They are stamped "087A".
I *think* the info listed below under "CB550 / CARBURETION: CB-550, K1, 76" is the correct setup info. I'd just like to verify that?
Is there anything weird/strange/different that I should know about these carbs?
I have both 022A and 087A carbs. I've yet to find any difference between them. The different set up number says there is something different, but I can't find it. I suppose it is possible that the set I acquired already had its internals tampered with, making it different from the way it was delivered from Honda. Take notes of settings and internal part numbers when you take yours apart, ok?
Anyway, I don't see why the Honda specs you posted wouldn't be applicable unless you are changing air filter or exhaust parameters as well.
Part two, section 11 of the CB550 manual hosted here at sohc4.net seems to show disassembly of the same or similar carbs. Are these instructions applicable?
Yes.
How far do I need to (or should I) tear them down for cleaning?
Do I need to separate each of the carbs from the rack?
For function, you just need to remove any fuel deposits inside the carbs. You can see most of it right there in the fuel bowls. The internal passageways are any more accessible when the carbs are separated. You still need the withdraw the mains emulsion tubes for cleaning, and clean then "prove" the pilot/slow/idle passages. If you wish to polish the carb body externally, you will need to separate the carbs.
Are there any screws/settings I should avoid disrupting?
To what end?
I think taking out the choke plates is a waste of time, plus those screws are staked. Re-staking them risks bending the choke shaft. Further there is a spring and ball bearing behind the choke lever that is adept at finding the most inaccessible area of your shop/work area.
You'll probably have to press out the mains emulsion tube from where the slide sits, which means removing the slides, and for some much cursing/whining. The emulsion tube end you press on is also the needle jet orifice, do care has to be taken not to distort it via draconian means.
Removing the slides means you will have to vacuum sync the carbs afterwards.
Do yourself a favor and ignore the drill bit bench sync method. Instead use a light in the carb bore, close the idle screw until you get a slide to touch the bore base, then adjust the other three to just shut light off of each carb in turn. That's my bench sync. And you still have to vacuum sync the carbs after the bike is running with either method.
If I order carb rebuild kits for a '76 CB550K am I going to get the right parts?
Depends on the source. From honda - yes.
From after-market, you rely on the company integrity and their commitment and investment into quality control and satisfied customers rather than max profit in their pocket. There have been threads where the proper engine operation has been restored by switching internal components BACK to stock Honda after using after-market. Others haven't noticed any run issues with after-market carb parts.
Unless you have corrosion issues inside the carbs, all internal metal can be reused after proper cleaning. It's just the rubber bits that need replacing. And Honda sells a kit that does just that.
Happy wrenching!
