Topic: Need help with a stiff throttle

[stresssolutions]

I had a problem somewhat like this, both with the old single cable, as well as with both new cables.  I didn't have them routed thru the tank properly.  Carbs would snap shut with tank off, but with tank on, they'd come closed very slowly.  All aspects of routing can affect the cables, I guess.

[MCRider]

Good point. Trial and error to get it just right. Sometimes a too tight zip tie can put just enough pressure to cause it to bind.

[LBM 550F]

Like Bodi said earlier, make sure the cables are not adjusted too tight, you need to see the cable move in its opening cam at the carb rack when wiggling your throttle a bit. it goes to a drag sensation real easy when slightly overtightened. I would have to add to this to remove any greese from the throttle plastic tube to the handlebar as this can cause a drag feeling And most important is to make sure your grip is not pushed on too far over this plastic sleeve. my aftermarker euro bar protruded slightly past the new honda plastic sleeve I reciently installed and the new honda grip when pushed on acted like a brake against the handle bar (inside the grip)  pull your grip back off a 1/8 inch or so to test. good luck...L

[IHWillys]

...
I'm perfectly OK with not running one, but, geez, admitting it is like jumping headfirst into an oil thread!   

Well, my Yamahas never had two throttle cables so I don't feel so "dirty" with only one cable on and have no problem with admitting this fact, hehe.

MCRider, you and I are on the same page here and A/B cable is easier nomenclature so...  as MCRider stated, get the "unnecessary" stuff like B cable, grip, routing ties) off the throttle system first.  Then get it working properly before putting things back on.  Check for proper operation after adjusting, each item is put back on or cable routing is changed.

The CB550F I have currently had a throttle that wouldn't even move when I got it and I replaced no parts in repairing it, though I readily admit to removing the B cable as part of the repair, hehe.

Ken

[Really?]

I didn't even know which was push and pull.  Needed to know to order a new cable from Motion Pro (arrived yesterday).  Searched the forum for the answer.  Then I look at BB's fiche and see it referred to A and B.  So, which was what was an education for me this week.

Throttle sleeve should be soon.

Saving this project for tomorrow.  I had to clean the house real good and do a lot of touch up painting for some house showings yesterday and today (My house is up for sale).  My three kids sure know how to mark walls and put a black ring around the house when they rub there hands on the walls.  It is a pain in the arse to keep the house staged, been doing it for 10 months now.

[Really?]

Here is my update so far.

• Removed the bar clamp mirror - no change
• Trimmed the grip - helped some but no where near enough
• Removed the B cable at the carb rack - helped some but no where near enough
• Lubed the linkage at the carbs - no change
• Loosened the bars that lift the sliders to center them to the sliders (they looked as if they were all the way to one side) - this may have helped some but no where near enough
• Removed the rings on the sliders, lifted the sliders and sprayed some Seafoam Creep around the sliders - Now they snap back.

It still feels like like there is a little drag where the needle goes into the hole at the bottom but the carbs drop very well now.  They dropped fine when I put them back together originally, maybe they needed lubed???  Thought the fuel flowing through would do this for me.

It is not back together yet, Motion pro cable came in and the throttle sleeve is supposed to be here in a few hours if my mail person does not have ANOTHER dyslexic day.  I did notice that there is a piece missing from the Motion Pro cable when compared to the one taken off.  Will this still work?  Do I need to cut the other one off and have more fun getting it hooked up at the linkage?  Or is this normal from Motion Pro for the B cable?

The piece I am talking about is the one between the nut and sheath end as pictured below.

[Really?]

Well, put it together without that piece and it worked.  Started her up and it was working as expected.  Then it started to run like krap.  It wouldn't run without the choke and the throttle is sticky again.

The PO said that the PO lined the tank.  So, I look in and it is a dark transparent brownish color.  I stick my fingers in and feel around the top of the tank and this stuff is hanging off in large chunks and just falling apart.  I wonder if it is kinda melting and that is what that sticky stuff in carbs were to begin with,

I guess I need to get that por 15 kit, strip and line the tank and then clean out the carbs again.

[Really?]

Is this the Por-15 kit I will need?


http://www.por15.com/HD-CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/HDCTRK/

[Really?]

Now it is not sticky, lol.  It ran fine then started act a little sticky and ran like crap again.  I am guessing it is a coincidence.  The fuel is getting low in the tank and the pieces of tank liner might be blocking the fuel at the petcock.  I guess I can try cleaning it out and filling it back up for th emean time.

This first real tank of gas is Shell Super, prior to that was prolly the cheap Racetrack (gas station chain) type cheap gas.  I know that Shell stuff cleans real well (keeps my Yammie V4 carbs clean).  Wonder if that is what is peeling a shoddy job from two POs ago.

[Really?]

bump

[SOHC4ever]

Here is my update so far.

• Removed the rings on the sliders, lifted the sliders and sprayed some Seafoam Creep around the sliders - Now they snap back.

It still feels like like there is a little drag where the needle goes into the hole at the bottom but the carbs drop very well now.  They dropped fine when I put them back together originally, maybe they needed lubed???  Thought the fuel flowing through would do this for me.

OK, I'm experiencing a similar problem (as detailed above), and after removing the cable linkage, it appears as though the slides are hanging up just below 1/4 throttle. By "remove the rings on the sliders" I assume that you mean you unscrewed the tops of the carbs. Did you have to take the carbs off of the bike for this operation?

As for poor running after having fiddled w/ the slides & carb tops, I theorize that you have brought your carbs out of sync and must now re-sync them with a vacuum gauge.

[Really?]

I need to get a carbtune anyway.  I have borrowed in the past.  I see Z1 has them, just need to figure out what adapters to get.

Yea, I fiddled with the two bars at the top just not the nuts on the top of the sliders.  No, did not remove the carbs to take off the rings, just unscrewed them and lifted them up and around the arm that opens them.

I still gotta clean and reseal that tank though.