Author Topic: Rear bearing retainer removal...ya another one (Read 2870 times)

Gorms · « **on:** June 04, 2009, 07:07:28 PM »

I've done the search and seen all the homemade tools. Mine wont budge one bit. I know its reverse threaded too. Only thing I am not sure is if my stakes have already been drilled out. Unless the factory stakes are 2mm in diameter and about 1 or 2 mm deep, mine have already been drilled. I made my own tool from a 2 ft 2x4 with 4 thick bolts protruding from the bottom to fit in the retainer holes. With me turning the retainer clockwise and someone else holding/spinning the wheel counterclockewise, the bolts bent. And these were thick bolts sticking out only a centimeter or so. Its sitting right now with penetrating oil on it. I really dont know what to do, this thing is on there GOOD. Any genius ideas?

DaytonGuy · « **Reply #1 on:** June 04, 2009, 07:51:06 PM »

You may need to drill the punch marks a little bigger or a little deeper. I don't have it in front of me but my clymer manual said to use a 3/8 or 1/4 (can't remember which) drill bit. I had allready drilled them out with a smaller bit and it was not budging. I thought 3/8 or 1/4 sounded HUGE, but went for it anyway. Damn thing almost spun right off by hand.

Penetrating oil and some heat from a torch might work too.

Kevin D · « **Reply #2 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:18:59 PM »

Quote

I know its reverse threaded too.

Whats your clue?

Gorms · « **Reply #3 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:19:51 PM »

OK I might try to drill them a little bigger. I put a little heat from a torch on there but heating the retainer seems like it would make it harder to remove, being that it is the part that is expanding. I cant really get heat at an appropriate spot on the hub itself. Heating the side would require the heat to pass through 3/4 an inch of metal before it gets the the threads. Worth another shot though. Hopefuly the oil I have penetrating now and a little drilling will do the trick. My hands are cramping as I type this from the intense torquing I was doing on it.

Gorms · « **Reply #4 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:20:17 PM »

Quote from: Kevin D on June 04, 2009, 08:18:59 PM

Quote
I know its reverse threaded too.
Whats your clue?

Two manuals and many threads from this forum confirm it.

Kevin D · « **Reply #5 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:36:54 PM »

Mine was a bugger coming out but after got it out I cleaned up the threads a little bit and then was able to turn it in by hand nice and smooth all the way except the last turn or so by wrench to its original position. If I did it again I'd make the tool a little longer, maybe 24 or 30 inches instead of 16. I had to have somebody stand on the wheel as well.

Mine was NOT reverse threaded.

Kevin D · « **Reply #6 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:59:20 PM »

Quote

Two manuals and many threads from this forum confirm it.

Yes, I see that note in the 550 manual but its not there in the 750 manual. And I'm thinking, you have a 550?

Gorms · « **Reply #7 on:** June 04, 2009, 09:11:54 PM »

Yes, sorry I forgot to mention that. Its a '77 550K.

I saw some tools similar to yours. Thats why I'm sprised my 24" tool with 4 large bolts did not do the trick when shorter, 2 nail/bolt tools worked for everyone else.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2009, 12:07:11 PM »

Quote from: gorms on June 04, 2009, 08:19:51 PM

OK I might try to drill them a little bigger. I put a little heat from a torch on there but heating the retainer seems like it would make it harder to remove, being that it is the part that is expanding. I cant really get heat at an appropriate spot on the hub itself. Heating the side would require the heat to pass through 3/4 an inch of metal before it gets the the threads. Worth another shot though. Hopefuly the oil I have penetrating now and a little drilling will do the trick. My hands are cramping as I type this from the intense torquing I was doing on it.

Don't you hate it when you get hand cramps from torquing your tool too hard?

Seriously though, maybe some electronic component cooler would shrink the retainer a bit for you?

mystic_1

Gorms · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2009, 01:03:54 PM »

Ended up taking it to a shop and they got it out with heat and banging. Guess I didint heat or bang it enough. I now see that the staked deformed the threads WAY more than I expected and thats why it wouldnt budge. Three rows of threads were almost destroyed by the stakes. Maybe the previous owner did that.

Anyway, searched again and cant find a straight answer on how to get the bearings out for a 550. Which side should I drive the bearing from to get the opposite one out. I bought a foot of 1.5 inch pipe that fits the outer race of the smaller bearing. However I see some mention that the other one is the one that I should be banging on. So which is it...hit the drive bearing to get the brake bearing out, or hit the brake bearing to get the drive bearing out? Neither manual I have covers bearing removal. Thanks!

super pasty white guy · « **Reply #10 on:** June 05, 2009, 01:17:10 PM »

you drive the bearings out by using a thin drift going through the axle hole. That 1.5 pipe will be useful for driving the bearing in, but not out.

spwg

MCRider · « **Reply #11 on:** June 05, 2009, 01:19:27 PM »

Quote from: super pasty white guy on June 05, 2009, 01:17:10 PM

you drive the bearings out by using a thin drift going through the axle hole. That 1.5 pipe will be useful for driving the bearing in, but not out.

spwg

Right. banging on one bearing will not drive the other out. Gotta go thru the axle hole with a drift, long punch type thingie.

