, 07:00:52 AM »

you might also try non-stick cooking spray as a release agent. dont remember where i read that it was used but i DO remember reading that someplace

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #13 on:** March 03, 2009, 02:57:25 PM »

Quote

Look Jimmy Funny or Funny Jimmy are people mean to you. If you didnt realize it i started the P with (i have not yet tried this), so knocking a perfectly good idea is a bit of a waste of breathe. As for the wax thing, i think there would be no need to spend five hours sanding and waxing an old school mold if all you have to do is (Cook) some lexan and lay it over your model. Also what are the chemical properties of wd-40 and fiberglass that will cause an explosion. Hmmm do they have that on google too. Anyways just trying to say that add-on to an idea but dont knock it cause you think its dumb.

Maybe you should go back and read FunJimmy's post again because he is right. "Waxing an old school mold" does not take hours actually it should only take a couple of minutes, and once again you should not use WD40 as a release agent it will possibly react with the fibreglass resin and pool up at the bottom of the mold creating imperfections which would need Bondo or refinishing. Why would you sand a mold? The wax stops any bonding of the glass to the mold so you only have to wash the mold a wax it to use it again. There is plenty of info on the net on this subject.

Mick

FunJimmy · « **Reply #14 on:** March 03, 2009, 04:12:47 PM »

Quote from: retro rocket on March 03, 2009, 02:57:25 PM

Maybe you should go back and read FunJimmy's post again because he is right.

Thanks Mick

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #15 on:** March 03, 2009, 04:30:57 PM »

No worries Jim, i have worked on fibreglass boats on and off for a long time, actually i am replacing the floor in a boat right now, and have made raceglass fairings for a mate as well, it is not rocket science and the right tools make it a relatively easy thing to do.

Mick

billybobobrain · « **Reply #16 on:** March 03, 2009, 05:06:07 PM »

If I had a choice between an "old school mold" and a brand spanking new one. I would pick the old one, having worked in a fiberglass shop for a while, I learned that you have to "break in the mold" before you get the parts to release right. This involves making several pieces some my be sacrificial as they might stick to the point that you have to break them to get them out. Waxing a mold as small as that seat? You could get e few coats in a few minutes.

beta1042 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 05, 2009, 08:52:47 PM »

I've made moulds by using the blue foam from Lowes or Home Depot. Just make sure to use a latex paint over the foam as the aerosol paints typically just eat away at the foam. This works well for one off parts. I made my rear fairing this way. Bad thing was that I did a male mould and so most of the body work was on the fairing rather than the tool since the untooled side was on the outside. I work in a composite shop and we use wax on our tool masters all the time. Too much wax leaves an imprint on the part when you are done, so the trick is to apply the wax in a vertical direction and let it off gas for about 15 minutes. Apply a second coat in the horizontal direction. This helps ensure you get good coverage over the tool. Let it off gas and dry. Go back with a tee shirt and lightly wipe off excess. Make sure you don't do too much and buff the wax off. If you are ever worried that you haven't released it well, take some water and drip it onto your tool. You should see the water bead up well. If it doesn't, you haven't gotten the surface released well enough. Also, remember to put a slight draft on your tool. Parts won't come out too well if you have acute angles or 90 degree angles.

As for mounting the fairing: I took square tubing and creased one side face of the tube with a punch and hammer. This created a V which fit over the frame tubing. I made sure the 4 square tube pieces where planar on the top. Welded the tubes to the frame. Drilled a hole in the fairing such that they were centered over the tubing. Cardboard template helps. Match drill or transfer the holes from the fairing to the 4 tubes welded to the frame. Once you have the holes in the tubes, I attached nutplates inside the tubing. My seat is just velcro'd to the fairing. 4 screws hold the fairing on.

Oh, I almost forgot, I managed to trim the plastic inner rear fender to fit up against the backside of the fairing. Used a silver sharpie and transferred the curve in the fender to the inside of the fairing. Trimmed out the back of the fairing to match the curve.

papp101 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2009, 06:25:20 PM »

Enjoy!

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-make-a-fiberglass-mold-259755/

themotoworks · « **Reply #19 on:** May 05, 2009, 07:49:27 PM »

mold release: freekote 770nc

one stop shop, I mold release my molds once, the day I remove the plug

actually, I still have about 8 cans of it that aren't going anywhere soon if anyone wants to buy some

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #20 on:** May 05, 2009, 09:12:34 PM »

Another trick to release if the wax hasn't done the job is to glass a hose fitting or air fitting into the mold, then use air or water, depending on which one you use, to help release the finished product.

Mick

Hinz · « **Reply #21 on:** May 07, 2009, 06:12:03 PM »

Quote from: jamesb on March 02, 2009, 08:38:42 PM

here is how i'm goig to do mine these are the seats i'm getting ready to make and sell as soon as my mold dries to room temp first i made a wood box basicly the same shape as the seat. cut out bottom so i can see the inside of my seat (underneath) used modeling clay to seal around the seat turned it over covered seat with vasoline mixed plaster, poured in box let it set for one day popped out seat and i have a seat mold that will make about 100 seats hopefully here are some pics of the basic mold if you are interested in this method i can send you a more detailed step by step

you missed a few of these ...,.,.,..,.,.,,.,,,.,.,.,

Hinz · « **Reply #22 on:** May 07, 2009, 06:17:37 PM »

Quote from: beta1042 on March 05, 2009, 08:52:47 PM

...Also, remember to put a slight draft on your tool...

heheheheh

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Author Topic: Fiberglassing a seat (Read 5079 times)

devbear12

fuzzybutt

devbear12

fuzzybutt

billybobobrain