Topic: CB750 f refurb with rickman fairing

[chips1953]

Hi
I've spent 16 hours up to now looking around the SOHC web and forums and I'm very impressed. Lucky for me that I bought what I think is a Japanese import, that is a 1975 f super sport, and that I found SOHC. The problem is that there are so many ideas and inspiring machines that you people have created that what I was going to do is out the window.
My idea was to create a machine that was sporty in the old fashioned sense, ie not a Gixer, Blade or R1, that Chris (t't wife) and I could do a little touring on. Enjoying the machine, the miles and the adventure.
So I picked up some sexy parts from Ebay again and decided to put some fairing on, rear sets and of course change the bars.
Got the bike from Ebay with frozen front brake and erratic running, which meant it was turning over and would be challenge to get of the van.
This is only my second post so I'll see if it works before I try the photos tonight.

[chips1953]

Here is a photo of the fairing temp fitted to adjust the bars.

[chips1953]

 
Wow that worked, photo and all.
I've sprayed the fairing with cans from www.rsbikepaint.co.uk
It's Antares Candy Red. IT's the first effort. Not impressed with the colour, it seems it's done by eye, adding colour as you with more coats.
From the previous post did anyone notice the red light in the top yoke nut? The cabling doesn't look like an addition, is it a Japanese feature, I wonder?
The Gold Honda sticker isn't square either.
Never mind I'll sort that.

[chips1953]

 
Sorry wrong photo

[chips1953]

The bars are from a Laverda with Brevettato inscribed on them, and are fully adjustable. I was lucky enough to pick a donor bike with them on, together with some Reed Titan Rear sets.

[chips1953]

The photo with the view of the rear of the bike was taken to show the original sticker in Japanese stating Helmet Holder, I think.
The rear brake fluid cap is also in Japanese, I think proving that it's an import.

[chips1953]

The first thing once the bike arrived was to see if it did turn over. Ignition on, choke on and start yes! but rough.......
So what to do, must be fuel because it's been standing since 1981. Looked on the web about where to start and found SOHC.
Located threads about cleaning carbs and found new phrases about "Green Stuff" that's good for carbs.
I got hold of a guide from the States by Mike Nixon and started on the strip down. Got the new gaskets from Dave Silver, not cheap, 15 quid a set.
The guide is good, did just what it said and used carb cleaner instead of Soylent Green. Locked them up and set them up. New fuel, new filter and wow runs really well after a little adjustment. Then same as before, really rough........
Took the carbs off and then the bowls, what's this black stuff, looks like rubber bits. New pipe with bits in it, or was it when I cut the pipe. Oh well back together again and yes going well now. Got the pods from the far east, but am worried that they may make the carbs too lean, so will look when I start to use the bike. May be some time.

[chips1953]

The latest thing is that I taken the forks off the donor bike as the seal are shot on Red one. The seals are covered in rust on the donor one and I can't undo the bolts in the bottom of the forks. Will I need to drill them out? Or is there another way?

[andy750]

From the previous post did anyone notice the red light in the top yoke nut? The cabling doesn't look like an addition, is it a Japanese feature, I wonder?

Its a speed indicator. I saw one last week on a CB750 here in Nagoya, Japan. Once you get passed a certain speed it will flash -cool eh!?

Nice fairing!

cheers
Andy

[chips1953]

 
Thanks Andy
I wouldn't have guessed that in a million years!!!
I wonder if it's adjustable, Ton up light.

Cheers

[HondaCB400F]

Did you ever get the paint to match?  I LOVE Candy Antares Red - have 3 '77 CB400F's with that color and would really like to find a match.

Good luck with your project, you will definitely enjoy it and that's a nice looking bike already.

Craig

[chips1953]

Hi Craig
The way it works is that you have a base coat, which is basically silver, that gives it the candy glow. Than you keep adding thin coats of a coloured lacquer which is the red, until you've matched the colour with the original, if you had an original. Then spray with a clear lacquer. This is what is supposed to happen and I dare say if I was a professional sprayer then mine may be near.