DaytonGuy · « **Reply #12 on:** June 05, 2009, 01:31:22 PM »

There is a spacer in there that you have to slide over. I bought a then steel rod from Ace and cut it down to about 12 inches or so. If you put that rod in there and get it to the other end of the space then you should be able to pull against the side of the top bearing, applying leverage to the spacer and slide in out of the way....a little. You don't get much room until you get the bearing to move and then things loosen up a little. If it's like mine, you will have to pull pretty hard but you should feel it slide over. Then get your steel rod on the exposed lip of the bearing and beat on it with a nice big hammer. It might take a while to crack loose but once it does you should switch sides and kinda walk it out. The other one is a piece of cake because the spacer will come out of the hub and you'll have unobstructed access to the other bearing.

BTW...I have the same bike and just did this for the first time last fall. Also, you should have drilled bigger and deeper, you could have saved those threads.

Quote

Don't you hate it when you get hand cramps from torquing your tool too hard?

Either from torquing my tool or pulling my rod for leverage.......both are kinda fun in a lonely kinda way.....

Or maybe drilling deeper and longer is more fun in a not-so-lonely kinda way.....

Gorms · « **Reply #13 on:** June 05, 2009, 02:05:51 PM »

Does this method also apply to the rear bearing because thats what Im asking about. I didnt notice the shaft being able to slide over in the rear. I see the front will do this but not the back. Probably need a rod like you say for the front because a flat head screw driver cant grip the lip enough.

Oh and I just got my front bearing retainer out and it was quite possibly the hardest thing I have ever done. The threads on the retainer are pretty much destroyed. Luckily the hub threads dont look too bad. This thing didint thread out, it pretty much tore out slowly through the retainer threads. Used lots of heat and penetrating oil.

Im beginning to think that I have the most seized set of bearings and retainers of anyone on this board. Maybe not but this is 100 times more frustrating than I anticiplated.

I need a beer.

DaytonGuy · « **Reply #14 on:** June 05, 2009, 02:38:14 PM »

If I remember right you have to use quite a bit of force to move the rear spacer over. There are small tabs on the retainer that actually bend a littel to let it slide out of the way.

On the front bearings you can lay the hub retainer side down and use a large socket on top of the bearing facing up and pound it toward the center until the bearing on the other side falls out. Go slow toward the end because you can push the top bearing all the way into the center of the hub if you are not carfull....this would be bad.

Others feel free to correct me since I'm really new to this stuff to begin with.

Gorms · « **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2009, 03:27:03 PM »

Just got the front bearings out with the help of a steel rod that I cut down into a drift. I was able to knock them out by moving the spacer over. The rear I am still working on. I cant get that spacer out of the way. I am prying with the steel rod but its not moving. I remember reading about having to bend the tabs. Any ideas on how to apply enough lateral force to get the sapcer to move over and the tabs to bend?

My only worry at this point is if the front hub threads are OK. It obvious I am gonna need a new front bearing retainer. Hopefully that will go in easy enough and fix any hub threads with its own. Does any one esle think these retainers are a design flaw? Why couldnt they just drop it an and be secure it with flush screws around the top flange, bolting it to the hub?

mystic_1 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2009, 04:19:51 PM »

Bend the end of your drift just a wee bit, and position the end such that it's in the middle of the spacer. This way the force is applied in a straighter line, in the center of the spacer, so it doesn't twist as you apply force. That may move it.

You should also hose the whole area down on both sides with penetrating oil if there's any chance there could be some corrosion holding things together.

No need to bend the tabs.

mystic_1

Gorms · « **Reply #17 on:** June 05, 2009, 04:58:00 PM »

GOT IT!

I took my skirt off and put some real mans force on the pry bar. The spacer jumped aside and I was able to bang both bearings out. I have stainless spokes on the way from Buchanan's and and am dropping my rims off at the powdercoaters early next week for some black powder. This weekend's agenda is cleaning all the hub parts, front and rear, and get them polished. Also gonna order some new bearings and o-rings for the hubs.

Now I hope my retainer threads are ok...

Did I mention this is going to be a sweet cafe racer? I have a thread going in the projects area but it doesnt get much attention because I am not very far in the process. This is a much better place to get questions answered quickly. You guys really are the best. Thanks so much!

Brian

DaytonGuy · « **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2009, 05:36:23 PM »

This was the first real disassembly I did on my bike once it was torn apart and it felt good knowing I could do it myself. I was a little hesitant at first but then I just started going at it. I'm past the point of no return now since the bike is in about 20 1 gallon Ziploc bags and the rest of it fills two shelving units I have.

I've started painting the rims and hubs and will update my project thread with pics as soon as I get those relaced. They look pretty good so far...IMO.

Good job, keep going!

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Author Topic: Rear bearing retainer removal...ya another one (Read 2870 times)