Topic: Fitting bearings back on transmission??

[odin836]

In the process of putting new bearings back on the transmission.

Any tips for putting the bearings back on?

Currently wanting to install replacement bearings in the photo below.
I have a 4" bearing puller which I used for removal, now how to they get back on???
(Probably a stupid question that I will only ever ask once...)

[mick7504]

They will tap on quite easily.
They are only an interferance fit not a press fit which makes it easy.
Only put pressure on the inner race when installing.
You could use a socket on the outer bearing (inner race) and maybe a short length of tube for the other one.
A smear of oil will also help them go on.
Providing you go steady steady you won't have a problem.
If you feel the need to use force it is an indication that the bearing has "skewed" a bit on the shaft.
Take it off and try again.
It's pretty easy - Care and patience is the trick.

[odin836]

Really??

Also got the one in the left of the initial photo (with arrows) on with gentle tapping and a socket as suggested.  The one to the right in the inital photo was a royal pain in the arse to get off with a 3 arm bearing puller...

The part supplied by Honda to replace it was: 96100-6204000.
The new bearing is stamped 6205NX3C3.

Are these the correct numbers?
It seems awful tight!

I've managed to get the some of the others back on OK with no major issue, as mentioned they went on easy (photo below).  

[mick7504]

They are a neat fit but don't require a whole heap of grunt and flogging put them on.
They can be firm to remove but it doesn't take much to cock them either way which will cause them to lock on.
I think a better way to remove them is with one of these (see pic) and a brass drift to drive the shaft through the bearing. (The adjustable jaws)
They have to go on dead straight and if they start kicking side ways a bit they will be as tight as hell all of the way.
You have to "feel" the bearing going on - no unnecessary force or it will be a fight to the end.

[odin836]

Still not happy with how things are going...

I'll see if a transmission repairer has a few minutes spare tomorrow.
Fingers crossed free of charge...

I'll their opinion on if its too tight, keeping in mind they interference fit (a newly learned term).  I'm sure they'll have it back on in a matter of minutes with the right tools.

Will update again tomorrow with hopfully a fitted bearing!

Thanks for your assistance thus far Mick!

[mick7504]

You'll beat it mate.
The first rebuild is the learning one.
The second time around is a lot easier.
You'll do it with a blindfold on - no worries 

[bucky katt]

i invested 69 dollars in a cheap 12 ton press from hormier. works great for pressing bearings on and off.

[mick7504]

i invested 69 dollars in a cheap 12 ton press from hormier. works great for pressing bearings on and off.

Did the same thing myself mate.
They are a handy thing to have and for under 100 bucks it isn't too bad.
Used the improvised method for a long time before that though and I think this is where Odin836 is with his at the moment.
He'll get in the end.
Mick

[Bodi]

The numbers do look odd.
6205NX3C3 means a #6205 standard bearing size, NX3 describes the groove, and C3 is the tolerance grade. The 6205 has a 25mm bore, 52mm outer diameter, and is 15mm thick. You can measure the shaft and case bore sizes to confirm it's correct.
The other part number has a 6204 in it, and sometimes Honda incorporates standard part numbers into their internal part codes. But - a 6204 is quite a bit smaller than a 6205 so I really doubt that it's really a 6204. The 6204 has a 20mm bore, and would be obviously small and besides the 6205 would be crazy big on the shaft if a 6204 was required.... not tight as you've found.
Manufacturing tolerances mean a snug fit may become a very tight fit on some shafts (ball bearing bores are generally very close to perfect size). It's normal in a factory to use a press to install them - using a press pushing only on the inner race is the correct way to install such a bearing to avoid damage. The press tooling is made to keep the bearing dead square to the shaft as well, avoiding any cocking that will cause the race to bind on the shaft.
If the fit is insanely tight you can dress the shaft with a fine India oilstone to remove any high spots and reduce the diameter a few tenths of a thou. Don't use anything that removes appreciable amounts of metal, the bearing must be fairly tight on the shaft.

[w1sa]

Another method that I've used, is the heat and chill process.

If you're sure the bearing is correct and you know it's going to be a tightish fit, put the shaft assembly in the freezer for a couple of hours or so and put the bearing in the oven at 100 to 120 C for 20 minutes or so, immediately before attempting the fit. Makes for a much easier fit-up.

Same applies to hubs etc where you heat the outer part and chill the inner.   

[odin836]

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions...

I did take the parts to a mechanic with a press, wanted to charge $70 AUD, at $140 I could find my own press so I declined his offer.

I then read the additional posts and tried the heat and chill process, I "think" it contributed to the bearing sliding down the long shaft (the tough one), although by the time I got to this one (saving the best till last) I'd got the general idea.

I actually cut the end of an old Cylinder Stud and used it as punch, then carefully tapped around the bearing keeping the Stud only on the inner race, it was a slow process but slid down easy enough.

Combine the chill with some assembly lube and look what i am left with. 


My next question concerns the Final Drive.

Looking at the parts that have come off the bike and the parts in the image in the manual I am a little concerned about two things.

1.Part number 1, in my case is larger than the our race of the bearing, is that normal?
2. My Oil Seal Kit came with two seals that look very similar, how can I tell which is intended for use here as the one removed has perished beyond recognition...

[mick7504]

Good work.
See you knew you could do it all along. 
The ring that sits in the groove will come together as a full circle when you put the cases together and acts as a back support for the seal.
I'm unfamiliar with the 2 different size seals.
You will need to determine which is the correct one by measuring them.
Physically check the ID on the shaft, check the OD in the case - sit it in one half and see how it looks (same radius) and measure the distance from the outer face of the seal back support ring to the edge of the case to determine the correct width.
The seal will generally sit relatively flush with the edge of the case when it's installed.

[w1sa]

A spec sheet I'm looking at says that seal dimension should be 25x62x7.

Is that a different dimension to the other?

[HondaMan]

My next question concerns the Final Drive.

Looking at the parts that have come off the bike and the parts in the image in the manual I am a little concerned about two things.

1.Part number 1, in my case is larger than the our race of the bearing, is that normal?
2. My Oil Seal Kit came with two seals that look very similar, how can I tell which is intended for use here as the one removed has perished beyond recognition...

Honda used 2 different bearings on the final drive. They also have differing shafts to go along with them. One bearing (the earlier one) is a single-row bearing, while the later one is a dual-row bearing. For the most part, you can tell if your cases require the dual-row bearing by looking in the countersprocket area for three 6mm bolts in the cases, sealing the area. The earlier version will have only 2 of these bolts.

The dual-row bearing uses a slightly smaller seal.