I've just stripped another little goodie that the donor had on it, a Dunstall Decibel silencer/muffler.

And here is Mr Donor, not happy being kept hostage in the back of the garage. Looks better than he is, but will be reincarnated when I've learnt how to do it.

[chips1953]

The brake on the front was locked on almost solid. The fluid had leaked past the seal, past the cylinder and become like a solid yellow scab on the caliper. I soaked it in parafin, but it wouldn't shift, but there is a bolt on the back of the caliper which I undid and used a punch and hammer to force out the cylinder. I notice that on the donor bike the bolt is not there, so how would I have released that one if it's the same?
When I'd got it apart I used a metal tooth picker to clean out the seal slot and a light brush with wire wool on the rest of it. Got a seal and put it back together. Bled the brake with new fluid and away we go. Rode it up and down the lane, not bad.
How easy was that I thought!
So what's left to do.
Fork seals.
Head stock bearings
Rear brake.
replace brake hoses
check the timing
valve clearences, never done that before

I really love this machine, so far

[chips1953]

The clutch lever and left hand side switch unit has been changed for a 2008 cbr1000 fireblade and the front brake lever and switch unit is off a cbr600, I think.
Is it possible to get flexible stainless steel to fit the front master cylinder and to connect to the original caliper? Does anybody know where from?

[HondaCB400F]

Do your valves "by the book" and they are just as easy as the points.  They take a little longer but it's not hard at all.  You may want to buy an extra set of feeler gauges and take them apart, then put a little bend in the correct sizes.  That way you'll get the proper feel of the clearance without having the feeler gauge in a bind which can lead you in the wrong direction.

Funny, I haven't done that for YEARS but suddenly remembered when you mentioned it.  Man, I'm getting old......

Craig

[chips1953]

Cheers Craig

When you have someone saying it's easy it does help.
Getting the forks stripped is something I've putting off, but once you make a start it should fall into place.
The threads on this site I've read, but I'll also write my own then I may understand what I'm doing.

[chips1953]

The internals of the Decibel have gone to have the fixings welded and should be back within the week, meanwhile I have to strip the fairing and remove the forks so that I can fit the seals.

[andy750]

When you strip the fairing can you take some photos of the attachment points for the fairing. I am curious to see how it goes together.

Thanks!
Andy

[chips1953]

Hi Andy

OK will do.
The fairing is attached at the front via a clamp that uses 'J' bolts to secure it to the rear of the steering post, as seen in the first 2 pics.
The sides are attached via the engine mounting bolts above the foot rest bolts as shown in the next 2 pics.
The head light and clocks are attached via a massively built structure that is more than powder coated, it's got a plastic finish.
When I remove the fairing I'll get a shot of the clocks and head light structure.

[andy750]

Excellent photos! Thank you very much!

Good luck
Andy

[chips1953]

Success so far with the front forks from the donor bike. Followed a thread from SOHC about how to re seal forks and used my battery drill and loads of WD40 to remove the bolts in the bottom of the forks.
The oil looks like the colour of Shrek's personal fluid and smells pretty bad as well, a sort of light aluminium green colour, I guess it's been in there for 35 years.
I should be able to hoist the front of the bike up, remove the wheel and drop the forks, replacing them with these from the donor bike.
Have to fit the seals first.
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm
The way to really do the job............................................

[chips1953]

So looking at the stuff that is out there I am wanting to paint the fork legs black, what is the recommended paint for the job, some sort of tuff stuff seems to the way to do it?
 
If anybody has an idea please pass it along.

[beta1042]

Can I also ask a question, could you measure the distance of how far forward the front of the headlight is from the steering column?  I'm trying to design a front fairing for my bike, similar to the rickman fairings.  Thanks.

EDIT: Ok, found some great info here:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=47027.0

[chips1953]

Yes..... That's good.
My bracket has had to be modified to allow it fit behind the steering stops, this has increased the turning circle when slow maneuvering, but has allowed me adjust the bars so that they don't catch on the fairing.
I have taken a picture for you, but you may not need it now.
The latest is that I've polished and sprayed the fork legs black, changed the oil seals and added stainless fixings, also I've picked up a bike lifter from Ebay and so now will change the forks over and then fit the cabling back together and refit the fairing.

