Author Topic: Looking to run a Fram Sidemount Oil Filter on my CB --> In need of direction....  (Read 5513 times)

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Offline TwoTired

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I just now finished reading this whole thread from the beginning.

Your original post mentioned putting the remote filter in the return line from engine to oil tank.  I hope you have abandoned this approach.  The CB750 has a scavenge pump feeding this line and there will be lots of air in this return line.  An oil filter there will get blown full of air.

The oil pressure pump feeds the front oil filter, tap off of this line for remote filter use.

There have been tests to show that the relief and bypass valves in the FRAM oil filters have very poor quality control and leak most of the time.  This bypasses the filter element and negates much of any filtering action it might provide.  If you are going to use a spin on, use a different brand to retain good filtering action.  Try to find one that isn't just a FRAM filter design rebranded with a different label.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Einyodeler

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1972 CB500 - 1973 CB500 - 1974 CB550K - 1975 CB550F - 1975 CB750F - 1976 CJ360 - 1983 CR480 - 1970 BSA A65T Thunderbolt



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Offline ProTeal55

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TWOTIRED ------>

Thanks for the info. I have switched from using the stock return line Idea , to something along the lines of replacing the
stock filter , with a side mounted unit, via some adapters and -AN lines. I have sourced the one adapter from the Cycle exchange , now in process of finding an adapter to go from that , to -AN lines.....and then on to the actuall filter...

So you are pretty sure that , If i stick with the current idea , I will have no issues of flow , or damage to the motor ?
The stock pressure pump will be able to push the oil back to the filter , near the rear tire , thru the filter , and then back into the
motor with no long term efects ?

I would think , as long as their is enough oil in the lines , the pump doesnt know if it is pushing thru a foot of lines , or 10 feet.
« Last Edit: November 25, 2005, 10:13:49 AM by ProTeal55 »
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends

Offline TwoTired

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So you are pretty sure that , If i stick with the current idea , I will have no issues of flow , or damage to the motor ?
The stock pressure pump will be able to push the oil back to the filter , near the rear tire , thru the filter , and then back into the
motor with no long term efects ?

I would think, as long as their is enough oil in the lines , the pump doesnt know if it is pushing thru a foot of lines , or 10 feet.
The pump doesn't know, as it has a pressure relief limit.  The destination oil galley will see a pressure/volume drop.  Oil isn't there for the pump.  It's there for the engine journals, etc.  Oil will try to adhere to the internal line walls which provides resitance to movement.  The viscosity of the oil adds to the restrictive efect.  The more oil line, the more resistance.  You may have to boost the pressure relief setting to compensate for pressure loss at the destination.

It is my understanding that oil galley pressure, per se, is less important than oil galley volume. An engine is characterized during engineering to note at what pressure is indicated for the volume of oil moved through that engine.  So, if you measure the pressure of the same design engine thereafter, you can be confident the engine is getting the volume of oil needed to lubricate the important bits.  The important pressure point to measure will be at the point of entry to the engine galley, not the point of output of the pump.

  Large diameter hardwall lines will reduce resistance to flow and pressure loss.
The laws of fluid dynamics apply.  Larger lines will offer less resitance to flow than smaller diameter lines.  Hard lines maintain pressure better than soft lines.  You can expect a pressure drop and decreased volume flow through longer lines.  Though, I'm not sure how much.   Short is better.   Definately use a multivis oil that will flow well when cold.

 Something else I thought about is the oil temp.  Long lines can have a cooling effect.  What concerns me is condensation in tank and lines not getting heated enough to boil off.  Dino oil and water form amino acids which will slowly eat metal.  This would be a long term detrimental effect.  Probably the only way to have peace of mind is to instrument the new plumbing for temperature and pressure where it is being delivered to the engine.  Temporary instumentation will teach you the new system behavior, if permanent instrumentation doesn't fit with your apearance goals.

Hope this helps...

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline ProTeal55

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Allot of info , but it does make allot of sense..
Thanks for the effort to help.

Like I have said , the last thing I want is to destroy the motor on the bike. One of the main reasons
I like the CB so much is that it is reliable , and dependable, and I don't want to have that change..
If I want to ride a bike , and have it break down on me , I will ride my HD.
The more and more I think about it , this might be a good way to blow my motor up , or cause
premature failure. Looks to me as their are allot more negative things that would/are going to happen
with this mod than positive.... >:(

Maybe I will just go with the spin-in HD filter . Maybe I will just leave the bike
the way it is , but what fun is that...? ???
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends

Buffo

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The filtering system on these bikes is pretty good. And being that you should change the oil every 1000 miles I really dont see the need for another filter.

A small oil cooler wouldn't hurt but you dont want to go too crazy...the bike needs to be run at a certin opporating temperature, plus or minus so many degrees. Running your big at a cooler temp does damage too. Parts like rings, valves and oil pumps wear out quicker. I live where it is at least 90f on a daily basis and I dont need a cooler.

Buffo

Offline ProTeal55

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I know how cold blooded these bikes are , thus I really am not in the market for a cooler.
Chicago's "summer" lasts for about two weeks....

I think I am gonna give up on this idea for the time being. I printed out all the great info I recieved
on this board , and others , so one day I can continue my research If I choose...

I still might put the fram on the back , just for good measure..... ;D
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends