Topic: 1974 CB550 restoration -- IT LIVESSSSSS!!!

[Chippy569]

My parts from HDL arrived today; one oil pan gasket and one air cleaner filter thingy later and I'm even more ready to rock!

I also called the shop with my carbs and they said they're looking for a new pin since one was damaged. They said it should be done by Thursday. Here's to crossed fingers.

[bikebitzofvt]

I noticed your build - your bike is only a few #'s away from mine!  Same color, too!

The broken part of the cap is stock.  Nearly every early 70's Honda cap used the same part.  The OE part # is 17550-377-315.  If you find a new one it will come with the rivet needed for installation.  Used ones can be found sometimes.

It seems you're missing a lock nut on your front brake stay screw.  Are you adding the yellow stripe to things one they're torqued, like the bleeder and banjo on the caliper?  If so, that's a great way to keep track of what's done...


You're showing some great progress!  Keep up the great work!

[Chippy569]

Lock nut, you say? Hmm, shoot, I'll have to hunt that down.

The yellow paint there isn't from me.



and in great news, today two monumental things happened:
1. THE CARBS CAME BACK!

and,
2. THE CARBS GOT INSTALLED!

F*$! those stupid rubber cement block thingies that connect the carbs to the engine. The two outside ones were soft enough to get the carbs in, but the inside two? no, the ones I can't flipping reach had to give me all the problems, lol. But, one heat gun, a couple hours, two bruised hands, and a brief stint with a gentle rubber mallet later, the carbs were attached to the engine.

Much extra cursing and shouting later, I figured out how to get the other side black box thingy in there. I ended up taking out the battery tray and squeezing it in through the frame that way, which wasn't a walk in the park by any means, but I just could not for the life of me figure out how to get the carbs in otherwise.

Also, while cursing out the rest of the whole carb thing, f#%& those stupid throttle cable linkages. I must have stabbed myself with a flat screwdriver 30 times trying to get the 2nd cable to line up and slide into the slot.

I also put on new fuel lines and got them cut to size. The tank is "on the bike" but I haven't figured out that rubber piece that goes on the seat-end of the tank.

Now that that's all done. Tomorrow is putting in a bit of gas and then hitting the "go" button and seeing if it does anything on its own. It has spark and compression, and clean carbs, and liquid does come out of the tank, so... we'll see.

[Laminar]

I also put on new fuel lines and got them cut to size. The tank is "on the bike" but I haven't figured out that rubber piece that goes on the seat-end of the tank.

The seat end of the tank has a metal tab that sticks out. The rubber piece is rectangular with a slot in the middle. Lift up the top of the rubber piece and slide the end of the tank into it - that holds the tank down, but separates it from any metal on the bike.

[Laminar]

Lock nut, you say? Hmm, shoot, I'll have to hunt that down.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-cb550-1974-front-brake-master-cylinder/o/m9230sch398547

You're looking for items 46 and 49 in that schematic. It's just a 6mm washer and 6mm nut. You can find a 6mm nut with a built-in nylon o-ring (they're often called Ny-lock nuts) for pennies at a hardware store.

[Chippy569]

IT LIVES!!! WITH EVIDENCE!

Sorry about the short shop shirt.


I filled up the gas tank, found a little petcock issue, filled up the tank some more, and hit go.

I noticed a small leak out of the bottom of #2 carb. Also, there's some good exhaust leakage at the headers.

Also also, I'm not convinced 6K RPM is a good idle speed.

[Zaipai]

Nice, Good going.. Now just need to do some thing about the idle speed!.. Enjoy the ride!

[Chippy569]

I got the idle speed down, it doesn't want to go too much lower than 1500-2000 though, and my clymer says 1k is where it's supposed to be.


For kicks, my Dad and I decided we'd put it on the center stand and go through the gears, which worked just fine. Then he took it for a quick jog up and down the street (I live on a very quiet cul-de-sac). That went very well!


The front brake is still a bit soft but I don't know that I can bleed anything more out without some sort of pressure system. Also, the throttle cables are a bit sticky. Does anyone know of a good solution? I believe it's the cables and not the throttle part of the carbs.

[Laminar]

I believe the "push" cable has two nuts where it connects to the carb's throttle cam. If you can loosen the nut closest to the cable, that often helps. Also hitting the part of the actual throttle tube that's inside the right hand control with some aerosol lube or grease prevents it from hanging up. I also hit the handlebar under the throttle tube with a little liquid wrench or grease to make sure it slides well.

Is it hard to open and close, or does it just not snap back on its own very well?

[Chippy569]

it's not hard to open/close, it just doesn't snap back at all.

[Zaipai]

I don't know if this will be the same, but my 550f was sitting for at least 8 years before I got it and it just loosened up over time, the more I rode it the better it got. However it was a pain to deal with until it did loosen up. I bet the liquid wrench would speed that up a lot!

[Chippy569]

How do you get "liquid wrench" into the lines? just spray n' pray?

In other news,

[Laminar]

it's not hard to open/close, it just doesn't snap back at all.

So it's easy to turn the throttle grip clockwise and close the throttle, it just doesn't do it on its own? It almost sounds like your return spring isn't hooked up or is shot. My 550's return spring is STIFF - it snaps back HARD.

[Chippy569]

it's a brand new spring and it's hooked up right. It snaps shut fine with the throttle cables not attached.

[Laminar]

it's a brand new spring and it's hooked up right. It snaps shut fine with the throttle cables not attached.

When the throttle cables are disconnected from the carbs, how easily does the throttle grip spin? How easily can you pull each cable by hand? If everything moves smoothly, it would seem that the problem lies in connecting the cables to the carbs. Oftentimes an over-tight "push" cable can cause the throttle to hang up.