[chips1953]

Finally got some time yesterday to clean out the garage and set up the bike on my new lifter, it works!
Got the bike jacked up and put some axle stands under the rear sprocket and the rear disc, just in case the whole thing became unbalanced when I removed the forks, front wheel and brake etc.
Disconnected the speedo cable and the loosened the pinch bolts, quick tap with a block of wood and they whole thing slid out.
All of this is so much easier when you can get your hands on some kit.
There is a picky of the old forks removed and a couple of the new installed forks.
Checked out sohc last night looking for replacement stainless braided hoses, and sent a couple of questions to people about delivery, hope to get some feedback today.
Just love my lifter, don't have to kneel down and pray to the god of motorcycles anymore, I can sit and talk to him.

[chips1953]

Received a package from Salt Lake city today with a second caliper and arm for the dual disc setup. I've ordered some high tensile bolts, which will here tomorrow.
I'll get some photos on when I've got it together.

[chips1953]

Having a problem getting brake lines made for a dual disc conversion on the bike. 750 F 1975.
Have tried through Goodridge but they are not happy to do it as I've asked for flexible to the Caliper.
Posted a question to SS in the forum, but he didn't reply last time I asked.
Can anyone come up with a solution.
Thanks.

[GoatBaSS]

Measure your length and give yourself a bit of wiggle room and go to spieglers website. I called them a few years back late one friday night had the lines that teusday. They will talk you through it to make sure what you are looking for. A double length bolt is what you will need whereever you think the lines meet junction. I used a 90 degree bend where it met the caliper and it looks sharp and works well. I did order them a bit to long but that was my bad. They were at AMA/Barbers this year and had a great deal of very nice products. I am a huge fan and would reccomend them over anyone else.

[chips1953]

 
Thanks for the info....
I've gone with SS on the forum, so he'll know what I'm talking about.
Once again thanks for the replies.
 
Got the bolts for the twin disc setup now, and they have slightly less height on the bolt tops, so may fit without shaving them.
I'll let you know how I geton.
Had to buy 50 off,high tensile at the length required, so if anybody needs any, I've a few spare.
 
Here is a photo of all the parts I need to do the job except the cut down Drive for the speedo.
At least they only cost me 16p each, so if If I can find a good home for some of them. Let me know.

[chips1953]

I am proceeding with the rebuild of the forks to allow for a twin disc front end, and I want to remove the original fender/mudguard and replace it with a glass fibre or cafe racer plastic one. The question is has anybody done this and can I get a fork brace to replace the original steel guard with? It must have some connecting strength for the forks.
Also the 110mm bolts do not allow the original nuts to wind down enough to show thread through. Anybody had this problem before?

[chips1953]

So I finished the bike and took it down the A6 from Carlisle to Stafford for the Stafford show, parked up at the Hotel and some bloke in a Jag reversed into it.
She ran like a dream, smooth but so painful to ride, those rear sets I've fitted 'Reed Titan' cripple my knees.
Here are some photos before the damage in the hotel car park.

[andy750]

Beautiful bike and love the fairing! What is the damage?

Andy

[chips1953]

Here are the shots of the fairing, screen, and muffler, that took most of the damage. It's not too bad, but the bloke asked why I parked where I had, good job I wasn't in a wheel chair.
Insurance has coughed up so I have made a start on the fairing and ordered the screen.
Thing is I know she is not worth as much as the K series bikes, but it's more of my era and now I've done so much I really like this bike to look at and to ride.

[andy750]

Thats too bad for the fairing which is very very nice. What are you doing with the old fairing? Plan to sell? Id be interested but I think shipping to Boston, MA would be high.

good luck getting it sorted. I used to have an F2 and it was a great bike!

cheers
Andy

[chips1953]

I have a new screen on order but I have started to repair the fairing with fibreglass and resin, then comes the respray.
Thanks Andy