Topic: Cranky after Rebuild - UPDATE NEED HELP!

[OldSchool_IsCool]

A working advancer will allow the F-mark to align with the pointer at a 1k idle.  at 2500 and above, the pointer should align with the two "advance" marks.

First, make sure you do your dynamic timing at or near 1k.  When that is set, blip the throttle up to 3k and see if the pointer moves up to the advanced marks.

[fishhead]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=52293.msg558911#msg558911

 The link has the 2 carb kits for the early Keihins.
    They may look identical (other than the filter on the float needle), but the jet needles are also different in the 2 kits. Did you compare the new jet needles to the old when replacing them?

[SOHC4ever]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=52293.msg558911#msg558911

 The link has the 2 carb kits for the early Keihins.
    They may look identical (other than the filter on the float needle), but the jet needles are also different in the 2 kits. Did you compare the new jet needles to the old when replacing them?

I did compare them and do look identical EXCEPT for the fact that the spring-loaded tab in the bottom of the float needles didn't spring out quite as long as the float needles that were already in the carbs on the bike (which I ended up using). It looked to me like they had been gummed up/worn out and were hooped... they didn't have much "spring" to them. Maybe they're designed that way?

My landlord just called to tell me that my bike is leaking gas all over the parking garage, so I suspect that the float valve isn't closing on 1 or more of them.

[SOHC4ever]

There are some electronic ignitions that do away with the advancer. I'm not sure, would like to hear what people are doing about them. Just living with it?

Thanks, MC. Does this mean that I can just leave the advancer and springs as they are if I elect to go with the famous Hondaman Ignition?

[fishhead]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=52293.msg558911#msg558911

 The link has the 2 carb kits for the early Keihins.
    They may look identical (other than the filter on the float needle), but the jet needles are also different in the 2 kits. Did you compare the new jet needles to the old when replacing them?

I did compare them and do look identical EXCEPT for the fact that the spring-loaded tab in the bottom of the float needles didn't spring out quite as long as the float needles that were already in the carbs on the bike (which I ended up using). It looked to me like they had been gummed up/worn out and were hooped... they didn't have much "spring" to them. Maybe they're designed that way?

 The Jet needle, not the float needle. Its the long "needle" that is in the center of your slides.

[SOHC4ever]

The Jet needle, not the float needle. Its the long "needle" that is in the center of your slides.

Oh, My.

Those I did NOT compare. Is there enough of a difference to make a difference? You're making me nervous.

[fishhead]

Both jet needles are the same length. The later set (with the filter on the float valve) measures 1.5mm at where the "point" starts on the very bottom of the taper. The early set measures 1.5mm about 6 mm from where the "point" starts.

 The needles have different tapers on them. They also have different stamped numbers on them (Keyster) early = D17 and late = D54.

 Make sure the later needles arent holding up the slides (Jet needles binding in the emulsion tubes).